Archive through April 04, 2016

[hydroharry]

Kraig - well having the 125 decal on the dash might be a better indication it "could" be a 125. Hopefully the pics show you the engine tag and it's a K301 and not a K241. I see a tie-wrap around the top of the steering column, and a screw holding that plastic insert - neither of which are good signs, and the top of the steering wheel (where the cap goes) is all beat up - so who knows what the shaft looks like. Speaking of shafts - be careful this isn't another shaft deal if Vince passes which I thought he said he did already. Just give'm $200 for the pair and be done with it.

By the way, I see a button on the side of the hood of the 106. Is that for lifting the hood? Might not be that bad an idea. Maybe IH should'a put little handles like that on each side so ya ain't yanking the sheet metal outta shape so much - course I doubt they really expected the same hood would be in use 50 years later, or for that matter the tractors.

Under Edit - see, I told ya. In the pic you posted the PTO engagement lever is lying all the way forward so the front lever must be disconnected or something. $200 for the pr - MAX. Remember, he said they both run - he didn't say they both drove.

 

[mmasheris]

Any one have a copy of mounting instructions for spring assist on a 70-100?

 

[mfrade]

Mike M., check in here. https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/217124/217124.html&lm=1291125941

 

[sblunier]

 

[jsosbe]

Hi guys! Got a new project ive been working on... I bought a 123 in pretty good condition from one of my inlaws. Im having electrical issues with it and im at my wits end. To start off... looks like the voltage regulator may have been replaced at some point recent (its been stored for some time.) Ignition switch is ok. Solenoid is ok.. The problem im having is it seems that im getting power back feeding through the regulator to the s/g from the "bat" wire. I have followed the wiring diagrams to a tee and even had another friend thats a mechanic take a look with me. So, that being said, ignition switch detatched... touch the battery cables to the battery terminals and the engine cranks... Next.. plug in the ignition switch, unhook the grey "bat" wire from the regulator, bolt up the battery cables, and then it acts normal..solenoid clicks and engine cranks with the ignition switch like under normal operation. Ive tried the regulator off of my original, tried the s/g off of my original thinking maybe something was shorting out inside... still the same result... Are there different regulators? I dont know much about them. Im at a loss at this point... Also, all the wiring schematics i see list "b" , "g", & "f" on the regulator terminals... my regulator reads "F", "bat", & "L" on the terminals...Ive never had something so simple become so complicated... Any imput would be great... Thanks ahead of time!!!

 

[prtombaugh]

I need some help. My '62 Original with mower deck and #1 cart has been invited to be on display at the local Farm & Fleet store during the Cub Cadet Ride and Drive Days. An informational poster is being made for the display and I would like to include the 1962 prices for the tractor, mower, cart, and tractor options such as lights, creeper, wheel weights, etc.
I have found a couple price lists in the archives that were posted by Kraig, but not for the year I need. Thanks in advance!
Paul T.

 

[jclazar]

About those two for sale. One a positive note, they are not in a scrap yard somewhere! I think I would entertain a slightly lower price offer with the gent. Seeing how one appears to be a hydro drive, and the other a gear model, scratch any ideas about having extra parts on a less than limited basis. At $400, my best guess may include another $400 in parts and correct, Cub Cadet approved fluids,...JUST to have one tractor/mower. With the National Scrap Prices on the down-low, an offer of a $100 less seems fair, and alot better than the alternative.

I'd poke around a little more, gather some further detains, perhaps a test run of each tractor, and then come up with an offer.

 

[eford]

Paul I wish I could help, but i don't have any of that info. I think that is fantastic! I hope you'll take some pictures

 

[lhinds]

Jason sounds like you have the gen. wire on the L terminal. L is for lights or load. There should be a terminal on the bottom or back of the regulator for the Gen. wire.

 

[kmcconaughey]