Eddie,
What did the 20 mag come out of?
What did the 20 mag come out of?
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
82 Series Engine Replacements
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Charlie,
Gorman rupp trash pump. Low oil warning and shut down. About 2hrs. on the engine. I posted the double vision pics last night of the engine while it was still a pump engine and the 582 I'm trying to install it in. Travis is supposed to let me know what I need to get it attached to the drive shaft. Right now I need everything that goes from the flywheel to the clutch driven plate.
Gorman rupp trash pump. Low oil warning and shut down. About 2hrs. on the engine. I posted the double vision pics last night of the engine while it was still a pump engine and the 582 I'm trying to install it in. Travis is supposed to let me know what I need to get it attached to the drive shaft. Right now I need everything that goes from the flywheel to the clutch driven plate.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Eddie,
A 20hp Magnum engine should have 2 or 3 wires in the harness.
One (usually green) goes to the oil pressure sending unit, if equipped.
One goes to the center pin on the voltage regulator and should be connected to the charge curcuit on the tractor via the ammeter.
The final wire goes to the coil pack under the right side of the blower shroud. This is the kill wire. 12volts should NEVER be applied to this wire. It should be wired to the ignition switch in a way that insures that "Run" is an open circuit and "Off" grounds the wire to the tractor frame.
I'm not familiar with the Briggs 16hp, but if it has points than your wiring will need to be modified and you will need to add a relay for the ignition or use an ignition switch out of an 1811 and rewire under the dash. If it's a mag fired engine than everything should hook up just fine, just trace like wire for like wire and make your connections.
Good luck!!!
A 20hp Magnum engine should have 2 or 3 wires in the harness.
One (usually green) goes to the oil pressure sending unit, if equipped.
One goes to the center pin on the voltage regulator and should be connected to the charge curcuit on the tractor via the ammeter.
The final wire goes to the coil pack under the right side of the blower shroud. This is the kill wire. 12volts should NEVER be applied to this wire. It should be wired to the ignition switch in a way that insures that "Run" is an open circuit and "Off" grounds the wire to the tractor frame.
I'm not familiar with the Briggs 16hp, but if it has points than your wiring will need to be modified and you will need to add a relay for the ignition or use an ignition switch out of an 1811 and rewire under the dash. If it's a mag fired engine than everything should hook up just fine, just trace like wire for like wire and make your connections.
Good luck!!!
Seems like every time I want to work on something of my own someone else changes my plans. Wife says I need to learn how to "just say no". Nevertheless, I'm trying to get back on the 582. Thanks Steve for your input. That info will be useful.
Roland B. Will this diagram that you drew for a 782/mag18 engine swap also work for a 582/mag20 swap?
Roland B. Will this diagram that you drew for a 782/mag18 engine swap also work for a 582/mag20 swap?
rbedell
Well-known member
Eddie:
Here is a 582 Diagram for your serial range. This diagram incorporates the newer ignition switch that kills the magneto from the original motor. As long as you attach the VIO/WHT wire to the "kill wire" of the M-20, you should have no problems.
Here is a 582 Diagram for your serial range. This diagram incorporates the newer ignition switch that kills the magneto from the original motor. As long as you attach the VIO/WHT wire to the "kill wire" of the M-20, you should have no problems.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I'm about ready to install the Magnum 18 into my 582 that currently has a KT-17. I re-drew my KT-17 wiring diagram to work with the M18, and I'd like someone with some knowledge about CC electrical systems to look this over and see if they think it will work. The "KT-17 into 582" diagram is how it's wired now, and everything functions. The "M18 into 582" diagram shows how I think it should be altered to make the Magnum 18 work.
Thanks!
Thanks!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Anyone got a picture of where the remote oil filter is mounted on an M18 in an 82 series? I can't figure out where it should go, and I can't go look at the 1811 'cause it buried.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Thanks again!
Need some advice, suggestions, etc.
1st tractor is a 1711 with a compound fracture in the crankcase.
2nd tractor is a 582 with M-20 kohler.
Also have a Kubota Z482 2cyl. diesel engine.
Thinking about installing diesel in 582 and M-20 in 1711.
1st tractor is a 1711 with a compound fracture in the crankcase.
2nd tractor is a 582 with M-20 kohler.
Also have a Kubota Z482 2cyl. diesel engine.
Thinking about installing diesel in 582 and M-20 in 1711.
Ive seen alot of posts on kt17 to 18 magnum swaps but im having a hard time with finding the specifics on the wiring issues involved. I would like to keep my 682 harness if possible. But would go to an 1810 harness if necessary. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will post some pics asap it is a real gem of a 682.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Chad: The issue with the KT17 to Magnum engine swap is converting the wiring harness to work with an ignition fired by a magneto instead of a coil. A coil, as found on the KT17 motor, requires positive battery voltage (from the ignition terminal on the ignition key switch) to operate; a magneto, as found on the Magnum motor needs only the motor to be turning over to operate, but it requires a connection to ground (preferably activated in some fashion by the ignition key switch) in order to "kill" the motor. (Whatever you do, be sure to have a way of grounding out the magneto while you figure out how to wire Magnum, or not being able to stop it will drive you crazy.)
So, there are basically three options for installed a Magnum motor in your 682:
1. Wire up a separate, manual, "kill" switch to the magneto so you can turn the motor off.
Note: With this option you can leave all the interlocks (seat and PTO switches) in place, but they will not function, because the connection to the ignition is lost (the connector at the coil just hangs there in space); the hour meter will work, though.
2. Wire a relay in series with the magneto. Use a relay that has a Normally Closed terminal (not all 12 volt DC relays have this terminal), connect the magneto "kill" contact to the Normally Closed contact, and wire the Common terminal to ground.
One advantage to this arrangement is that the function of the interlocks is retained, the motor will drop out if the PTO is switched on and the operator attempts to get off the tractor (that is, get out of the seat). The down side is finding somewhere to mount the relay and it requires some above-average knowledge of electrical wiring to get the relay operating correctly. Like I said above, be sure you have a way to kill the magneto until you're sure you have everything the way you want it. Another upside to this option is that you don't have to buy another ignition switch or in any other way modify the existing wiring on your tractor (other than the relay). It is the option I chose when I dropped the M18 in my 782, which I'm told is the same as your 682, except that it has hydraulic lift.
3. The third option is the one which Matt Gonitizke chose below, wire in a new ignition key switch designed for an engine with a magneto-fired ignition. The key for a magneto-fired engine does not have an "ignition" contact at the key, it has a ground contact instead, because, again, the control required for a magneto-fired engine is that one must be able to turn it OFF-it runs by itself, drawing energy for its coil by interacting with field of the magnet rotating on the flywheel of the engine.
It is easy enough to wire the magneto-style key into the circuit: just run a new wire (my preference) from the key's "M" terminal to the magneto and make sure your hour meter and oil light (if you have one) are wired to the Alternator's "R"ectifier terminal at the key switch.
The upside of this arrangement is that there is no relay to mount, or relay-related issues to trouble-shoot (like sticking contacts, burned out coils, mis-wired contacts upon re-assembly, etc., etc.)
The downside, for me, is that I'm not sure how the interlocks for the PTO and seat switches would be retained. I'm sure they can be, because I once owned an off-topic tractor that had both a Magnum motor and an operating seat switch, and I know that Cub Cadets were built with M18 motors and their seat switches worked too. My off-topic tractor used a relay, and I suspect that one would have to be used in the circuit in order to retain the function of the interlocks. (I like the way the later 1811 tractors were wired, they didn't drop out the motor, just the PTO.)
But if you don't care about stopping the driven equipment when you get off the seat, and you don't want to mess with a relay, and you don't mind dropping $40.00 on a new key switch (or you have one lying around), this can be a good option for you.
I hope I've helped. Given the description of your options above, if you tell me which one appeals to you, I'll try to give you specific instructions.
Also, as Roland Bedell would point out, if there were two versions of the 782 wiring, there are likely two versions of the 682 wiring, so we need to know if the serial number is below 720,000; or 720,000 and above.
So, there are basically three options for installed a Magnum motor in your 682:
1. Wire up a separate, manual, "kill" switch to the magneto so you can turn the motor off.
Note: With this option you can leave all the interlocks (seat and PTO switches) in place, but they will not function, because the connection to the ignition is lost (the connector at the coil just hangs there in space); the hour meter will work, though.
2. Wire a relay in series with the magneto. Use a relay that has a Normally Closed terminal (not all 12 volt DC relays have this terminal), connect the magneto "kill" contact to the Normally Closed contact, and wire the Common terminal to ground.
One advantage to this arrangement is that the function of the interlocks is retained, the motor will drop out if the PTO is switched on and the operator attempts to get off the tractor (that is, get out of the seat). The down side is finding somewhere to mount the relay and it requires some above-average knowledge of electrical wiring to get the relay operating correctly. Like I said above, be sure you have a way to kill the magneto until you're sure you have everything the way you want it. Another upside to this option is that you don't have to buy another ignition switch or in any other way modify the existing wiring on your tractor (other than the relay). It is the option I chose when I dropped the M18 in my 782, which I'm told is the same as your 682, except that it has hydraulic lift.
3. The third option is the one which Matt Gonitizke chose below, wire in a new ignition key switch designed for an engine with a magneto-fired ignition. The key for a magneto-fired engine does not have an "ignition" contact at the key, it has a ground contact instead, because, again, the control required for a magneto-fired engine is that one must be able to turn it OFF-it runs by itself, drawing energy for its coil by interacting with field of the magnet rotating on the flywheel of the engine.
It is easy enough to wire the magneto-style key into the circuit: just run a new wire (my preference) from the key's "M" terminal to the magneto and make sure your hour meter and oil light (if you have one) are wired to the Alternator's "R"ectifier terminal at the key switch.
The upside of this arrangement is that there is no relay to mount, or relay-related issues to trouble-shoot (like sticking contacts, burned out coils, mis-wired contacts upon re-assembly, etc., etc.)
The downside, for me, is that I'm not sure how the interlocks for the PTO and seat switches would be retained. I'm sure they can be, because I once owned an off-topic tractor that had both a Magnum motor and an operating seat switch, and I know that Cub Cadets were built with M18 motors and their seat switches worked too. My off-topic tractor used a relay, and I suspect that one would have to be used in the circuit in order to retain the function of the interlocks. (I like the way the later 1811 tractors were wired, they didn't drop out the motor, just the PTO.)
But if you don't care about stopping the driven equipment when you get off the seat, and you don't want to mess with a relay, and you don't mind dropping $40.00 on a new key switch (or you have one lying around), this can be a good option for you.
I hope I've helped. Given the description of your options above, if you tell me which one appeals to you, I'll try to give you specific instructions.
Also, as Roland Bedell would point out, if there were two versions of the 782 wiring, there are likely two versions of the 682 wiring, so we need to know if the serial number is below 720,000; or 720,000 and above.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Somewhere there's a better wiring diagram for using the relay...that is by FAR the easiest cheapest, and best option. It's not difficult to find somewhere to mount it, either. The relay is like $5. I think all the info I printed off on this is back at my parents' place. I'll look sometime this weekend and see if I can find it on my computer. Installing the relay and adding the wires is an hour-long job, tops. Changing out a wiring harness takes longer than that.
dclinansmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
Chad, I just finished installing a Kohler CH730 V twin in my 782. I removed the original KT 17 series 1. I used the original wiring starting where you unplug the engine harness. I used the wire that supplied 12V to the coil to control a relay for engine shutoff. The other wire went to the voltage regulator on the engine. I mounted the relay on the right side of the firewall on one of the studs that hold the fuel tank. Without the relay connected when I turned the ign switch off the carb fuel shutoff solenoid would starve the engine and it quit in a few seconds. I can't post a schematic of the wiring but I can tell you where everything else went if the engine you have uses the standard Kohler wiring plug.
