Archive through April 01, 2012

[fcurrier]

Never forget a 1!

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

 

[hydroharry]

Frank C - thanks for stepping in there and taking a shot. I've been out of ammunition for a few days. I'm wondering tho, based on Don T's post, if your shot went north instead of west?

Jeremiah - I'm in agreement with Don T to check your points and timing. A good running 149 should actually be fairly smooth at WOT, and at 1000 rpms as well if everything is set up right. And if you're thinking of putting in David Kirk's electronic points kit I'd certainly make sure your engine is in good running order before that. I still like doing the timing the old fashion way using a timing light thru the site hole on the shroud. Besides the points and timing I'd make sure the mounting bolts for the engine itself are tight. That engine will whip side to side if you've got some loose bolts. And you should remove the head and de-carbon all your single cylinder Kohler K's. Kohler recommends it every 500 hours. I believe carbon is the most common issue to cause engine failure - it breaks rings, scores cylinders, and even worse depending on how much it builds up and if it breaks loose.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (ya gotta take care of'm)

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry --You answered one of my questions before I got to ask it-- I wondered why you said you thought carbon was a Kohler Killer (not to be confused with a Killer Kohler).

I thought all engines build up carbon which leads eventually to pre-ignition if not caught. Air-cooled have the issue more than water-cooled.

I also thought that between premium gasoline, Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and low ash oil, one could prevent, or limit the effects of, carbon buildup in the combustion chamber and piston-top.

At your urging I'll probably "pop the top" on the 149, I'm not sure about the spark plug threads anyway.

But my Magnum is running well, especially since I replaced the air cleaner and changed the oil. I also shot some water through the carburetor on Don Tanner and Dennis Frisk's advice.

I'm sure the engine has over 500 hours on it; would you STILL recommend removing the heads? Or, to put my concern another way, how do you make sure the heads seal when you reassemble the motor?

I don't want to create another problem (sealing) when I'm not even sure I have the first one (carbon).

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Hey Guys, any benefits to installing a spring assist on 147 with electric lift, using it for tiller and plow.

 

[digger]

Ray M.
A spring assist with an electric lift is always a good idea.
It helps take pressure off the main drive gear and also helps dampen the shock of implements banging around.

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Charlie, Thanks It seemed like the assist was a good idea.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Here are some pictures of Ryan McShane's latest 169 with the attachments that came with it.

Notice the cylinder on the manual lift lever and the hydraulic lift lever.

Nice and big front balde.

Ryan's first drive on his third 169.

All smiles and he agrees that this things runs sweet.

 

[jbaker]

Ryan nice score,,,,

 

[rmcshane]

Thank you Jeff. First, a big thank you to Marlin for helping me get this critter back to his house. It would not be possible to purchase Cub Cadets without his help

#3 169 is a little rough, but runs excellent. IT has a 12 fin 16hp replacement engine, has lights (a light) hydro lift AND manual lift, came with a homemade blade, CC Original snowthrower, and an excellent 50 inch deck. Its missing the tunnel cover, correct air cleaner, correct muffler, and hour meter, but it has the 0048 machine code and is the earliest cub out of the three. 523155.

Now the question is...what to do with it...

 

[drohacek]

Electrical question guys. I am redoing a 108. Didn't run when I got it. Engine was fine but the harness was toast. I put a new wire harness on, new points, condensor and the engine started and runs great. It would not charge however and after opening the cover on the voltage regulator I could see a wire burned in two. I purchased a new regulator from one of the board sponsors and installed it but as soon as I hook the wires up the engine begins to turn over without the key being touched. If I don't hook up the regulator it runs fine, starts and stops with the key perfectly but when I hook up the regulator it turns over like the key was turned to start position. I even pulled the plug off the back of the ignition and it still turns over. Started generator shorted? Any ideas?

 

[kphill]

David, It sounds like you may have the wires on the wrong post..Here is a wiring diagram. I would check the wires with an ohm meter to make shure you have the right wires going to the right terminals. http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf

 

[tflynn]

I just purchased a 125 and have looked up in the archives for a problem with the front PTO, the blades on the lawn mower allways run. Mine has only one Throw-out lever. The 3 or is it 6 screws... what size are they? Can a 3 jaw puller be used? Can the levers be purchased? The rear-end leaks, is it much of a job to put in new axle seals?
Tom

 

[kphill]

Also Dave there are two different styles of voltage regulators. They will fit all the cubs but you need to be careful were the wires go as the terminals are in different locations..

 

[kphill]

Here is a diagram..

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah C - glad I was able to help some. With regard to removing the heads on your twin cylinder, I've never been inside one so that question should go to one of the guys familiar with them. You can review the Kohler Service Manual for the twinc cylinders as well as see what Kohler recommends. I do know on the single cylinder K series de-carboning is recommended every 500 hours. Low Ash Oil has to help avoid carbon, and MMO gets high marks from alot of guys on here, not sure about Premium gas tho, since there is no lead in it anyway. I also don't know the water spray thru the carb since my fear is any carbon could break off and get caught between a worn/weak ring and the cylinder wall. I've seen some scoring and believe it was from carbon if the rings were still in tack but weak - don't know what else it could/might be - but since I'm not a real mechanic I have to use logic and what others have passed along. As for making sure the heads are flat/true, you can use a piece of sand paper drawn over a piece of glass and should be able to tell if it's true by where it rubs. If upon initial sanding you see areas not touched then the head is warped. If it buffs the engine head then it's likely still true. Do this after you've cleaned the carbon off the head.

Ryan, Ryan, Ryan Mc - a 3rd 169. Geez, they're growing like flowers in Iowa. Are you certain this one has a K341 and not a K321? It would certainly seem odd to have the smaller air cleaner and the muffler off the side like that.

Tom F - you got some work cut out for you. Your PTO clutch does need to be re-built. And no you cannot use a 3-jaw puller to remove the PTO clutch. The 6 set screws are the key to begin the removal, and unfortunately I don't know the size, but when you do find out make sure you use a good strong T-handle allen wrench. You're gonna need the leverage, and you don't want to strip the allen heads. The FAQ should suggest using to PB Blaster before you start the removal, and I think most of the other details will be there as well. You may need a 3-jaw puller to remove the bearing that the PTO clutch pulley is mounted on, but bearing removal isn't until after the pulley is removed. The 6 set screws are the key to start the process. Hopefully you won't have to drill them out. You can get a clutch rebuild kit from one of the sponsors, or even a complete rebuilt clutch if it's necessary. Good luck with your project, and study the Service manual as well. There are pics and other important details in the manual. I've never had to replace rear axle seals but there have been a few other discussions which seem to imply it's not really that hard. It will probably take a few hours and should be described in the Service Manual as well. Most of your expense for the seal replacement job will be the cost of the HyTran rearend fluid, and don't forget to replace the filter as well. Your seal leak is quite obvious but I'd also look for a possible leak at the hydro pump mount. Typically it shows up as being wet where the line from the pump connects to the front bottom of the rearend, but you need to look up higher and see if it's wet. It used to be a $3 cork gasket that took about 4 hours to replace, and again the biggest expense is the cost of the HyTran fluid. So if you're gonna do axle seals you also need to make sure you don't have the pump seal issue. I think there is a FAQ on the pump seal.

David R - Kevin has provided you some good info. Don T just recently had a similar problem and I believe he discovered he had connect the wires incorrectly. If you have a 4 terminal V/R and one of these 4 is marked L or Load then it should not have a wire on connected to it. You should wires connected to B or BAT for Battery, F for Field, and G or GEN for Generator. You should also have a 4th wire that is for ground. Assuming your 108 has the correct wiring harness, your ground should come directly off your negative battery cable to a connector on the V/R. This isn't shown really well in the diagram pic Kevin posted. It does show a ground but doesn't reall show it as having a connetor on the V/R which should be on an xx8/xx9 series. Hope this helps.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but can have their wires crossed and keep them turning over)

 

[mhomrighausen]

Harry B. It is a sixteen horse Kohler with the ten bolt pattern head on it. Somewhere along the line the bigger air filter got lost. I met a gentleman that told me of the tractor's history. Purchased new in Jewell, Iowa. Original owner used it until between 7-9 years ago and installed this engine. The family that just sold it used it up until the sale. The guy I visited with installed the replacement engine.

 

[dsterley]

it smiled at us the hole way home

my buddy that bout the 1250 that were restoring, just picked up a 1650. supper tight tractor, the hour meter read 180 hrs our close to it. the motor mounts are tight the stearing tight, casmetics are rough it lived out side, but defintly worth the trip to get it. ill get some more picture a little later in the week

 

[wcompton]

Would ya believe someone had a 169 in storage for over 6 years with all the implements I'd need? All I had to do was bring it home!

 

[kphill]

It must be 169 season..