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Don T, The rotating assembly itself doesn't/shouldnt set in oil, just the slinger on the bottom of the rod cap at bdc. If you have enough oil in that engine to leak out the breather don't start it. Don't these engines hold about a quart? You have a sump on that engine, This leak has to be the pan. I don't think theres enough oil in there to be above even the bearing plate gasket.
 
michael hughes

I think the PTo take some power to haul in the front of the PTO to lock it in place, but then It just needs a little power to keep the pto in gauged. If you run at WOT like you should then stock lights should not be a problem in keeping the battery charged.If you run WOT and have a charge problem I would clean all grounds and get out a meeter and see what is up.
 
Dan H.-

A 1720 does not have a KT-17, it has a Magnum 17, and it's a vertical shaft engine. It can be converted, but it's not easy or quick, and you really need half of a donor horizontal shaft engine.

Michael H.-

That is not a good plan and is going to be an extremely expensive and frustrating way to determine your problem, particularly given how expensive Onan parts are. For starters, check all of your grounds. I don't have any experience with the Onan charging systems, but the ammeter should still be slightly to the 'charge' side, even with the PTO and lights on. Does it charge without the PTO or lights on? Give us some more information and we can help you figure it out.
 
Don T - I see where Dave R is coming from, and I agree with him. If you haven't run the engine since you put the new pan gasket on, and you only have 3 US pints of oil in the pan, then it has to be the pan leaking. (I'm pretty certain you have the dished pan with the 3 pt capacity. The flat pan used in a 10hp has 1qt capacity). I'm now thinking that when the 3 pints are installed the oil level would not be above the top edge of the pan. So if you have not run the engine since the last pan gasket was installed your problem has to be the pan. Maybe you have a crack in the pan that only opens when you have the engine bolted to the frame. If I'm viewing your pic correctly you have alot of oil on the floor, and I certainly think you should be able to see the area where the the block or pan is wet. Watch carefully when you remove each mounting bolt to see if you get a big oil drip when you remove each one. I can't exactly recall how the holes are set up that bolt the pan to the block, and the engine overall to the frame but I'm sure thinking you've cracked one of these holes. I'm certainly sorry about your luck with this unit, and really do hope you can find this leak.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and I'm dying to get an oil leak fixed)
 
HARRY - The K161/181's only held 2-1/2 pints of engine oil, the K241's held three pints like all the bigger engines.
 
Don Tanner,
I've heard of a lot of ideas, and tricks in my day but you really threw me a curve this time ---

"With the engine hot i would have sprayed some water in the carb,You would not see as much carbon"
Are you serious? Anybody else ever done that?

as for you oil leak, I had a one also on my 149. but found out the oil plug didn'd seal properly. I think it has a cork like gasket and mine was gone.
good luck Ron
 
Ron-

It's been done for years. I think the water instantly cools carbon build-up causing it to pop off and hopefully go through the muffler. I've heard about it from many mechanics through the years. If you do it I'd do it sparingly and watch the stuff come out of the muffler. If you're into fireworks do it at night.

Dennis or some of the "engine guys" can probably explain it better.
 
RON - Gerry Ide and I were the ones who suggested spraying water into a warm or hot running engine to decarbon it. Gerry & I are about the same age, both read Hot Rod Magazine back in the 70's. WATER Injection was used to prevent pinging & detonation in high performance car engines with the bad no-lead gas and non-electric pollution controls. As a side benefit it also kept the combustion chambers clean of almost ALL carbon deposits.

Yes, I've done it to several of my old CC's, get them warm, run about 1800-2000 RPM and with the air cleaner cover removed spray water from the tap into the carb with a spray bottle. The engine will miss, sputter, stumble but not die and have people NOT STAND in front of the exhaust outlet from the muffler because tiny and not so tiny pieces of warm/hot carbon will be flying out of the muffler.

It won't clean a combustion chamber as clean as a wire wheel brush on a drill will but it doesn't get fine carbon dust down between the piston & cylinder as bad as a brush will. Also don't have to replace the head gasket. About a quart of water is all you need for a Kohler.

I ran a rebuilt K241 1480 hours and never pulled the head. Cleaned the combustion chamber a couple times with water.
 
Wayne, Denis,
Ok, thanks, I believe I just may have to try that one day.
This is what's so great about this site, just tons of infomation.
 
When I finished up surfacing the kohler head, I thought about Dons pan and decided to see how far off the oil pan was
.
Well, I will now perform the head truing procedure on my oil pans when they are off.

I was really suprised at how warped they can get, maybe you should check yours Don.


A fellow member sent me a link to a 169
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only to find out it only has a K301 in it
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