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Archive through April 09, 2005
- Thread starter rtunison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Hello All, I am new here. I was plowing my graden with my 100 today and ran into a problem with my lift handle button. The button is sticking in the down position. Has anyone ever bent the lift handle? The spring is still intact and is trying to push the button up it just acts like it is in a bind. I would be grateful for any feedback on the problem.
Craig ...Ihad the same problem with my 70 a few years ago... It need some lubrication...take some wd-40 silicone or other penatrating oil, I used GM superlube and soak the heak out of it then tap the button with a small hammer { lightly of course} keep spraying lube in the hole and tapping it will break loose and move freely. That solved my button troubles
Rob D,
And your giving advice on how to fix stuff? All from a guy that broke every thing he touched this weekend!
BTW,
Boners Stealth International was a huge hit today!
And your giving advice on how to fix stuff? All from a guy that broke every thing he touched this weekend!
BTW,
Boners Stealth International was a huge hit today!
Craig L.,
I bent the lift handle on my 123 at a plow get together. I just bent it back forward until everything worked freely. Just grab a hold of the top and pull forward. It worked for me and never bothered after that, even lifting the tiller.
Tom H.,
Just wait. Some of us have now been up for almost 21 hours and some things just have to wait until morning.
I bent the lift handle on my 123 at a plow get together. I just bent it back forward until everything worked freely. Just grab a hold of the top and pull forward. It worked for me and never bothered after that, even lifting the tiller.
Tom H.,
Just wait. Some of us have now been up for almost 21 hours and some things just have to wait until morning.
Looks like it was a good time at Travis' place yesterday. Wish I could have been there.
When I was moving cold and warm weather stuff around in the cub shed yesterday, a neighbor from about four houses away showed up at the house, and Sue sent him out to see me. He said he had an old tractor that "looked kind of like that one," pointing to my 125, "except it has bigger tires and a shift lever by the seat. It ran last year, but it won't start now. It's at a buddy's house, and he doesn't have time to work on it. If you want to go pick it up, you can have it."
He said he also had some other "old mower parts" he wants to get rid of, so I'll check that out, too. His buddy might be home this afternoon. If so, the neighbor is going to call me with directions and an address. It sounds like it's about five to ten miles away. I may have to invite him over for a cookout this summer.
When I was moving cold and warm weather stuff around in the cub shed yesterday, a neighbor from about four houses away showed up at the house, and Sue sent him out to see me. He said he had an old tractor that "looked kind of like that one," pointing to my 125, "except it has bigger tires and a shift lever by the seat. It ran last year, but it won't start now. It's at a buddy's house, and he doesn't have time to work on it. If you want to go pick it up, you can have it."
He said he also had some other "old mower parts" he wants to get rid of, so I'll check that out, too. His buddy might be home this afternoon. If so, the neighbor is going to call me with directions and an address. It sounds like it's about five to ten miles away. I may have to invite him over for a cookout this summer.
Z
zfriedman
Guest
This likely should have been done a while ago but now that it is hot out I believe its even more of a priority.
A while back I replaced the cylinder head on my K241. (See this website for reference http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/cylhead.htm)
I had the second style head (spark plug in the middle) and I swapped over to the "new" style (with the spark plug offset).
Everything works great, but the muffler heat shield no longer fits due to the new location of the spark plug. I don't have or have access to a bit/hole saw big enough to drill a new hole.
So I got a few questions:
1) Are there heat shields on other models of tractors that were built with the new style cylinder head that will fit my 102?
2) To avoid making a "hot spot" does the hole have to be as close cut as possible the the spark plug or can I just cut out a square chunk of metal to make it fit? (Somewhat like what I did with the thinner piece of tin, see pics.)
3) Without the heat sheild is it even a big deal? I don't care about peeling paint but I do care about frying an engine.
Thanks in advance.
A while back I replaced the cylinder head on my K241. (See this website for reference http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/cylhead.htm)
I had the second style head (spark plug in the middle) and I swapped over to the "new" style (with the spark plug offset).
Everything works great, but the muffler heat shield no longer fits due to the new location of the spark plug. I don't have or have access to a bit/hole saw big enough to drill a new hole.
So I got a few questions:
1) Are there heat shields on other models of tractors that were built with the new style cylinder head that will fit my 102?
2) To avoid making a "hot spot" does the hole have to be as close cut as possible the the spark plug or can I just cut out a square chunk of metal to make it fit? (Somewhat like what I did with the thinner piece of tin, see pics.)
3) Without the heat sheild is it even a big deal? I don't care about peeling paint but I do care about frying an engine.
Thanks in advance.
Zach - I have the same problem with the K301 I bought from a member here.
I haven't seen the tin with the offset yet. Someone Saturday made the suggestion to just drill it with the hole over in the right position, and that it'd make little difference to leave the gap from the old hole open.
I haven't seen the tin with the offset yet. Someone Saturday made the suggestion to just drill it with the hole over in the right position, and that it'd make little difference to leave the gap from the old hole open.
Zach, same problem here. I did the hole saw job to hold me over till I get to a metal shop across town to stamp me out a new plate. The washers help support it where it is cracked. The new one will be slightly larger to reach the next head bolt back for better support.
Zach, to answer your questions. I think the shield helps deflect the heat down and out the front. With your voltage regulator right there its probably best to hack it up the best you can and still keep the shield in place.
Bryan,
In my best Clint Eastwood voice!
NAG NAG NAG!
In my best Clint Eastwood voice!
NAG NAG NAG!
trentschler
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
- Messages
- 63
- displayname
- Tom Rentschler
Need some advice: Have a rebuilt/restored 104 and am having trouble engaging the clutch to shift. It's making a weird sound when I push down on the pedal, and practically have to step on it as hard as I can to engage it. Otherwise when I push down it sounds and feels like it's 1/2 way in, 1/2 way out???
kweimann
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2001
- Messages
- 210
- displayname
- Kenny Weimann
Tom,
Take off the clutch shield and make sure nothing is binding. Sometimes the release bearing's inner race will wear a groove in the driveshaft and hang up not allowing full release of the clutch. Also look at the front of the pedestal where the throwout arm pivots to make sure it hasn't cracked allowing the throwout lever to drop. This will hamper clutch disengagement as well. Kenny
Take off the clutch shield and make sure nothing is binding. Sometimes the release bearing's inner race will wear a groove in the driveshaft and hang up not allowing full release of the clutch. Also look at the front of the pedestal where the throwout arm pivots to make sure it hasn't cracked allowing the throwout lever to drop. This will hamper clutch disengagement as well. Kenny
