• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through April 03, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
GARY - Yes, the mule drive belt will whip or vibrate back & forth... There is a tension spec for the spring loaded idlers.... I think it's in the Operator's manual plus there was a decal on the front face of the mule drive when Your 1450 was new that's probably been removed or painted over.
RUSSELL R. - A 100 should be able to push a fair amount of loose dirt...weights & chains on the rear would really increase the amount... I made a center mounted grader blade for My 72 MANY years ago. I used it to do the finish grading on My Father-in-Law's swimming pool landscaping. It took three of us all day to shovel & wheelbarrow or haul dirt with My cart from 3-4 single axle dumptruck loads (no skid-steer in the family at that time!) but about 15-20 minutes to level the windrows of dirt out and pack it for laying sod. Many ways to get a smooth level surface also.... I've even used an old tire pulled with a chain to smooth a dirt radio controlled race car track before.
 
Lyle B. / KENtuckyKEN,

Regarding the "O" ring at the fuel line connection at the carb from the tank:

I have also seen what I believe you're referring to, Lyle. It's not a true "O" ring, but rather it is a rubber compression ring (also sometimes called an "olive" or a "ferrule"). More commonly the compression ring is made of brass and is crushed onto the tubing and seats into the female fitting end via the compression nut.

The down side to a rubber olive is that over time and repeated on/off use, it'll break down and it may allow rubber particles into the fuel fitting at the carb. The up side is that it doesn't adhere to the tubing like a brass one does. A brass compression ring will crush onto the tubing and won't come off. So if the brass olive is somehow damaged or such, you must replace the fuel line. If your rubber olive is leaking, it'll need to be replaced.

You can install a brass olive where a rubber olive 'once lived', but not visa versa, for the reason mentioned above. Also, don't try to use a brass olive on plastic tubing - because it won't hold. You always want to use a plastic olive on plastic tubing.
Good Luck! Ryan W
beerchug.gif
 
I think I would add to Ryans post by cautioning that by going to a brass commpression you may be transmitting more vibe back to the tank. I did that exact same thing once and ended up with a crack right next to the bung in my gas tank were I had never had a problem before, could have been a coincedence but I think it was from solid mounting the fuel line as opposed to the rubber ferrules. At the time I would have thought that both being mounted to the engine it wouldn't make a difference but....
wink.gif
 
So i keep looking at the pic on the bottom of the mower and it keeps coming across to me as a tow behind mower, Do you think its possible to make something like that? if there is im goin for it!!!
 
Anthony,
Nope, its just a deck with the hanger and mule drive installed. Notice the drive belt hanging out the front.
 
Hey everyone, relatively new to the forum, been reading as to learn more.

I have 149. I was pushing around some stone today with the blade, and the tractor just stopped moving as well as no lift function. Basically a hydro problem.

The shaft is spinning as well as the hydro.

I have checked the HY TRAN fluid level and all is good.

It sat for a year while I was in Iraq, but have had no problems with it since I got back in November. I replaced the filter in December, and added a 1/2 Qt or so following prior to plowing snow.

I have never had any problem with it before today.

Any ideas where I start the troubleshooting process?
 
I have just put a old 107 together and got it running. Needed rings and a rod. I want to mow with it, but it only has a tiller on it. What decks will fit it and what do I need for undercarrage to hook a deck on it? All I have is the quck disconnect mule drive for the tiller. The tiller works good but it is hard to keep it a constant slow speed. It either stops or speeds up more than the tiller can deal with. Could a bad filter cause this?
 
Mitchell G.,
I would suggest you double-check the pin that locks your driveshaft flange onto your engine. It's likely that the pin is sheared off; so your engine runs/spins but the driveshaft doesn't turn. It's not uncommon & not a big deal to repair, but your 149 won't move without the pin in place!
wink.gif

Ryan W
beerchug.gif
 
Ryan W.

The driveshaft is spinning as well as the hydro, so it appears to be something else.
 
Steve B.,

My 782 isn't looking much better tonight. This is what it started out as.
54353.jpg

Now the engine is out and I am getting the Magnum 18 ready to drop in. My engine just got a good check over and tune up. I am also swapping the hydro and drive shaft. I am hoping to have it running this weekend as well.
54354.jpg

Good luck with your rebuild. Hopefully we'll both finish. If I don't I will be plowing on my Green machine so I better finish.
 
Mitchell G.
While you have the tunnel cover off, did ya look at the valves to make sure they had not gotten pushed down and released the hydro?
Just a thought.
Or maybe the trunion springs flew the coupe on ya.
 
Mitchell - Check the D'shaft @ the rear too.

Anthony - Just what I said.
 
So whats wrong with me painting my cub a few shades lighter? Its not like its purple or <u>green!</u> its just how i like it. Something wrong with that?
 
What is the spec number for the KT17's in the 782's? I bought a complete gasket set from a vendor on fleabay. The rubber seal for the crankshaft on the flywheel side that came in the set is too big. The O.D. of the seal is fine, but the I.D. is much too large. It does not even come in contact with the crank. I know that the kt17's had different pto crank snouts, but I thought the flywheel side was pretty much standard. Any thoughts?
 
Anthony - Why go through all the trouble that you've done cleaning and prepping and not paint it the right color?
 
Back
Top