Archive through April 05, 2012

[digger]

John S.
I swear by my Neiko. A little piece of reflective tape on the pulley or what ever and it reads perfect.

 

[hydroharry]

Christopher C - I believe you posted the other day you have already removed the blade but you can't get the nut off that holds the pulley on. I think the others guys didn't know that from your 2nd posting. If you don't have an air rachett to try, then best I can suggest is re-install the blade as tight as you can, then block the blade against the deck housing with a 4x4, and try again on the but holding the pulley. Hopefully this will work. Doing it this way will then allow you to hold/block the blade to remove the nut on the blade side so you can then get the spindle out.
Hope it works for you.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes their nuts are really tight)

 

[bjamison]

Christopher C - I had the same problem with a 44 deck of mine. I tried everything, soaking it with penetrating oil, big wrench, heat and air impact wrench - no go. My brother suggested heating the nut and dabbing candle wax on it. I put the heat to it, hit it with candle wax and it looked to me like when I would remove the heat that the wax would get pulled down the threads. Long story short - when I used the impact wrench next time, the nut came off like it wasn't ever stuck. I guess the wax worked.

Hydro Harry - How am I doing? I'm trying to answer a question for a change rather than asking them...

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - hey that's a great post. Now, how and what ya doing on the 1650?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(Ask [questions] and ye shall receive [answers])

 

[cscannon]

Thanks for the replies. I do not have an impach wrench. My next step is to take it to the truck shop where I work and see if I can borrow theirs. I tried tightening the blade up a much as I could and blocking the blade with a 4x4 with no luck. The blade just spins. The two outside spindles took a 2 foot adjustable wrench on the pulley and a 2 foot pull arm/socket to break them loss. I have been soaking them with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and powersteering fluid. This works better than PB or Krol but no luck for me.
Thanks again for all of the replies.

 

[jfsirois]

Thanks Charlie That looks pretty slick. I like the Idea of not holding the inst. to the spinning part,as the wheel version do. plus there must be math to convert surface speed to rpm. I value digits and may need them for the math.

Christopher, I just disassembled my 50c deck the impact wrench works. Put the deck in the trunk and drive and see if a mechanic will zap it off for you. I had trouble getting the outer pulleys off. on the 50 the gear puller distorted the now junk pulley. A soak overnight and gentle persuasion on the spindle and nut while hand holding the pulley got them off.Is there a better way? I hope so

John

 

[hydroharry]

Christopher C - don't overlook trying Bill J's method of heating the nut and then applying candle wax, even if you don't have the impact wrench. If you're like me it may only be a propane torch or what ever the next level heat is (I think it comes in a yellow canister). It's worth a try before you go dragging it to work at the truck stop (not sure what you do there). And one more thing, I still suggest you go back and re-install the blade again, and then, do the following:
1 - stand the deck on it's side
2 - somehow block the blade from rotating (jam a 4x4 in there)
3 - use a rachett to hold the nut on the pulley
4 - use a breaker bar with socket on the nut for the blade, and put a 2 or 3ft pipe onto the breaker bar so you've got real leverage, and then tighten that nut on the blade so it doesn't spin.
5 - You may need an assistant to hold the rachett on the pulley, or if he's you're big brother have him pull on the pipe on that breaker bar.
6 - Once you have the blade on there unbelieveably tight, then block it from rotating the other direction and use that breaker bar and pipe on the pulley nut.
7 - assuming you do get the nut off the pulley, then you go back to the nut on the blade and use the breaker bar with the pipe, and block that blade with the 4x4 again.

I've actually done it this way before and got it to work several times. I didn't really want to mention it because people don't like to see you put a leverage pipe on a breaker bar. I've actually bent a breaker bar, and I've split a few 4x4s as well. I never heard of Bill J's wax method before or I would have tried that. Just keep trying and you'll get it.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (sometimes improper leverage on a tool is a must)

 

[jbaker]

that would be MAPP gas

not to be confused with this yellow canister gas

 

[gcorzine]

you guys are correct i no doubt keeping the cubs and forgetting about the green machine

even if my wife says i can buy anything i want i am sure she is not going to appreciate me spending 5-6 grand or more on a new tractor when her car is falling apart

just going to fix the clutch - if i can figure out how to post photos - i will post the 106 - i have a slick winch set up on the side to lift the blade up and down - the winch is for a atv but i mounted this up vertical - fabricaded a old bicylce handle to hold the controls works great

also adapted a rear fold up and down sears utility shelf which is a great for weight or moving rocks and brick - i used to mow with this tractor but turned his one into a utility one -

 

[jrlewis]

Is it Friday? I have been having a bad week things keep changing and nothing is working right. I found my 1810 setting in the middle of the yard right before dark, would not start new starter on it and it would not turn it over, then I noticed it was engauged solid. My son in all his wisdom did not check nothing and started mowing. The starter had hung in gear and burnt it up! If you listen when one starts you can tell something is wrong or most people can. That was just another day in the life of a man that had a real bad week. Now I am rebuilding the old starter and putting it on and hoping nothing else is wrong. VR can be a real pain, Hydro Harry has been helping me and just found out that the terminals may be marked wrong. Now for the good news I am still a live after a week like this, lucky me. Plus having to take care of mother in law's items after her passing.I have a Great Nephew that has SF is in bad shape, he got to come out Tuesday and drive the 105, 125, 128, 782, 582, 1450, 1650 and mow with the 129 for a minute. he got choked up and could not breath his lungs are about gone and only 11 years old. I want you all to pray for GOD'S help for him.

 

[cscannon]

I will try heat and soaking it a bit more before I take it to work. I've never heard of the wax method before. I'll also give that a try. We used a 2 ft snap-on breaker bar with a 2 ft pipe to tighten the nut holding the blade on. I work for a moving company and am good friends with the mechanics in our shop. They let me work on my trucks there all the time.
Thanks again for all of the ideas on the deck.
I also have one more question, the hyro on my 129 has a lot of play in the spring slot. Will a 127 pump and or rear interchange with it? I have a parts 127 that has no where near the same amount of play. Neither are ported.

Chris

 

[bjamison]

Harry - I'm still working the 1650, but it is slow going. I've got to many irons in the fire!

One thing I am going to try to do is add some material back on to the engine cradle bracket holes. Hopefully these not beyond repair.

In the mean time, I've been working those other color tractors of mine...

 

[jrlewis]

Bill do you have use of a tig welder? I welded 2 up for my self with a welding rod that hardened the material and use a carbide burr to even out the hole and a grinder to smooth our the high places. Has held up for 7 years now and 2 sets of motor mounts. Tigging is the best way that way you reduce the excess weld that has to be removed.

 

[bjamison]

Joe - My brother is a crack welder. I think tig is the way to go, less material build-up and grind down and more control too.

 

[hydroharry]

Joe L - tomorrow's Good Friday so you're gonna have a good day. And I do hope and pray for all the best for your Great Nephew. Glad he was able to get out for awhile.

Christopher C - I think I'd stop with the penetrant and go to the heat and candle wax as Bill suggested. If you had seen Bills deck I'm pretty confident it will work. As for the rearend from a 127 working on your 129, I believe the basic rearend and the pump are the same. The hydrofluid bypass line has a big loop on the 127 and I think they had a steel fan with a shroud around it (but thats not the reaend anyway). So if the 127 has a decent trunion on the pump I'd probably just swap the entire rearend and pump together, and use the bypass tube from the 129. I'd certainly put new buttons and springs on the trunion while doing this tho. They are cheap and you don't want to have to get in there again (although the foot treads and fenders will come off easier the 2nd time if you have to).

Bill J - sounds like you have a plan to get so ISO-bars right. I was a little fearful you were gettng to anxious so I'm somewhat glad to see you say it's slow going. The only issue I really have is that red machine.

Ya'll take care and be safe out there.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and although we talk about welding and fire, never ever use a cutting torch)

 

[jrlewis]

GOOD FRIDAY to everyone! I am up on heating pads trying to ease back and hip pain. Need to work on 125, gas tank and put a new shutoff on it the tank filter is stopped up has rust in it. So have a good Easter! I am having the tank cleaned and sealed inside. I is going to a tank shop and have hot cleaned any better way to have it done?

 

[dtanner]

Morning all

I think I have found a new project for me. I know this will have bags of power and won`t need wheel weights. lol

 

[jrlewis]

No need to ask where the beef you can see it! What about an extra turbo just for the fun of it.

 

[cscannon]

Hydro Harry,
Thanks for the info on the 127 vs 129 hydros. I will put new springs and caps in. If I can get away without having to weld and grind the trunion back to shape I will be happy. I'm able to do it, but it will just speed things up. Eventually I would like to put a ported pump and a hydraulic lift setup.
I'll try the wax and check out the 127 hydro Sunday and leave an update on the progress.

Chris

 

[jrlewis]

Harry I have been reading about the wax deal how hot do you get it before you put wax on it? I have missed a couple of the post on it.