Archive through April 09, 2005

[bmcmeen]

Travis -

My point has nothing to do with the price of the filter. The PH 16 could be $30 but it will STILL have a bypass valve, plain and simple. As such, it most CERTAINLY lets dirty oil go thru the hydro. Ergo, excess wear and tear.

Perhaps you can save some work as opening oil filters has already been done: <a href="http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html" target="_blank">http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
</a>

Folks may also want to just skip to the e-mail that the above site's author received from a FRAM engineer: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilter-fram1.txt

 

[sblunier]

Travis,

The very one......

 

[tschweizer]

Bryan, keep your shorts on, I was addressing the intial post "While I want to save some dollars where I can, I don't want to sacrifice reliability or longetivity."

It's funny though, I don't see an OE Cub Cadet filter on that page ;-)

 

[bmcmeen]

Travis -

Oh, THAT post

I meant that you wouldn't have to open every filter you got your hands on, only the ones not on the site.

 

[tschweizer]

I guess I'm just getting into this discussion because it's something I actually know about ;-)

Here's another interesting fact. Not related to Cub Cadets, but interesting. If you use a aftermarket air filter on a Nissan vehicle, it WILL take out the mass-airflow sensor!! Steve B already found out about K&N's on Fords.

 

[rmunday]

Wyatt - I'd love to see some pics of the offset on those rims.

 

[sblunier]

Yup, I did...and I didn't oil it, it was the factory oil right out of the box.....

 

[dfrisk]

I hadn't seen the letter from the former FRAM Engineer before. He sure didn't think highly of His former employer!
TRAVIS - I agree with the comment You make about trying to save $4 on a Hydro filter every year. Like buying a brand new 4-door dually diesel pickup for $50,000 and then trying to save $4 by buying some off-brand WalMart oil for the engine.

Far as K&N's are concerned, Oil analysis on My truck shows they pass way too much dirt to suit Me. They may be O-K on a race engine that gets rebuilt every several hundred miles..... but My truck turned over 278,000 miles last Saturday, and I need it to last a while longer. I use the Ford pleated paper air filter and either Ford oil filters or the IHC equivalent for the T444-E. If it was a GM vehicle they'd be A-C.

 

[thoffman]

Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1X8 series that they could email me? Thanks!

 

[ressex]

Thanks for the lively discussion on the hydro/oil filters. I figured my inquiry would bring out a lot of useful information as well as humorous comments and brand loyalty. My suspicions about substitutes began when I saw the WIX 51084 had innards that the OEM did not. I went into the idea of substituting with my eyes wide open. Until this year, I always changed hydro filters yearly, using OEM’s without question. With a lot of IH CC maintenance and a project tractor this year, I didn’t like the price increase I experienced at the CC Parts Counter this time. By the way, a Carquest 85410 is a re-labeled WIX 51084, straight from the vendor’s mouth and he brought one out to the counter to prove it. A Carquest 85084 is a straight filter with no bypass valve. So, everyone needs to be careful when the parts guy hands them an aftermarket hydro filter. The catalogs indicate if there is a bypass valve or not. The devil is in the details, as always. As Steve B. said “just because it fits, doesn’t mean it works”.

For those who feel that saving $4 is nothing more than being cheap, consider Ken Updike’s response: “you are getting gouged!” Thanks Ken for letting concerns about money appear to be legitimate. I am not concerned about saving $4 on one tractor; however, I have three working tractors and a tired 1650 I am bringing back to life. After PM’ing the three running machines with fresh filters all around and other seasonal TLC, the 1650 needs significant cash to get it ready as a tiller tractor. So, like all Cub owners, there are times when the wallet asks for mercy and mine is there. If someone can prove one filter is the best, I’ll buy it, but MTD does not make it’s own filters, so it is already up for grabs as at to what CC owners are really getting when they buy an OEM hydro filter.

I try to take very good care of my IH Cubs, since IH left the lawn/garden market twenty-four years ago and there are only so many of the old ones that are worth having. This forum is a great place to get support to keep the old tractors running and I thank every one who lended their expertise to the subject I asked about. I would have been disappointed if it had been any other way.

 

[digger]

Tom,
If ya squint real hard you can see it, LOL
But I'll send ya a bigger one too. grin

 

[agitch]

Travis, you are scaring me. I bought a Nissan little over a year ago and had been going to other places like Jiffy Lube. Just was telling my wife few days ago that I was going to start doing it myself with a Nissan filter because every place I've taken it to has left the oil cap loose etc... I feel better about spending the extra bucks for a CC filter after reading some of those posts. I had put a few Fram's on my "04 Dodge but then started using Mopar. Glad I changed it.

 

[digger]

Well we got Jason M's question answered off board since no one would post and answer to his question on here!
Thanks Myron and Travis

 

[clong]

On the Hydro Filter. AC Delco makes a PF2049. It is a hydraulic filter, not a oil filter. It will work in a jam, But my 105 gets a CC filter(AC Delco Filter $13.00)

 

[cfischer]

Im new here, just got my first ever garden tractor to care for my 1 acre yard that we also just got. Anyway, its a hydrostatic 1250 built march of 1975, the same month and year I was born. I didn't get an owners manual for it, but I'm calling CC tomorrow. Is there anything you guys can tell me about the 1250. I don't think it seems to be as popular as some of the other machines that CC built, but from my point of view its awesome!

Any advice would be great. Did these tractors have implements for them? What ones are worth having and what ones should I avoid? Is there anything I should keep my eye on? The motor was just rebuilt by the guy I bought it from, but the rest of the tractor is pretty rough. I'm working on sharpening the blades up so I can cut the lawn for the first time. but eventually I'd like to restore it... I plan to have it for a long time. One question I have is about the camber of the front wheels, I have one wheel that seems way out of camber, is there an adjustment for that? And what kind of tires should I put on the front, the tires that are on there are probably the originals, and they are worn.

Chuck

 

[lbuttke]

Chuck,
As far as attachments for your tractor, yes they are worth every penny you pay for them as long as you have a use for them ( my thoughts anyhow )some one else will have to speak up on what to look for on the 1250 for I don't know anything about them, about the only thing I do know is every attachment has a purpose and value, depending on what you are going to do with the 1250 will help you decide what attachments you will need or want.

 

[clong]

Chuck

There is no adjustment for your camber. Check wheel bearings, spindles, and pins for excessive wear. There is some positive(top of wheel leaning out)camber on all the wide fronts that i have seen.

 

[cfischer]

Thanks for the help guys.

I just called the 800 number on the cub cadet website to get an owners manual, and the lady told me she couldn't get me cub cadet publications, only MTD. What gives?

Chuck

 

[digger]

Chuck F,
Call 1-800-800-7310 do option #2 and have your serial number ready. I just called and had no problem with getting any manual all the way back to Original's.
OR
Click on one of the sponsor ads listed above and go that route, which might be better since the DITZ's at MTD are really item specific on what you order and unless you have ALL the facts, they don't have a clue either, LOL

 

[jstorma]

just got the rear end back on the tractor but I sprung the spring that goes to the clutch and to some where. I put it on the black S type bracket that holds the front of the transmission on.

Is that the right place that it goes? If not where?

Thanks!