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- Brian Branstetter
Got some assembly done on Sunday. Motor is coming together.
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WWII Farmall H
- Thread starter bbranstetter
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Piston asseblies complete. Installed two pistons on Sunday and hope to complete the last two soon. Every thing has fit very well I hope will work even better together.
Brian,
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Thank you Kraig.
Brian, must be exciting to be putting it back together.
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Yes it is. Been waiting a very long time, doesn't even seem real to be honest. I remember this motor sitting in my grandparents barn as long as I can remember, just waiting for the day.
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A few progress photos
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Pistons are all in, looking good!
Cracked the bolt boss on the left. Didn't trim the felt back....thinking I should have done that.
Cracked the bolt boss on the left. Didn't trim the felt back....thinking I should have done that.
Brian, more progress! I see you have a helper.
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Yup, Connie wanted to get in on the gig.
We ended up breaking the lower section of the cast aluminum(maybe zinc alloy?)rear main seal plate. Left too much felt sticking out, is my thinking. I'm guessing that there should only be about 1/16 of an inch sticking out above the holder. Hopefully someone here that messes around with these can tell me,feel free to chime in here guys.
We ended up breaking the lower section of the cast aluminum(maybe zinc alloy?)rear main seal plate. Left too much felt sticking out, is my thinking. I'm guessing that there should only be about 1/16 of an inch sticking out above the holder. Hopefully someone here that messes around with these can tell me,feel free to chime in here guys.
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HAHA!!! New Valves and springs are on order......finally.
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<font size="+2">Looking for information:</font> Not sure what to do about my oil pump. Other than replacing the relief spring & ball and washing it up in mineral spirits what else should be done? The gears and shaft seem tight and I don't see any other reason not to reuse it. Any information or wise words of advice are appreciated.
mfrade
Well-known member
Inspect the gear faces for wear / damage, things like grooving or lines scraped into the actual face of each tooth. Typically there will be some really fine lines / scratches. That's ok. Use a magnifying glass!
Any lines or gouges obviously will warrant replacement. Also place a straightedge along the body of the pump, check the mating surfaces for flatness. Do you have any feeler gauges in the .001 and .002 range? See if you can find any twisting in the casting, If you find 4 or 5 thou., I'd replace it. Also, see what the gap is between the gears and your straight edge, again a few thousandths is expected, to much more and it'll cost you oil pressure.
If you don't have a lapping surface, you can cheat with a piece of glass and some emory cloth, use lots of light oil / WD40 and polish the casting where the cover bolts on. This will also help you see any twist in the casting.
When re-assembling, pack the interior of the pump with a light grease ( #1) this will aid in the pump priming.
If the pickup tube doesn't bolt in, verify it is tight. Many times I set a weld tack to prevent the tube from coming out.
Hope this helps.
Any lines or gouges obviously will warrant replacement. Also place a straightedge along the body of the pump, check the mating surfaces for flatness. Do you have any feeler gauges in the .001 and .002 range? See if you can find any twisting in the casting, If you find 4 or 5 thou., I'd replace it. Also, see what the gap is between the gears and your straight edge, again a few thousandths is expected, to much more and it'll cost you oil pressure.
If you don't have a lapping surface, you can cheat with a piece of glass and some emory cloth, use lots of light oil / WD40 and polish the casting where the cover bolts on. This will also help you see any twist in the casting.
When re-assembling, pack the interior of the pump with a light grease ( #1) this will aid in the pump priming.
If the pickup tube doesn't bolt in, verify it is tight. Many times I set a weld tack to prevent the tube from coming out.
Hope this helps.
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Mike and Earl,
Thank you for your insight! I will look into those things and see what I can find.
Thank you for your insight! I will look into those things and see what I can find.
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HA! Finally got a solid answer on the rear main seal question. Got a reply from Fel-Pro this morning:
Hi Brian,
After some searching (we don't have a service manual for this application on-hand) we have determined it would be best to treat this seal like a rope RMB seal.
Install the RMB seal into the block after soaking it in oil. Rope seals have graphite in them for lubricity while felt does not, so that’s why we suggest soaking the felt in oil. Install the seal into the block cavity first and use a large socket (3/4” or larger) to roll the seal into the groove. Install the crankshaft & carefully trim the seal so it sticks up past the block edge about 1/16”. Install the RMB seal into the RMB cap in the same fashion. Since the felt is oil soaked, no RTV can be applied to the ends of the seal as it will not cure properly. We would apply a thin coat of RTV along the sides of the RMB cap where it joins the block to seal it. Like a rope seal, this type of seal will likely seep some over time.
Hi Brian,
After some searching (we don't have a service manual for this application on-hand) we have determined it would be best to treat this seal like a rope RMB seal.
Install the RMB seal into the block after soaking it in oil. Rope seals have graphite in them for lubricity while felt does not, so that’s why we suggest soaking the felt in oil. Install the seal into the block cavity first and use a large socket (3/4” or larger) to roll the seal into the groove. Install the crankshaft & carefully trim the seal so it sticks up past the block edge about 1/16”. Install the RMB seal into the RMB cap in the same fashion. Since the felt is oil soaked, no RTV can be applied to the ends of the seal as it will not cure properly. We would apply a thin coat of RTV along the sides of the RMB cap where it joins the block to seal it. Like a rope seal, this type of seal will likely seep some over time.
