-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through April 03, 2007
- Thread starter rbedell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
STEVE B. - My 72 went from three large pieces scattered in the shop to a "Roller" Sat. AM in about a half hour....These old Cubbies go back together about as fast as they come apart. Short break for some shop cleaning and setting up My new "Tool/Toy".... Finally got an EASTWOOD powder coating setup after wanting one for about 10 yrs. My Sister's old elec. oven She gave Me about 10 yrs ago even worked fine for curing the coating. Now all I need is a small fridge to set on top to hold more "Wheel Blocks" like Rick Beem showed on His post on the other page....
Mark L: The brochure photos, that Roland posted, shows the Model 70 & 100 with options. The standard tractors did NOT come with those round fenders or lights. See at the bottom of the second photo where it says "special equipment". That's all the optional extra cost stuff, including the mower deck. That's why some PO added the 1x6/7 series fender pan...It didn't have fenders, just like like most of them. The original deck likely rusted out and was replaced with a later version also about the 1x6/7 period.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Mark L., welcome to the forum!
I agree with Roland, what you have is a model 100 with 1x6/7 series fenders and an incorrect muffler. The mower deck and deck subframe appear to be from a 1x8/9 or Quiet Line series. That's the reason at least in part, why it doesn't lift as high.
Anthony, looking good. Charlie's right ya could have used real Cub Cadet paint! In any case good to see progress!
Steve B., that's cutting it close. Hopefully all will go well with the rebuild.
Anthony, looking good. Charlie's right ya could have used real Cub Cadet paint! In any case good to see progress!
Steve B., that's cutting it close. Hopefully all will go well with the rebuild.
Brian R., yes the creeper will fit, and it should already have the longer shift lever on it.
Are you referring to the front PTO or the rear PTO???
Are you referring to the front PTO or the rear PTO???
Actually in looking at Mark's tractor somebody did a nice job grafting later model parts onto His '64 #100. I personally like the 1X6/1X7 fenders better than the round fenders and the 44" decks mow much better than the old CI ended decks....They always seemed to warp so bad and not mow level.
Dad tried to put some fenders off a 123 onto His old 70 but they needed WAY to much rework so I took them off. It'd be quicker & better to start from scratch and make some like I have on My 72.
Dad tried to put some fenders off a 123 onto His old 70 but they needed WAY to much rework so I took them off. It'd be quicker & better to start from scratch and make some like I have on My 72.
Kraig,
I'm actually refering to the front PTO. You guys have expressed concern that mine might be going & that's why I hear that noise up front? I have my eye on a 124 for a few parts than I'm going to part it out since I don't need it.
I'm actually refering to the front PTO. You guys have expressed concern that mine might be going & that's why I hear that noise up front? I have my eye on a 124 for a few parts than I'm going to part it out since I don't need it.
Brian R., the front PTO from the 124 should be the same as the one on your 106. Should be an easy swap, well in that it'll fit right on, it's just that those PTOs can be a pain to get off......
Hydro Experts: I've attempted my first trunnion arm repair on the hydro unit in my #2 782 following the info from the FAQ.com website. I welded up the wear surfaces and I've filed the forward and aft edges of the spring slot to the recommended dimensions of .20 and .21 shown in the slot info sketch. When I put in the new OEM centering springs and end pads, the big spring is slightly compressed.
I know the small sping is supposed to be compressed but I thought the big spring is suppose to be a little loose so there's a dampening effect. Also, when I install on the cam plate there is a approximate .04-.05" gap between the spring end pads and the "Chevy" slot contact points in the cam plate.
Is this condition normal when you get the trunnion slot back in spec? Should the big spring be slightly compressed or loose? Do I need to file the trunnion slot some more to get the big centering spring to be slightly loose and close up the gap in the Chevy slot? Thanks in advance for your help.
I know the small sping is supposed to be compressed but I thought the big spring is suppose to be a little loose so there's a dampening effect. Also, when I install on the cam plate there is a approximate .04-.05" gap between the spring end pads and the "Chevy" slot contact points in the cam plate.
Is this condition normal when you get the trunnion slot back in spec? Should the big spring be slightly compressed or loose? Do I need to file the trunnion slot some more to get the big centering spring to be slightly loose and close up the gap in the Chevy slot? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hey folks,
Can anyone comment on the usability of a cub 100 with a blade for pushing around a bit of dirt? I have an International 3514 backhoe that I plan to use for some restorative work on our property, but it's just too big for any kind of final grading. I'm hoping to put a blade on my cub 100 for the final detail work, but before I go crazy finding a blade, I'd like to know if it will do the job. Thoughts?
-Russ
Can anyone comment on the usability of a cub 100 with a blade for pushing around a bit of dirt? I have an International 3514 backhoe that I plan to use for some restorative work on our property, but it's just too big for any kind of final grading. I'm hoping to put a blade on my cub 100 for the final detail work, but before I go crazy finding a blade, I'd like to know if it will do the job. Thoughts?
-Russ
Ol Pops has been very busy, 1st: the 1000 is close to done a few hours, a little more wet sanding! 2nd: been looking at a 7254 to replace the 1863 but 1863 ready to go mow!
3rd: I like this part; soon to have a Cub 1650 follow me home figured a little quick work and the kids will have something to mow with this summer. Really nice shape!
Hey Digger: remember I am short on memory, but isn't you that dislikes 16hp's. (All Smiles and LOL)
Pops
3rd: I like this part; soon to have a Cub 1650 follow me home figured a little quick work and the kids will have something to mow with this summer. Really nice shape!
Hey Digger: remember I am short on memory, but isn't you that dislikes 16hp's. (All Smiles and LOL)
Pops
Is there a tension spec for the drive belt on a Cub Cadet 1450 44" deck? Seems to me there is a lot of play in the belt. No noticible slipping but should the belt vibrate heavily after clearing the twin pulleys between the clutch pulley and the Mower Drive pulley?
Pops,
I'm not much on the 149's. anything else fits my butt just fine, Just can't get used to 149's.
I'm not much on the 149's. anything else fits my butt just fine, Just can't get used to 149's.
Charlie, how many 149's do you have? How big of a trailer should I bring so we can throw on the 149s when I come to get those 4 worthless 1250's you have?
Kraig,
I'm gonna have 2 LESS after PD.
I'm gonna have 2 LESS after PD.
