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#450 Snowblower Gearbox Removal?

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Just got pulled over by the forum-police for posting a link to a live-eBay-auction.

The cop let me off the hook as long as I hit my own thumb with this big hammer...

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Art -
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I hate shipping rip offs. I don`t understand the logic.Cheap shipping cost to the customer should make for more business.
I ordered a Torque converter for my diesel truck out of BC Canada. The old tc weighed 52 lbs and the new was 86 lbs. on the phone I asked the shipping price and he said 60.00$ will get it to me across Canada in three days.I said ok we got a deal if I can prepay to ship the core back at 60.00$. He said I don`t see why not. Well I did check and because of size and weight I would have had to pay almost 170.00. So his helping with shipping cost he got to sell me a 1200.00$ single disk billet low stall torque converter.
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Don-
Just hold tight and don't buy anything until these couplers show up here and we know if they fit or not.

I'll keep you posted.....
 
Home of the Plow Special

Art ; thanks for the good news. Now you just have to drill out the impeller so the sleeve will slip in and weld it fast. I would just run three small beads so I could get it apart the replace that sleeve if ever strips again.But I think I read where it was cold rolled steel , so it should last. more pictures needed when you get it welded in.
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Jim Diederichs

I hope to have a sleeve here soon also. I would like to take the sleeve to my friend the black smith and have him harden the sleeve so it does not break there again. With my luck I would probably strip out the front impeller gear box next
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Well, I got the blower pulled apart today to confirm that the replacement hubs would work....good and bad news.

First the good... The splined coupler has the same outer diameter as the hub of the 2nd stage "fan". GOOD!!

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Now the bad... The coupler is shorter than the original hub.

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By the time the old hub is cut out and the new one put in it's place, the end of this coupler will be below the original roll-pin hole.
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I'll have to cut both the old and new ones in half and weld them together to make a new one that has enough splined section, but is long enough to capture the roll-pin hole of the shaft.
 
Art -
I don`t see a problem
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1. looks to me like the spline coupler is the same length as the old spline. (correct)?

2. So cut the old one out and drill the new spline coupler for the pin for the front gear box shaft !

3. I don`t think the rear gear box spline went very deep into the coupler from new into the second stage impeller.

I think I would heat that coupler and cool it to temper it and make it stronger (harden it some).


I tried to find you to call but had no luck
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Well, I finally found a couple of 'round tuits' this weekend and got the job done. Before tackling this repair I would suggest you either 1) Buy a plasma-cutter or 2) buy a stack of grinder cutting disks, a dremmel, and a SERIOUS amount of stubborn-ness! (Since I'm cheap, I went for the latter of the two.) I'm documenting this repair for anyone who needs to do this.

To start off with, here is the impeller. For those who don't know, the hub in the center of this pic is the culprit. As you can see, the top (front) half has a hole for a roll pin and has a smooth-bore. The bottom (rear) of the hub is splined to accept the male shaft of the gearbox. That splined section is what goes bad and needs to be replaced.

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Below you can the "vanes" of the impeller are cut away from the hub. This took about 4 cutting wheels on a dremmel. I tried to use the dremmel to cut through the base welds, but it just wasn't enough to get through.

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As you can see, a standard angle grinder won't fit in to cut these welds.

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The best way to get at this is to go at it from the back. Look at the grinder-dust all over the garage floor. Not fun!

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Here is the old hub removed from the impeller, compared to the new replacement hub.

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Both the old hub and the new hub is cut in half and welded together. In the end, we're going to keep the right side with the spirol-pin hole and smooth bore, and replace the left (splined) side.

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Three nuts are used to provide the hub the proper height alignment with the impeller-fan prior to welding it back in.

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Then time for some paint to cover up those ugly welds!

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Finally, reassemble the blower and test your work.

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Home of the Plow Special

Art - I`am glad to see that the spline works for you I will need to get one for my 450 as I stripped the spline like you did
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.I have to know if a saws all would have cut the old spline out? I need to have another look and get mine ready for a new spline. Thanks for the write up. I`am sure many who have these 450 snow blowers will be needing that info some day.
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Very detailed repair topped off with great pics! Thanks Art, I knew you could make it work. Nicely done.
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Art, nice job!
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Seeing that you cut the splined hub in half you'll have a spare in the event, shudder to think, that it ever strips out again. Just one question, how did you keep the two halves aligned while you welded them together?
 
Jim-
Thanks for the comments. I really need to credit you and Don for the help. Had Don not found these splines, I'd still be standing here with a shovel, waiting for the next snowflake!

Kraig-
Yes, there is a 2nd half of the spline left over should it ever happen again. Of course, there's so much 'weld bead' in the area now, if it did happen again it would probably have to be "plasma'd" apart.

Keep in mind it took almost 25 years for the first one to let go. I'm thinking the splines probably don't "strip" out as much as they just get "hammered away" and worn down over time. There wasn't any evidence of it being torn apart, but it looked like maybe there was dust as it got worn down. Maybe now that I have it fixed I'll take it easy on the old girl.............NAH!!!!
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Funny you ask about the alignment. It took awhile to find something that would work. Here's what I did. (Mocked up with the remaining parts left-over.)

I found an extra top-link pin from the top-link of a Cat-1 hitch laying around that worked great. That pin must be 7/8" as it fit the 'splined' section perfectly.

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From there you could put the remainder 1" 'pinned' part of it on and get a good eye-ball on where it needed to be.

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I hit it with a few tack welds to hold it from heat-bending, then gave her heck!
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Art - great idea with the pin for alignment . That is using your brain . I hope to get my 450 blowing snow for next winter. I have a friend who has a plasma torch and I think I will let him do the cutting and tig welding. He is a foreman in a welding shop and knows his ****. Probably gona cost me a Quart of some beverage lol.
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Don: If you're buying by the quart instead of the 5th or the milliliter, he shouldn't complain.
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Art: Nice job on the splined shaft and thanks for having the courage to post it!
 

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