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Archive through April 15, 2012
- Thread starter jstorma
- Start date
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pfitzwater
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- Joined
- Apr 28, 2011
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- 74
- displayname
- Patrick James Fitzwater
alright, so I got the shaft out of my 128. those roll pins where easer then Ithoguht once Igot a big enough hammer. I thought I was on a roll untill I tried getting the pins out that hold the main spring in. Seems the one has been painted in. And they are not budgeing. I'm letting some PB Blaster soak on it. Here are some pictures of the bearing so far. I'm hopeing from the looks of it that the bearing is the only thing that has gone out.
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
mfrade
Well-known member
Well.. after all these years of not payin' attention to anything hydro.. I've finally slipped over to the dark side and dragged home a (GASP) 169. Thanks Hydro Harry!
TRISTAN - You have to have some clearance between the T/O bearing and the clutch lever. The T/O bearing is a sealed ungreasable bearing that will only run so long. The clearance between the bearing & clutch lever is noted in the operator's manual, but the free pedal distance in the op's manual does the same thing.
Go ahead and replace the lever mounting bracket or whatever you have to do to get the clearance required. The T/O bearing I bought last summer was $50 so you don't want to replace them very often.
I'm sure MWSC knows how their clutches work, they may just not know how YOUR CC works.
Go ahead and replace the lever mounting bracket or whatever you have to do to get the clearance required. The T/O bearing I bought last summer was $50 so you don't want to replace them very often.
I'm sure MWSC knows how their clutches work, they may just not know how YOUR CC works.
kphill
Well-known member
Nice 169 Mike!...You will be glad you bought it!!
OK, so I was heading to the garden to plow with the 1250 and this fell out from underneath.
Anyone haver a Idea where it came from??
I'm pretty new to these tractors after having just downsized from a W900L Kenworth and 40 years on the road.
Thanks!
Dave Schwandt
Anyone haver a Idea where it came from??
I'm pretty new to these tractors after having just downsized from a W900L Kenworth and 40 years on the road.
Thanks!
Dave Schwandt
forgot to add that it is 1.5" long X 1"OD x .75"OD
kphill
Well-known member
Looks like one of the springs that hold the grille on..
Charlie was here!
Charlie was here!
mgwin
Well-known member
UH OH, Patrick didn't hit the enter button between the pics! Here comes Charlie!
mgwin
Well-known member
Patrick,
Be careful taking those last pins out, the main spring has a lot of pressure on it! That is probably why they are so hard to drive out. Grind off the end of the pins that are mushroomed and they will come out easier. You can buy new roll pins to replace the old ones.
My first cub was/is a 128. I totally rebuilt everything but the engine and tranny.
Be careful taking those last pins out, the main spring has a lot of pressure on it! That is probably why they are so hard to drive out. Grind off the end of the pins that are mushroomed and they will come out easier. You can buy new roll pins to replace the old ones.
I've been busy with the engine transplant into the 129 this weekend. Wednesday I got the block from the 125 back from the machine shop, and built it up yesterday, to the point that I had it painted. Things went together well, the usual issues with dings on the crankshaft and finding everything, one thing I did was to install studs to make it easier to remove the muffler cover without having to disturb the head bolts by installing studs. With the head bolts in, but not tightend, I found that configuration didn't work with the tall head bolt bosses on the 125's head. Using the blower housing from the 125 gave me an issue with mounting the coil, as one of the mounting bolts was missing. I decided to sleep on it,
Today I hit it again. After contemplating things while doing some light work in the vineyard this morning, I decided to use a self tapping screw to deal with the coil mounting problem, but for the head, I decided to use the head off the 129 engine, which was also in pretty good shape, and is stud friendly. With the motor configured the way I wanted it, it was time to pull the motor from the 129. Once the motor was out, I noticed that the bronze PTO wear button was badly worn, likely due to a torn up mating button. The fiber button on the 125 was barely worn, and since I was using the 125 PTO clutch, I decided to carefully liberate it from the 125 chassis. Liberating the bronze button from the 129 was a whole different story, and included drills, a dremel, and a whole lot of hammering and heating. As darkness fell I was finally ready to drop the newly rebuilt engine in. I got the new engine in the chassis, and the old engine on the stand for its teardown, and decided to call it a night. A couple more hours work and I should be ready to try her out. With what I have laying around, I might be able to put a decent 10 horse motor together with a good block/piston/crankshaft, using some parts from the 12 horse 129 motor to make the 125 a viable backup tractor for me.
Today I hit it again. After contemplating things while doing some light work in the vineyard this morning, I decided to use a self tapping screw to deal with the coil mounting problem, but for the head, I decided to use the head off the 129 engine, which was also in pretty good shape, and is stud friendly. With the motor configured the way I wanted it, it was time to pull the motor from the 129. Once the motor was out, I noticed that the bronze PTO wear button was badly worn, likely due to a torn up mating button. The fiber button on the 125 was barely worn, and since I was using the 125 PTO clutch, I decided to carefully liberate it from the 125 chassis. Liberating the bronze button from the 129 was a whole different story, and included drills, a dremel, and a whole lot of hammering and heating. As darkness fell I was finally ready to drop the newly rebuilt engine in. I got the new engine in the chassis, and the old engine on the stand for its teardown, and decided to call it a night. A couple more hours work and I should be ready to try her out. With what I have laying around, I might be able to put a decent 10 horse motor together with a good block/piston/crankshaft, using some parts from the 12 horse 129 motor to make the 125 a viable backup tractor for me.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Mike F - that's a really nice looking 169 resto candidate. Even the decals look good enough to retain. You're gonna love the Hydro.
Patrick F - from the looks of the pic you are following the service manual instructions and putting some additional pressure on the large spring using the vice to hold it. Once you have the pressure off the roll pin and between the vice and the spring, then torque down on your vice handle to really keep that drive shaft from moving. If you used a BE Hammer when you had the drive shaft still in the tractor then get yourself a Really BE Hammer, make sure there are no burr edges on the roll pin and give it the big hit with a good pumch. Once you have it moved a little make sure it didn't mushroom and it should take lighter blows to move it. You might even have to retorque your vice handle.
Marty G - where's Charlie when you need him!!! Probably have to wait for Kraig to pop in on Monday now, and fix the pics.
David S - I'm pretty certain that is not an OEM spring for a 1250. It's to strong a spring to be for holding the grill on with as Kevin showed in a pic. I don't know how it could fit under the seat to provide additional support either but you could look to see since there would likely be 2 of them. How did the tractor drive after you noticed this??? I'm wondering if someon jury-rigged the hydro trunion with this type of spring. That's a real stretch to be used there, but you never know. If it was and fell out I have no idea how the hydro control would work if at all - it may just really lurch forward or backward. Does the brake pedal still return to the full up/off position? I don't know how it could be used but that's about the only other thing that gets a spring.
Bruce N - sounds like things are coming along. No need to rush and just end up with a problem. Keep us informed.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(and sometimes their springs get mixed up)
Patrick F - from the looks of the pic you are following the service manual instructions and putting some additional pressure on the large spring using the vice to hold it. Once you have the pressure off the roll pin and between the vice and the spring, then torque down on your vice handle to really keep that drive shaft from moving. If you used a BE Hammer when you had the drive shaft still in the tractor then get yourself a Really BE Hammer, make sure there are no burr edges on the roll pin and give it the big hit with a good pumch. Once you have it moved a little make sure it didn't mushroom and it should take lighter blows to move it. You might even have to retorque your vice handle.
Marty G - where's Charlie when you need him!!! Probably have to wait for Kraig to pop in on Monday now, and fix the pics.
David S - I'm pretty certain that is not an OEM spring for a 1250. It's to strong a spring to be for holding the grill on with as Kevin showed in a pic. I don't know how it could fit under the seat to provide additional support either but you could look to see since there would likely be 2 of them. How did the tractor drive after you noticed this??? I'm wondering if someon jury-rigged the hydro trunion with this type of spring. That's a real stretch to be used there, but you never know. If it was and fell out I have no idea how the hydro control would work if at all - it may just really lurch forward or backward. Does the brake pedal still return to the full up/off position? I don't know how it could be used but that's about the only other thing that gets a spring.
Bruce N - sounds like things are coming along. No need to rush and just end up with a problem. Keep us informed.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(and sometimes their springs get mixed up)
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Ok, opinions. Needed here. The KT 17 sr.1 in my 782 is showing it's age. To stay ahead of the game I'm looking to gather parts to repair or replace it. Here are the 3 options I have:
1: use the jugs I have from a parts kt17 and have it machined rebuild the current engine.
2: there is a Mag 18 locally available for roughly $400 (it actually comes with the whole tractor) but it has 832 hrs on the meter. That's likely more than my current KT. It will likely need the same rebuild which will double the bill.
3: there is a 3000 series CCC also local that has a command 20 in it. $750 for the whole tractor and it has electrical issues. Does a Com 20 even "bolt in" a 782 or is it a lot of fab work? Obviously this is way more expensive than the othe options.
Keeping cost in mind, what would you do? Is the KT17 worth fixing? I don't mow any major hills and it has done a great job for 31 years.
Fire away boys...
1: use the jugs I have from a parts kt17 and have it machined rebuild the current engine.
2: there is a Mag 18 locally available for roughly $400 (it actually comes with the whole tractor) but it has 832 hrs on the meter. That's likely more than my current KT. It will likely need the same rebuild which will double the bill.
3: there is a 3000 series CCC also local that has a command 20 in it. $750 for the whole tractor and it has electrical issues. Does a Com 20 even "bolt in" a 782 or is it a lot of fab work? Obviously this is way more expensive than the othe options.
Keeping cost in mind, what would you do? Is the KT17 worth fixing? I don't mow any major hills and it has done a great job for 31 years.
Fire away boys...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Nic B - I'm not a twin cylinder guy at all, never had one but always thought about it. I'd like to see a reply from Steve B - "Mr. Plow". I believe he's done several of these. Couple things I would add tho. It has been my understanding that Kohlers should be good for 2000 hours of use if maintained properly, and at 832hrs that Mag 18 should just be broken in good. But that also makes me wonder about your KT17 and what symptoms it's showing. Overall I definitely lean in the direction of the Mag 18. It's a well proven engine and the KT17 Series I is a known problem waiting to happen. Also, if the Mag 18 comes with the rest of the tractor wrapped around it, then you've got alot of spares - or you could even just swap your engine into it and sell it off.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and some parts do get interchanged)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and some parts do get interchanged)
Well, thanks to Charlie for his parts and advice I am a member of the IH tillers club...finally. I have been dragging my feet a little but it's now up and working. I thought the pto on the 1650 was going to need some attention but there was a spiders nest in the fuse (?). I got it all together and tore up some ground. All I need now is a little rain to soften things up.
Ya'll might not remember but I got a lot of feedback from here through the process and I thank you all.
I would post a pic but it's just a 1650 with a #1 tiller and both need paint. Maybe sometime...I have a garden to install. If the old lady gets back from the store (she's been gone 38 years) with my cigarettes (quit many years ago) I'll get her to take a picture of me working the garden.
Ya'll might not remember but I got a lot of feedback from here through the process and I thank you all.
I would post a pic but it's just a 1650 with a #1 tiller and both need paint. Maybe sometime...I have a garden to install. If the old lady gets back from the store (she's been gone 38 years) with my cigarettes (quit many years ago) I'll get her to take a picture of me working the garden.
mconway
Well-known member
Bjohnson, that happened to me with my 109 when I took it to put away for the winter a while back.
That SOB was heavy to get back on the trailer!! Took me about an hour to get it off the trailer....then I medicated with a few Labbatts................
That SOB was heavy to get back on the trailer!! Took me about an hour to get it off the trailer....then I medicated with a few Labbatts................
Brian J.
The QUESTION is!
Were you on it at the time?
The QUESTION is!
Were you on it at the time?
