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Archive through April 04, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Jason,

There are a couple choices for a repower for a 782. A Mag 18 is a good motor and should fit right into a 782 without too much or any modification as long as it is from another cub (1810,1811,1812, etc.)...not real sure have never done it, but I do know that if you go that route you will need the wiring harness and key switch from the donor tractor cause that will save you plenty of headaches. You can also opt for the more power route and go with a Honda. There is a company out there that sells a repower 24 Horse honda for the 782, and from what i've hear that is a good motor and will give you plenty of power. I'm sure that some of the good folks who have done repowers to their 782's will let you know what they did. I have never repowered a 782 so this is just all what I know. Hope this helps out some.

On another note...is it plowday yet???
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Jason - Physical dimensions of the motor is a consideration if you want to keep the side panels on your tractor. My 18hp fits just about perfectly - not sure how much bigger a 23hp would be. If interested, I'll give you the contact info where I got my motor. He also provided all the adapter info/parts, as well as unlimited tech support via 800 #. Here's his website: http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/
 
Kentucky Ken. I'd be interested in seeing what you've made to move your 129 with a cordless drill. By chance do you have any pictures or a drawing of it?
 
Whoohoo! Rear lift showed up today, had just enough time to unpack and measure for making pins. I think a few nice pieces of 4140 will do just fine for this one.
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Hey, does anyone have the installation procedure and/or recommondations for this? Let me know or email me if you can. Thanks
 
Before it gets out of hand again,
Please try to use this topic for discussion about IH Garden Tractors built prior to 1981.
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Lip, That conversion looks very neat and tidy even the oil filter fits inside the frame rails.

I've been looking at that Jim's Tractor webpage and I am very thankful that you posted a picture of the completed conversion.

Does the Vanguard use the original PTO clutch and the same belts for attachments? Also how was the ease of installation?

Gotcha Charlie. I was hoping to squeak by with a serial of 675900 but..... I get your point
 
Mitchel G.

Your hydro problem interest's me, I haven't had time to work on any for the past couple of years but I can tell you they are pretty rugged.

You said you were working the cub and it just quit, can I assume you didn't hear any strange noises?

You say that all of the shaft pins are intact and there is no slippage of the hydro.

There is plenty of fluid and the check valves are reset and okay.

I believe you said there is no movement when you change the forward reverse lever and you say there is no lift. If that is true there is no hydro pressure.

Since you probably don't have a gauge to check the pressure I would suggest you check the charge pump and implement relief valve springs to make sure one of them isn't broken. Since they are on the outside of the hydro case you can check them without removing the hydro.

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The charge pump relief spring is under the cap on the right side just below and forward of the check valves.

The implement relief spring is on top under the cap just in front of the check valves.

Be sure and clean the hydro up before removing the caps and be careful not to drop something.

The springs are about an inch long.
 
Charlie - Am I misreading the charts? I understood that 782's through #694248 were IH built, and that my #682355 was built by IH in Nov or Dec '80... Plz let me know if I'm misunderstanding; (I'm just a Minnesota farmboy, so I've been wrong a time or two in my life!) Apologies to anyone offended - You can flog me PD next week!
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Jason - Yes, it was a pretty easy process, with the adapter kit I got from Jim. They actually took care of all the wiring issues at their shop before I took the motor home. Uses the same clutch, pulley, wiring harness, etc. The only thing I really had to do was drill new holes in the tractor's motor mounting plate, and extend/reroute the wiring, since the starter, rectifier, etc are on the opposite side of the Briggs. I can email you more photos if you want.
 
Mitch G:

I have been following your post and subsequent replies.

I agree with Richard. Sounds like you have a loss of Hyrdo pressure.

Here is an image of what you should have....

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I would suggest doing the simple things first.

(A) Remove both check valves (Item #1). Clean and inspect them. If you Cub has the ones as pictured in the image above, the center button has to move freely up & down. Make sure that is accomplished. There is a spring & ball inside and those parts have to move freely also. You can use your favorite parts cleaning solvent to clean them up. Once clean, blow the valve out with compressed air. Once clean , dry, and all parts move freely, dip into some Hytran & reinstall.

(B) If your Hydro has the "automatic" check valves, the procedure is the same except for the middle button through the top.

(C) The Charge Pump Relief Valve (Item #2) could also be your culprit. That also can be removed. Simply there is a Spring and a Cone. This also has to be clean from any foreign debris. The Spring can be replaced if it is weak or broken.

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Lastly, if you have a Pressure Gauge (0-1000# range), you could install this on the test port (Item #3).

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If you don't have any pressure after all the above, there is a problem with the Charge Pump.

Check this out and get back with us and give us an update.
 
thanks for the advice on the muffler and the break in tips i do have suport brackest on the big straight pipe. thanks again
 
I have a 1967 model# 123. The adjustment guage that came in the mechanical PTO rebuild kit doesn't seem to work with my pto. Is there a different guage for the original adjustment before I install it back on the engine? It seems like I have seen different guages but I can't find them in the archives.
 
Greg L., I believe Charlie was referring to his post about the whitecaps in the birdbath and the similar posts that followed.
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I would think ANY 782 is OK to discuss here, because it was designed by <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> even if some were not built by <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>.

Dan, did you get the correct PTO rebuild kit? Here is a LINK to where there was some discussion on the PTO adjustment gauge.
 
Gary - Here's a sketch of it. The actual one is somewhere in the shop. I used a cordless 18v Dewalt since it's slow and with you supporting the end of it, it won't be lined up with the input. A high speed drill could get ya in trouble ;)
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The ol lady came home sick from work early last night so I had to duck out.
 
Kraig - Thanks for clearing that up for me. Being new to the forum, I didn't want to start off on the wrong foot.
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(I wouldn't be so paranoid if everyone wasn't out to get me!)
 
Greg - We're not out to get you ... we just like fresh meat !
 
Charlie, were any birds sighted trying to land in that birdbath? Yikes!
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Kyle, that is a great photo! Any chance you have some more or even that one in high resolution that you could send me for the archives? Please.
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1969 Cub Cadet 104
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Using 42" belly mower, and it gets bogged down when cutting most anything these days.

Cleaned spindles and new spindle belt this week. No help.

How can I determine if the front PTO is going?
 

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