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Stripping engine

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jhanes

Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
16
displayname
john hanes
Hey guys,
I'm in the process of tearing down my cc 71 and having it blasted and primed. I was woundering would you guys would recomend to use to strip the engine before I prime it. Also, what should I do with all the nuts and bolts. I don't know if I should send them off with the frame to get blasted or do it some other way.
-Thanks
 
This will sound funny....but use OVEN cleaner on the engine. Cleans the grease & grime of course but also takes the old paint off....rinse with water, but You'll have to watch for "Flash Rust" Un-oiled cast iron will rust right before Your eyes if it gets wet. After You get the engine cleaned & rinsed I would "blow dry" it with compressed air or a hair dryer even...then mask all machined surfaces and openings and paint it. I would not take the engine anywhere near a sand-blaster, especially if it's disassembled.

Hardware, nuts & bolts I'd clean with solvent and a stiff bristle brush, Brake-Kleen or carb cleaner, maybe paint thinner/terpentine works well...wire brush with a twisted wire wheel brush in a drill or drillpress to get rust & old paint off...stick them into a sheet of cardboard and prime/paint. You'll have to touch them up after assembly this way.

All this said, I'm not a big fan at all of spray painting Kohler engines. I powder-coat all the shrouds & covers gloss black, leave the aluminum parts bare, paint the crankcase with thinned down satin black paint and a brush and don't paint the head or fins on the cylinder at all.
 
Dennis F: Unconfuse me. In paragraph 1, you said to paint the un-oiled cast iron (non-machined surfaces). In paragraph 3, you said to not paint the finned portion of the block..them fins ain't cast iron?? Or do they just rust??

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
MYRON - Actually rust, paint, dirt, oil....are ALL very good insulators to block or slow heat transfer from the engine to the air, and the slower the heat transfer the hotter the engine runs. And from testing done at the food & chemical processing equip. company I worked at it doesn't take much of anything on the heat exchanging surfaces to make a BIG difference. A thin film of a nickel oxide coating from a reaction with a synthetic oil and the water from an ammonia cooling system attracted a thin layer of oil onto a pure nickel cooling cylinder and reduced heat transfer 40-50% in these tests. The combined layer of oxide & oil on these cylinders never approached 1/16th of an inch thick and most of that was the oil. And pure nickel is a VERY good conductor of heat, almost as good as copper.
THAT being said, most people including Kohler & IHC assemble their engines/tractors and spray the heck out of them with paint and they still last for a thousand hours and more with reasonable care.
These 30-40 yr old Kohler engines all have terribly rusty cast iron cooling fins on the cylinders, short of grit or shot blasting or glass beading them, there's no good way to remove all that rust, so You have to decide on the lesser of two evils when refinishing Your engine depending on what You use the engine/tractor for. And You have to keep in mind that in the end the fins will end up all rusty and dirty anyhow if the engine is used in a "work" tractor. Kohler tried to keep the really HOT portions of these K-series engines separate from the rest of the engine, like the exhaust ports, and provide as much fin area for dissipating heat as economical casting methods would allow. But You compare these engine blocks to air-cooled airplane or motorcyle engines and there's no where near enough fins on the Kohler blocks.
The best solution is probably a thin plating of copper, aluminum, or nickel on the cyl. fins to resist rust, keep them clean from dirt/oil and make sure nothing interfers with air flow. But I don't know ANYONE who's gone to that extreme.
I would like to add some temp. gauges to the K321 I have in My 72, EGT, cyl. head temp, & oil temp just to see where things actually run. I also need a tach to see how much difference engine RPM plays. That all didn't happen two yrs ago or last year.....Maybe this summer! I've played around on the old K241 with My Ray-tech IR temp gun that was in the 72 a couple yrs ago but the EMI from the ignition system "Fried" the chips in it. Expensive lesson!
 
Thanks Dennis...I guess, for me, given that both rust and paint are heat-loss inhibitors, I think that when painting the engine, I'll just lightly paint the fins of the block (not the head). At least they will look good and and I'll know instantly when they are dirty and need cleaning...

I and I'm sure others are certainly interested in the results of those tests when you are able to get to them...keep us posted..

Myron B
 
MYRON - Problem I have is finding ROOM on the 72 so I can see all these gauges I want to add. I've pretty much decided to go with Autometer gauges but would like to use full sweep elec. gauges in 2-5/8" dia. but they don't make everything in the same style of gauges, I've looked at digitals but I'm afraid they won't be legible in bright sunlight. But when I get them on I'll let everyone know what I find out.

Interesting story, on the old K241 I had in the 72 for YEARS, ran 1400 hours before I pulled it for rebuild, the exh. valve was sticking when pulled hard, even on cool days. Even MMO didn't help, I richened up the high end adj. on the carb and it got a little better. When I pulled the engine apart and removed ALL the side covers around the carb. there was at least 3/8" thk. layer of dust/dirt all over the intake & exh. ports and the outside of the box for the valve springs & lifters. This was KILLING the airflow past the ports, reducing & redirecting the airflow and enough heat was concentrating on the exh. valve guide to stick the valve but it would still run only at a greatly reduced power & rpm output. I'd pull the covers on the other side of the engine at least once a year and make sure it was clean but hadn't done the carb side for quite some time since it required removing the carb. I also blow the ENTIRE tractor & engine off every time I get done mowing paying special attention to the grass screen & cyl. head. Doesn't make a difference which tractor I mow with. Year ago I was grading snow with My belly blade on the 70, the snow was mounding up under the clutch & engine of the tractor, the bottom frame cover is missing on that tractor. And it looked ALL the World like the 70 was "over-heating", steam was blowing out the grill, snow was getting sucked in the grass screen and blowing over the cyl. & head and melting & vaporizing. I was freezing My butt off but nice to know My K181 was warm....
 

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