I know molded rubber seals are expensive, but $45 for a heat baffle seal seems exhorbant to me. Especially since it’s just a simple “U” shaped bulb seal that could fit a variety of things. I know this may be taking away from the sponsors, but has anyone found a good source for this?
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Archive through April 11, 2012
- Thread starter nbartee
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Norm B.
Got a part number you would like to share?
Got a part number you would like to share?
1450: won’t re-start/no power – any advice on troubleshooting or cause?
Yesterday I went out changed the oil in my 1450, greased the deck bearings and mowed for the first time this season. On the way back up to the garage I have to climb a short, but very steep hill that I've not had a problem making it up before. For some reason I stalled on the hill. Usually I turn the deck off before the climb - so maybe this was the issue...
Not thinking, without moving the hydro lever back to neutral, I reached down and turned the key to restart. (I did at least flip the PTO switch off) I was about midway up the hill at this point. The tractor surged forward a bit as it tried to start with the hydro still engaged and I realized the issue and let off the key. The damage was done.
Now, when I turn the key I get nothing. I checked the battery, which according to my meter is at 13volts. (I keep it on a tender) I thought it might be the starter and replaced it with another known good unit and still nothing.
I need to troubleshoot and I don’t have a good process. Could anyone provide a quick list of what I should check in what order – or a link to an existing resource/thread? Alternately, if you have a guess on what I messed up, feel free to let me know. I’d really appreciate it. It’s a real bummer to just get the tractor running and then have it go down.
Thanks!
-Calvin
Yesterday I went out changed the oil in my 1450, greased the deck bearings and mowed for the first time this season. On the way back up to the garage I have to climb a short, but very steep hill that I've not had a problem making it up before. For some reason I stalled on the hill. Usually I turn the deck off before the climb - so maybe this was the issue...
Not thinking, without moving the hydro lever back to neutral, I reached down and turned the key to restart. (I did at least flip the PTO switch off) I was about midway up the hill at this point. The tractor surged forward a bit as it tried to start with the hydro still engaged and I realized the issue and let off the key. The damage was done.
Now, when I turn the key I get nothing. I checked the battery, which according to my meter is at 13volts. (I keep it on a tender) I thought it might be the starter and replaced it with another known good unit and still nothing.
I need to troubleshoot and I don’t have a good process. Could anyone provide a quick list of what I should check in what order – or a link to an existing resource/thread? Alternately, if you have a guess on what I messed up, feel free to let me know. I’d really appreciate it. It’s a real bummer to just get the tractor running and then have it go down.
Thanks!
-Calvin
snicklas
Well-known member
Daniel Sollenberger,
Do you know if it is truly a 50C, and not a 50A. The difference between the A and C decks are:
A decks came on the wideframe 1x8/9 and Quietlines and have a 1/2" drive belt, and the front lift eyes are spaced about a foot apart, and the drive belt runs between the lift eyes.
C Decks came on the 82 series and have a 5/8" drive belt, and the front lift eyes are about 6" apart, and the drive belt runs "around" the left eye.
I currently have a 44C under my 1450, however, I swapped out the center drive pulley for the 1/2" pully (Actually swapped the entire spindle, it was easier) and moved the lift eye to the hole on the "outside" of the front mount, as my 44C had 3 holes above the roller, to fit a wideframe, and an 82 series undercarriage.
I hope this helps... if you need, I could take a picture of my deck an post it up....
Do you know if it is truly a 50C, and not a 50A. The difference between the A and C decks are:
A decks came on the wideframe 1x8/9 and Quietlines and have a 1/2" drive belt, and the front lift eyes are spaced about a foot apart, and the drive belt runs between the lift eyes.
C Decks came on the 82 series and have a 5/8" drive belt, and the front lift eyes are about 6" apart, and the drive belt runs "around" the left eye.
I currently have a 44C under my 1450, however, I swapped out the center drive pulley for the 1/2" pully (Actually swapped the entire spindle, it was easier) and moved the lift eye to the hole on the "outside" of the front mount, as my 44C had 3 holes above the roller, to fit a wideframe, and an 82 series undercarriage.
I hope this helps... if you need, I could take a picture of my deck an post it up....
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Calvin L - your problem and situation sure sounds odd. 1st, if your Hydro lever was not in the neutral position, then turning the key to start should have done nothing. I have to assume your wiring is all correct, and if so, your brake pedal needs to be depressed before the start switch will operate in the start position. If your brake pedal was depressed your Hydro lever should have returned to the neutral position. Based on the slope of the hill you were climbing your 1450 should have started to roll back down the hill shortly after power was lost, and depending on your type of brakes (internal or external) you may have stopped the rolling (at least for a while with internal brakes). If your brake pedal safety start switch is by-passed you would be able to turn key switch to start and it should activate starter whether engine is running or not. Since you replaced the starter and had no change in your problem the next thing I'd do is jumper across the solenoid. It's located under the dash, on the right side (as you sit on the tractor) and directly behind the hood support panel attached against the back of the dash. If you remove the panel you can jumper across the 2 large terminals on the solenoid but be extremely careful. One of these terminals is a live connection from the battery and jumping across will sometimes cause a spark, and this is very very close to the gas tank. I would suggest having the key turned to the run position as well so if the starter is activated your engine should also start and run. If you don't have the key turned to run it should just activate the starter. In either case if the starter activates doing this you most likely did something to your solenoid and need to replace it. When doing any of my suggestions please make sure your Hydro control lever is in the neutral position AND your brake pedal is in the locked position.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but sometimes are hard to restart)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but sometimes are hard to restart)
MIKE M. - I get a catalog from my powder coat supply company every couple months. They keep adding new colors in every catalog. I like to PC stuff because it's so durable compared to paint. Plus the equipment is cheap & easy to clean.
I saw that black chrome and never thought about using it for grills, etc on CC's. Only thing I haven't found a good match for is IH 2150 red. I heard that Eastwood's "Red Wagon" was a good match but I wasn't impressed. I might have to give it another try and add some Black Chrome to the order!
I saw that black chrome and never thought about using it for grills, etc on CC's. Only thing I haven't found a good match for is IH 2150 red. I heard that Eastwood's "Red Wagon" was a good match but I wasn't impressed. I might have to give it another try and add some Black Chrome to the order!
Hi Harry,
Thanks for the advice! The hydro safety switch was disabled by PO and I never fixed it - which is my fault and what led to my first issue, I'm sure it is hard on the tractor to have the starter surge it forward on a hill!
Anyhow, your advice is exactly the type I need! I will test and get back to you.
Also, I did roll the tractor back down the hill by pulling up the the hydro dump lever and easing off the brake until I got to flat ground - about 20 feet.
-Calvin
Thanks for the advice! The hydro safety switch was disabled by PO and I never fixed it - which is my fault and what led to my first issue, I'm sure it is hard on the tractor to have the starter surge it forward on a hill!
Anyhow, your advice is exactly the type I need! I will test and get back to you.
Also, I did roll the tractor back down the hill by pulling up the the hydro dump lever and easing off the brake until I got to flat ground - about 20 feet.
-Calvin
dsollenberger
New member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2012
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- 3
- displayname
- Daniel Sollenberger
Thanks Scott, yes the 50" deck is a 50C, and I haven't moved the deck hanger yet to the outside. Just wanting to make sure it will fit. what kind of problems will I have if I leave the 5/8 belt puley on the deck? this came off of a 1862. Thanks
snicklas
Well-known member
Daniel,
The belt will probably slip under heavy load. When I bought my tiller, it was attached to a Red CCC 782 with a blown KT17 (Imaging that). The 782 came with the tractor, #2 Tiller and mule drive, and a 44C deck and mule drive / undercarriage. I mounted the gearbox onto my 1450 straight off the 782, bought a 1/2" tiller belt, and installed the 782 mule drive. 2 things with this, 1. The 782 Mule drive makes the distance longer between the rear pulley and the PTO Pulley. On the wideframes, the bar that clips into the front quick disconnect hooks, is the same bar the pulley pivots mount to. On the 782, there are 2 pins welded in, about 1" behind the bar the pulley pivots mount to, so this pushes the mule drive pulleys toward the front of the tractor. Also, the 5/8" pulleys are a larger diameter than the 1/2" pulleys on the mule drives. So, I temporarily used the deck mule drive, so the distance was correct, but it has the angled pulleys, so that is not ideal. I had the 1/2" belt installed, and had it running to the 5/8" pulley on the tiller gearbox. Anytime I started to get a decent load on the tiller, instead of it pulling the engine down a bit, and making it bark, the belt would slip and the tiller tines would stop. In light grass, you may be ok, but if there is any force on the blades, I think it would slip. What I have ended up doing it I am using the mule drive and gearbox off Dad's 149 and everything work really well!!!
The belt will probably slip under heavy load. When I bought my tiller, it was attached to a Red CCC 782 with a blown KT17 (Imaging that). The 782 came with the tractor, #2 Tiller and mule drive, and a 44C deck and mule drive / undercarriage. I mounted the gearbox onto my 1450 straight off the 782, bought a 1/2" tiller belt, and installed the 782 mule drive. 2 things with this, 1. The 782 Mule drive makes the distance longer between the rear pulley and the PTO Pulley. On the wideframes, the bar that clips into the front quick disconnect hooks, is the same bar the pulley pivots mount to. On the 782, there are 2 pins welded in, about 1" behind the bar the pulley pivots mount to, so this pushes the mule drive pulleys toward the front of the tractor. Also, the 5/8" pulleys are a larger diameter than the 1/2" pulleys on the mule drives. So, I temporarily used the deck mule drive, so the distance was correct, but it has the angled pulleys, so that is not ideal. I had the 1/2" belt installed, and had it running to the 5/8" pulley on the tiller gearbox. Anytime I started to get a decent load on the tiller, instead of it pulling the engine down a bit, and making it bark, the belt would slip and the tiller tines would stop. In light grass, you may be ok, but if there is any force on the blades, I think it would slip. What I have ended up doing it I am using the mule drive and gearbox off Dad's 149 and everything work really well!!!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm-
Have you tried McMaster-Carr?
Have you tried McMaster-Carr?
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
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- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Wayne S - gol dang it - you're probably right again!!!!
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (switches need to be in correct positions)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (switches need to be in correct positions)
Further investigation on the belt tightening on the tiller has shown me that the mounting bracket appears to be bent somewhat allowing the right side of the tiller to be closer to the right wheel than on the left side. This also makes the belt appear to be too long since the pulleys are on the right side. I plan on removing the tiller to see if I can straighten the tiller hitch and that should allow the tightener to tighten the belt for the 1/8 inch flex at the center point.
hello everyone ... i new at this so bare with me ... i have a 1811 that i am putting a loader on and also buiding a cage for i want to paint the cage cub yellow i bought a quart of international yellow from [ van sickle ] 454 74 and unless it dries a whole lot darker then it is wet it aint much of a mach any ideas will help...
Bill B. re-posted in the CCC/MTD section.
Cadet 111?!
My wife (God has blessed me with a great one!) has caught sympathetic yellw favor. She saw a yellow tractor for sale on the side of the road and stopped to take pictures for me. It is a "Cadet" model 111. I can't find anything about them. Anyone have any info?
Thanks,
Calvin
My wife (God has blessed me with a great one!) has caught sympathetic yellw favor. She saw a yellow tractor for sale on the side of the road and stopped to take pictures for me. It is a "Cadet" model 111. I can't find anything about them. Anyone have any info?
Thanks,
Calvin
Calvin,
It is a Lawn Tractor built in 78-79.
Here is a link to some information:
http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/International_Cadet_111
It is a Lawn Tractor built in 78-79.
Here is a link to some information:
http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/International_Cadet_111
