Took mower deck off the blue 123 and found my hy-tran leak. It is the tube going into the transmission case. Part number IH-394827-R21. I tried to tighten the 1" nut but was turning harder than I thought I should and quit. Is there just an o-ring that failed or am I forced to replace the whole tube? The replacements don't look like the original. What's the deal with that?
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Archive through April 01, 2013
- Thread starter lpalma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Terry-I think on some of the Originals I have had the push button starter has been yellow on the button itself, some have also been unpainted. When I repainted my 70 I didnt paint mine because I was afraid of spraying the contacts.
Terry,
As far as the starter button being painted yellow,I say because .......
And the Delco V/R box remained black too. Why would you send the tractor though the paint booth another time when al the "Product Graphics" are on it (see forground)........
As far as the starter button being painted yellow,I say because .......
And the Delco V/R box remained black too. Why would you send the tractor though the paint booth another time when al the "Product Graphics" are on it (see forground)........
I don't know Tom. I know pictures don't lie, but I coulda swore that my Dad's Original had the starter painted yellow. But then again I was just a young buck back then. I think I've had some 70's and 100's that had the starter painted yellow too. Of course they may not be original paint.
Oh and Terry,
I think the rubber disk on the drive shaft that you were asking about should be painted yellow too. Does anyone agree with that?
Oh and Terry,
I think the rubber disk on the drive shaft that you were asking about should be painted yellow too. Does anyone agree with that?
mpatterson
Well-known member
That's what I got today Lewis! All I needed what them there fancy black rings.
Picked up 4 of them at the IH dealer today $1.05/ ring and I am good. I figured I should have two sitting in the cabinet incase I ever need them again. My luck they will dry out before I use them again, but for a buck or two, its worth it. My steel line and fittings were in decent shape still, so will be able to re-use them. Just need to get the tank and carb washed out good now and hopefully back in business? Just got thinking, when I bought the 100 over a year ago, I think the PO said that the tank had been coated inside to prevent leaks. If so, is it possible the coating is coming off? Just got the fuel drained out of it, so need to get a flashlight in it to see for sure. Note to kids, DO NOT use a match here!
mpatterson
Well-known member
These are the little buggers I bought today. Test fitted them, they seem like they will work!
Removed the gas tank tonight on the 100 to get ready to clean it out this weekend. Also took off the carb so it can get cleaned out again. Start over from fresh.
I am thinking if it warms up enough this weekend, I should give the gas tank a little sand on the outside and spray some primer on it at least. Only suface rust, but don't want it to turn into something worse.
I have to replace the bearing on the clutch too this year, what do you guys think of the pin hole, worn too much and should be fixed or good for another 20 or 30 years?
Removed the gas tank tonight on the 100 to get ready to clean it out this weekend. Also took off the carb so it can get cleaned out again. Start over from fresh.
I am thinking if it warms up enough this weekend, I should give the gas tank a little sand on the outside and spray some primer on it at least. Only suface rust, but don't want it to turn into something worse.
I have to replace the bearing on the clutch too this year, what do you guys think of the pin hole, worn too much and should be fixed or good for another 20 or 30 years?
mfrade
Well-known member
Mike P., primer will NOT stop rust! Unless you can use something like rust-o-leum rusty metal primer with zinc.
Otherwise, topcoat it after the primer dries.
Otherwise, topcoat it after the primer dries.
Hey fellas - thanks much for the info and I just find it incredible these pics and info exists today. As to the starter button, gonna go with black but to be honest I figured they were cad plated so I was gonna go silver. Now I know better! Have a few of the old Delco VRs so hoping one still works. I do know the old caps will fit most of the replacement VRs. Also have a few old Delco coils and hoping at least one of those work as well. As for the rag joint - gonna be real hard to bring myself to paint it cause I just like em all new and black. Again Tom and Shultzie, many thanks for all your help. Now for the 982 - I'm a complete nidget and worthless on those big boys.
J
jclazar
Guest
I try not to comment so much. The forum is most fun to learn and read. I cant believe the pictures of the Original, I never seen those ones before. I wonder what those workers thought of the product they were making, vs what is made today. That for me would have been a dream to have worked that assembly line. No where on the net have I read and seen this kind of passion for these tractors.
What a picture of the left handed operator's Original, look at that shine! Wow.
Q: Did ALL model 100's have a fuel sediment bowl? And is having a metal fuel delivery line original equipment?
Though my tractor is a "mutt", the 241 does not have to be.
What a picture of the left handed operator's Original, look at that shine! Wow.
Q: Did ALL model 100's have a fuel sediment bowl? And is having a metal fuel delivery line original equipment?
Though my tractor is a "mutt", the 241 does not have to be.
I have a 1650 Cub Cadet. The engine needs an overhaul. On the average what does this cost? I have overhauled some 12 h.p. Kohlers over ten years ago but I am sure prices have gone up. I am thinking more than likely punching out .10 or.20, valves, and having the crank possibly turned plus parts. Thanks.
Mike P. Looks like you are missing the clutch disc anti rattle springs also. Unless there is only one and it's on the other side and isn't visable in your piture
Dave S.
Dave S.
Mike, there is product called "Loctite Extend" I found at a automotive paint store and it really works great on rust. You can wire brush all the loose rust off and brush this on, wait for it to dry and you can work the area just like regular metal. I have also seen the spray can but have never used it. It converts the rust to a black neutral surface. I don't know if it is resistant to gas (to use inside a tank).
