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Archive through April 09, 2005
- Thread starter rtunison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Something I noticed on Saturday-
I ran an "experimental" setup, i.e. the tires and wheel offsets I'm using on the tractor I'm building and I was pleasantly suprised at the traction from my 2-ply Carlisle ag tires. I had been a big fan of the Titans, but the Carlisle's really didn't give me any problems at all. Given, I was only plowing with a hydro so I'm sure I wasn't putting down power like a gear drive does, so maybe it's a moot point.
I ran an "experimental" setup, i.e. the tires and wheel offsets I'm using on the tractor I'm building and I was pleasantly suprised at the traction from my 2-ply Carlisle ag tires. I had been a big fan of the Titans, but the Carlisle's really didn't give me any problems at all. Given, I was only plowing with a hydro so I'm sure I wasn't putting down power like a gear drive does, so maybe it's a moot point.
rbedell
Well-known member
To All:
The Hydro Cross Reference List I posted early was given to me by fellow Cub enthusiasts. I assumed that the information was correct and thus did not check for correctness or validity. I have since received a few Emails citing the errors in my post. The FRAM is completely incorrect and the NAPA is reported to be a "poor" substitution. Therefore, disregard the FRAM & NAPA numbers.
I apologize for the errors and any confusion.
Roland
The Hydro Cross Reference List I posted early was given to me by fellow Cub enthusiasts. I assumed that the information was correct and thus did not check for correctness or validity. I have since received a few Emails citing the errors in my post. The FRAM is completely incorrect and the NAPA is reported to be a "poor" substitution. Therefore, disregard the FRAM & NAPA numbers.
I apologize for the errors and any confusion.
Roland
Head Bolts on a 10hp - I have one engine that I'm rebuilding and it used studs in place of bolts...I'm wondering if I should replace the studs with bolts? I'm not sure which setup is better. And if bolts are better where can I pick these up? I looked at the sponsers here and I didn't see any....
tschweizer
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- Travis Schweizer
FWIW, I won't screw anything but an OE filter on mine. A friend of mine has a oil filter cutter, and there's no comparison between ANY of the aftermarket filters and the OE. If anyone wants, I'll separate some and show pics of the different brands. That's not the place to try to save $4-5.
I also only use OE oil filters on my personal vehicles for the same reason.
I also only use OE oil filters on my personal vehicles for the same reason.
Tom-
The rims I'm using have about 15/16" more offset to them, and accept 1/2" wheel bolts, and have the valve stems on the inside. The offset puts the center of the chevron just about at the edge of the fender. Only problem is they've got the ugliest yellow powdercoat on them. They let a Cub pull a plow from the middle of the three holes (at least it's how my plow does best) and then allows the full 12" of the plow cut to be used. They also are wider to match the wider stance of the SuperSteer front axle with standard 5-hole wheels and taper roller bearing hubs.
That's all a mouthful . . maybe I should just take a picture (or maybe someone took one Saturday?
The rims I'm using have about 15/16" more offset to them, and accept 1/2" wheel bolts, and have the valve stems on the inside. The offset puts the center of the chevron just about at the edge of the fender. Only problem is they've got the ugliest yellow powdercoat on them. They let a Cub pull a plow from the middle of the three holes (at least it's how my plow does best) and then allows the full 12" of the plow cut to be used. They also are wider to match the wider stance of the SuperSteer front axle with standard 5-hole wheels and taper roller bearing hubs.
That's all a mouthful . . maybe I should just take a picture (or maybe someone took one Saturday?
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I'm with Travis, although I do use the Fleet Guard HF6096 as well.......Cub Cadet OEM, JD OEM, or Fleet Guard....that's it.
I won't use a Fram on ANYTHING......junk!!! Otherwise I buy Ford filters for my Fords, NOT because they are OEM, but because they are made by Purolater and are a cheaper way of getting a high end filter due to the Wally World mass marketing of the Motorcraft line.
I won't use a Fram on ANYTHING......junk!!! Otherwise I buy Ford filters for my Fords, NOT because they are OEM, but because they are made by Purolater and are a cheaper way of getting a high end filter due to the Wally World mass marketing of the Motorcraft line.
I am attepting to mount my dozer blade(Narrow Frame Quick Attach)on my 100. I need a picture of what the brackets that bolt on need to look like. I check with the cub dealer and the snow plow frame has been superceded to the frame that I have. The support brackets at the front have been discontinued. I would appreciate any help
Craig L., if you have a narrow frame quick attach subframe it should bolt right onto your 100. I'll see if I can round up a photo of the narrow frame quick attach subframe to post.
Craig L., here is a photo of a narrow frame quick attach subframe mounted to a 100. (Bryan M's 100 in fact.)
Craig L., here is an unmounted narrow frame subframe.
And another.
Interesting discussion on the oil filters and what should or should not work. I have a modified work tractor. Its a a 147 frame and 125 hydro powered by a v-twin Subaru Robin 18 horse power engine. It has had a Fram PH 16 in it from the time I put it together 3 years ago. It will pull the front end of the ground easily and plows snow well. The following pictures were taken when it was well below freezing and the trans works just fine. I think oil/filters are just an arguement waiting to happen. Same as gear/hydro or Ford/GM. Roger
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Roger......no, in this case there is a difference, you just got lucky. An automotive oil filter (PH16) contains an anti-drain back valve as well as a by-pass, Hydraulic suction filters do not have these devices and are designed to have oil drawn thru them, not forced thru them. In the end they are different animals. If you want to say that brand loyalty among filters is an arguement waiting to happen, I'll agree, but in this case the PH 16 is NOT the correct filter, wether it works or not.
In fact, I have a friend who got a very nice 782 CHEAP because it had a "bad hydro"......well PH16 = "Bad Hydro", and it has been running strong ever since with a new hydraulic filter on it.
In fact, I have a friend who got a very nice 782 CHEAP because it had a "bad hydro"......well PH16 = "Bad Hydro", and it has been running strong ever since with a new hydraulic filter on it.
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Roger E. -
Hope you're saving your pennies for a new hydro unit.
First of all, you've been running 3 years without changing the oil or filter?
Second, a well worded quote from Toro is in order:<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Bypass Valve Most Toro hydraulic filters will not have a bypass since the bypass will allow unfiltered oil to flow past the filter and back into the reservoir. Some will-fit filters may have a bypass valve so the filter can be used in several applications including some that require a bypass valve.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>Your Fram there has a bypass valve. A no-no, according to the hydro unit's manufacturer:<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Inlet Filter
It is imperative that only clean fluid enters the hydrostatic transmission circuit, therefore a 20 micron (nominal rating) inlet filter is required in the charge pump inlet line. This filter should not have a bypass and should be changed regularly to ensure system reliability.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>So essentially you're running 3-year old contaminated oil through your hydro. Doesn't really matter whether it'll pick your front wheels off the ground, the point is that you're wearing out the hydro unnecessarily.
Hope you're saving your pennies for a new hydro unit.
First of all, you've been running 3 years without changing the oil or filter?
Second, a well worded quote from Toro is in order:<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Bypass Valve Most Toro hydraulic filters will not have a bypass since the bypass will allow unfiltered oil to flow past the filter and back into the reservoir. Some will-fit filters may have a bypass valve so the filter can be used in several applications including some that require a bypass valve.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>Your Fram there has a bypass valve. A no-no, according to the hydro unit's manufacturer:<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Inlet Filter
It is imperative that only clean fluid enters the hydrostatic transmission circuit, therefore a 20 micron (nominal rating) inlet filter is required in the charge pump inlet line. This filter should not have a bypass and should be changed regularly to ensure system reliability.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>So essentially you're running 3-year old contaminated oil through your hydro. Doesn't really matter whether it'll pick your front wheels off the ground, the point is that you're wearing out the hydro unnecessarily.
tschweizer
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- Travis Schweizer
I'm thinking it's time to cut some filters apart and take pics ;-)
Steve, the 782 wouldn't happen to be mine would it? It also had a Fram.
I'm not going to argue about who makes the best filter, or tell anyone that if they use a cheap filter they'll be buying a hydro. I sell the cheap ones too. My point is that it's not a very good place to save a lousy $4. What's that like a gallon of gas now?
Steve, the 782 wouldn't happen to be mine would it? It also had a Fram.
I'm not going to argue about who makes the best filter, or tell anyone that if they use a cheap filter they'll be buying a hydro. I sell the cheap ones too. My point is that it's not a very good place to save a lousy $4. What's that like a gallon of gas now?
