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Archive through April 04, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,736
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
Terry B.-

I rebuilt the clutch in my 128 and plowed with it at PD12, and when I took the clutch back out to install the creeper, I had to replace the rear spirol pin, which had less than 5 hours on it. It was about to break. I'm wondering if my 18 h.p. 582 is going to eat spirol pins at the upcoming IA plow day....
 
Merton,...Last summer my 128 started acting the same way.I aquired the tractor well used and put it straight to work.After a hard day of plowing,it began to run poorly,then after a 1-hour cool-off,it was "hard to turn over".I went the S/G and electrical check route,but it didn't solve my hard starting problem.What DID solve the problem was pulling the head,scrapeing a vast amount of carbon from the head and intake valve area,installing a new head gasket and using MMO in my fuel.I assume the large amount of carbon was causing a compression problem,hence,hard starting.My $.02!

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Kraig(and anyone else)..

I need to fully explain myself before I ask questions. I have a 71 vw superbeetle and I have an easier time pushing it myself than I do pushing a 1650 by myself. I was really wondering would a 1650 or 149 roll easier without the valves in? The 1650 might roll 1 foot before the rear wheels lock up and stop. I don't know if I explained it right this time or not, but thanks for any info you can give me..
 
Should the clutch release arm on a 582 (or practically anything) be vertical when the clutch pedal is fully up, as in, engaged? Got my 582's new clutch installed and something doesn't look right. The bottom of the release arm is ahead of the top, requiring a really long pull rod to go back to the clutch.
 
Still troubleshooting the hydro on my 149. No pin has been sheared, and everything is turning properly with no slippage. No linkage problem. One check valve will not return after deppressed. Should I take it out? I assume if defective this a replaceable item?

thanks for all the suggestions btw.

Mitch
 
I have good luck with these spirol pins from MCMaster Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
#95755A419 Heavy duty steel
#95765A539 Stainless steel
My problem is the pins start to back out, then they break. A hose clamp solves this problem.
This always happens furthest from the shed, but only when its starting to rain.
Has anyone tried a hi strength tight fitting bolt in place of the pin? Was the pin designed to shear to protect the driveline?
 
Mitchell G.
Clean the top of it up, spray it with PB Blaster or Kroil and let it set for a bit.
Then take some needle nose pliers and try to turn it back and forth. If it's really tight, let it soak a while longer. Then repeat the pliers thing, it will come loose. Spray again and then blow the gunk off and wire brush the tip and spray again.
 
You just gotta love living in Minnesota!
When the wind blows hard enough to freeze a white cap in your dang bird bath!
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Charlie, question about your sellers must register post. Does this mean those of us who are bringing items (such as the implements I am bringing for you), or are we just talking about those who are setting up booths/tents for the purpose of selling products? I am currently registered for plowing only.
 
Jon,
No, just the guys coming to sell only.
That way we can judge how much space we're going to need just for sellers.
Most everybody will sell something.
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Since you're gonna share Charlie,

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Ice Crystals formed by a very light wind. We get frozen whitecaps here too, on the fishing ponds. There's a reason why all of the trees here lean the same way ;)

I was looking forward to plowing the garden this weekend but the forcast is calling for snow the next two days. It was 80 on Monday
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Bobby - et all - Why scrape carbon buildup when you can add Cerma to the engine!

Kyle - That's just way to cool !

Gary - Only push a hydro cub a slow short distance. It's possible to bust the pump. Myself, I made a "drive shaft" that I can use with a cordless drill to move my 129 around in the shop. You really don't wont to pull a valve out just to move it. A speck of dirt will trash your swash plates.

Dennis - Does that mean we're engaged?
 
Charlie, took your advice and got the check valve to function. Hydro still not working. Going to re-consult the service manual. The filter was replaced in JAN or FEB. Should I put a new one on?
 
Charlie, you on tonight? Was wonderin if you know anything about the Haban flail mowers for Cubs? I've been lookin everywhere and have only fount one pic of a narrow frame with one. I have found a manual but it's for install on a Bolens, which is ok all but the mounting hardware. Mabey Kraig my have some pics filed away someware?


Bren
 
Mitchell - As Kraig said before, the pins may be sheared but the d'shaft still turn with no load. Have you double checked to see that the front and rear spirol pin is still intact? Rag joints not torn out? Only other thing would be the pump input shaft broke inside the pump housing or your pop up valve has completely crapped out and not letting it build up pressure. Oh and you know that it has enough fluid in it?
 
Ken, I checked the shaft and it is spinning at the rear of the pump, so I know it is not broke in the housing. The fluid level is good, checked it multiple times to be sure. How do I check the pop-up valve?
 
Thanks Charlie, didn't think there was much trafic on the Haban site.
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Does anyone have any good ideas for repowering an IH built 782 #676000?

I mean I like original but I don't want another KT17 series 1. I'm sure a mag 18 would work but is it heresy to put something else in it? Like as in mo'power.
 
Jason - Not sure what you mean by "like original" but I replaced the KT17 on my 782 with a Briggs 18hp VanGuard (commercial line), and I'm very happy with it. However, it's quite a bit lighter than the old Kohler, so I'll probably have to find some front end weights for tilling, etc.
 
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