Hello all. Have been away from the forum for years, but luckily my password still works. I have a dilemna and wonder if anyone on this forum can help. I have an old Cub 106--the body is in good shape but the paint is faded & the steering has a lot of slop. The engine smokes like crazy, but about 5 years ago, I had an extra 10 horse Kohler and had my father (a retired auto mechanic) rebuilt it. In the meantime, I moved and took the engine along with me. The cub still runs, but I keep meaning to put the rebuilt engine in it. I also have accumulated a lot of parts over the years--new clutch plate, new pto clutch plates, used creeper, used 3 point, etc. I keep trying to find the time to replace the engine, add the creeper, new clutch, rebuild the PTO, add 3point & repaint it, but just never seem to find the time as I can't retire for another 2 years. I now live in Bruceton Mills, WV (not too far from Morgantown, WV), but am up in Delaware for the next 2 weeks helping my mother after my father's death last week. I know--I could probably find a nice 106 which someone else has overhauled, but I would like to upgrade my Cub, especially since this engine is the last one my father ever worked on before his health issues. I said all that to say this--is there anyone out there who would have the time/expertise/interest to take my cub and all the parts I have & install them plus repaint it while it's apart. I'm certainly not looking for a show tractor--just a good looking, good running old Cub. I obviously would be willing to pay what is reasonable for the required work. It's been a long time, but I think this request is legal here since it makes no mention of money. My father had 2 off-topic tractors, but my brother and son have both requested one. Please contact me off-forum at my email address.
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Archive through April 09, 2009
- Thread starter syost
- Start date
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
Paul D.-
I'm with Richard...that original roll pin made it 30+ years...just put another one in there and it will be fine. You never know, you have have to take the rockshaft out for some unforseen reason.
I'm with Richard...that original roll pin made it 30+ years...just put another one in there and it will be fine. You never know, you have have to take the rockshaft out for some unforseen reason.
snicklas
Well-known member
Paul D,
I strongly agree with the others in replacing the pin. That pin is designed as the weak link in the system. If something is going to give/break it should be that pin. Dad has a 149 that I have replaced the pin in on the right side so many times I could do it in my sleep (At least once a year for 15+ years) till Dad replaced the worn rockshaft and associated parts. It took dad most of a day and alot of swinging of a BFH to get it apart. It is much easier to deal with the hassle and cost of a broken pin (maybe an hour or two at and a buck or two for the pin at most) than a day and a few hundred dollars to replace something else in the system. Looking at your profile I would assume this is on your 1250. You can remove the tunnel cover and replace it fairly easily. Just my $.02
Scott
I strongly agree with the others in replacing the pin. That pin is designed as the weak link in the system. If something is going to give/break it should be that pin. Dad has a 149 that I have replaced the pin in on the right side so many times I could do it in my sleep (At least once a year for 15+ years) till Dad replaced the worn rockshaft and associated parts. It took dad most of a day and alot of swinging of a BFH to get it apart. It is much easier to deal with the hassle and cost of a broken pin (maybe an hour or two at and a buck or two for the pin at most) than a day and a few hundred dollars to replace something else in the system. Looking at your profile I would assume this is on your 1250. You can remove the tunnel cover and replace it fairly easily. Just my $.02
Scott
Well I put the rocker shaft in the correct location & welded it up. In regards to engineered to break weak link, the implement relief spring (hydraulic) should take care of that issue. The pin in the rotating arm that the blade lift rod is attached to will also shear if somthing binds or overly worked.
Mike M., very, very nice!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Chris B.-
Most of them do that; it's an internal leak in the pump. That happens when these things get old.
Jeff B.-
A strong 12 h.p. shouldn't have any trouble, but you'll want hydraulic lift. Those things are kinda heavy. A 14 would be better for power, but it probably doesn't matter. I've nearly stalled my 18 h.p. 782 with my QA36A.
Most of them do that; it's an internal leak in the pump. That happens when these things get old.
Jeff B.-
A strong 12 h.p. shouldn't have any trouble, but you'll want hydraulic lift. Those things are kinda heavy. A 14 would be better for power, but it probably doesn't matter. I've nearly stalled my 18 h.p. 782 with my QA36A.
PSA
Just in case you HAVE NOT NOTICED YET!
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So lets make Myron feel Welcome by buying some parts from him.
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Just in case you HAVE NOT NOTICED YET!
We've added Myron Bounds and the Cadet Collector Supply Room to our list of great Sponsors at the top of every page.
So lets make Myron feel Welcome by buying some parts from him.
