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New tools in the shop!
- Thread starter dkamp
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kendell - I coulda told ya Lincoln bought out Century. You know how the biz works, If ya can't build a better machine ya buy out the competitor! Century was the only one that had infinite variable controls for AMPERAGE and Wire Feed plus mine had a Spot Weld setting with a timmer for the weld duration. Let's see if Lincoln ever goes that route with theirs. Miller sucks in that department too. A machine shop close to me that I use to do some catch up lathe work for when they got behind bought a 185 Millermatic and the settings were either to hot or to cold for welding 1/4" plate. With my Century 225 and Century spool gun I had welded thicknesses ranging from 1/8 - 1".
As for parts ... I had to unhook my cooling fan last summer when it went bad. I hooked up 3 4x4 pancakes in it's place. I checked on a replacement fan but I never ordered it. The cost was a little high too but I figured I had a good enough setup. I just wonder if the circuit board has a sensor to shut down welding if the original fan goes out? I still welded with my setup for a couple of months before it quit feeding wire but it was just nic nac type of welding.
I bought my Spool Gun from www.brweldersupply.com He beat my local supplier by $400 !! I bought my 225 Bobcat local/used with a 16 Onan - BR would have DELIVERED a NEW one with a 20 Kohler for $200 more than what I gave for the used one but I needed it quick for a job. He's like everyone else now, he's on epay now and I'm not so sure about the service or prices now. Oh, he's in MD. I'd sell my Bobcat since I don't use it now but I sure like the 10,000kw generator the way our juicetricity goes out around here.
Oh and your TWECO price ... I paid that several years ago for my 200amp water cooled TIG torch ... and if you're talking about a MIG it's a GUN, TIG is a TORCH.
As for parts ... I had to unhook my cooling fan last summer when it went bad. I hooked up 3 4x4 pancakes in it's place. I checked on a replacement fan but I never ordered it. The cost was a little high too but I figured I had a good enough setup. I just wonder if the circuit board has a sensor to shut down welding if the original fan goes out? I still welded with my setup for a couple of months before it quit feeding wire but it was just nic nac type of welding.
I bought my Spool Gun from www.brweldersupply.com He beat my local supplier by $400 !! I bought my 225 Bobcat local/used with a 16 Onan - BR would have DELIVERED a NEW one with a 20 Kohler for $200 more than what I gave for the used one but I needed it quick for a job. He's like everyone else now, he's on epay now and I'm not so sure about the service or prices now. Oh, he's in MD. I'd sell my Bobcat since I don't use it now but I sure like the 10,000kw generator the way our juicetricity goes out around here.
Oh and your TWECO price ... I paid that several years ago for my 200amp water cooled TIG torch ... and if you're talking about a MIG it's a GUN, TIG is a TORCH.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
KentucK - hey treat yer elders with a little (I know - very little) respect - us 60 year olds have mind farts all the time ..
I actually had the GUN in use tonight.. My baby (110 V) Century has all the same features. Only thing I ever worried about was if the circuit board could get contaminated from shop dust (metal..).. I got a chance to use a water cooled rig a few years ago - if I play my cards right, I'm gonna buy a small Miller (Econotig) in the next few months and set it up with water cooled. Problem I've got with the Linde rig is no remote amp control and it sucks on low current settings.(I've done a bunch of sheet metal with it - like those welds that don't need any grinding).
I had a chance to go to work as a welder up here when I was about 30 - local place that specialized in titanium stuff - they even used to sponsor an Indy car... Decided to stay with computers - probably for the best, but I still love to weld...
I actually had the GUN in use tonight.. My baby (110 V) Century has all the same features. Only thing I ever worried about was if the circuit board could get contaminated from shop dust (metal..).. I got a chance to use a water cooled rig a few years ago - if I play my cards right, I'm gonna buy a small Miller (Econotig) in the next few months and set it up with water cooled. Problem I've got with the Linde rig is no remote amp control and it sucks on low current settings.(I've done a bunch of sheet metal with it - like those welds that don't need any grinding).
I had a chance to go to work as a welder up here when I was about 30 - local place that specialized in titanium stuff - they even used to sponsor an Indy car... Decided to stay with computers - probably for the best, but I still love to weld...
I looked at the Econotig once ... I bought my 460amp at an auction in Cinncinati for for for for for well I'll just say I could have bought 2 for the price of a new Econo 
I did have to replace the old broke torch and make up a water pump / cooler since it came without it. I found a solid brass fountain pump from a friend and used a trans fluid cooler hanging over the backside of the cases' main fan and plumbed it. I put a BIG easy to read temp gauge on it so I can keep an eye on it 'cause I'm only using a 1 gallon can for the sump. ... The temp is showing in the pic, top left corner of the welder. The little gauge below that is a pressure gauge ... now if I just had a TACH hooked to the electric meter ...
I use to lay on my back and weld boat hulls so I put a toggle switch on the torch to turn on/off the arc and I'd have a wedge in the foot pedal where I thought the amperage should be. It worked pretty good that way but man the first time I flipped the toggle switch I got a good jolt! I later (ASAP) put more tape around it ! The little thumbwheel on the newer ones would be nice.
Oh and back to helments (hoods) the yellow one next to the Miller , I've had that fixed lens dinosaur since '74. It's been thrown (and I do mean thrown) all over the shop and only broke the head band once. Don't know the brand of it since it was a used one when I got it.
I did have to replace the old broke torch and make up a water pump / cooler since it came without it. I found a solid brass fountain pump from a friend and used a trans fluid cooler hanging over the backside of the cases' main fan and plumbed it. I put a BIG easy to read temp gauge on it so I can keep an eye on it 'cause I'm only using a 1 gallon can for the sump. ... The temp is showing in the pic, top left corner of the welder. The little gauge below that is a pressure gauge ... now if I just had a TACH hooked to the electric meter ... I use to lay on my back and weld boat hulls so I put a toggle switch on the torch to turn on/off the arc and I'd have a wedge in the foot pedal where I thought the amperage should be. It worked pretty good that way but man the first time I flipped the toggle switch I got a good jolt! I later (ASAP) put more tape around it ! The little thumbwheel on the newer ones would be nice.
Oh and back to helments (hoods) the yellow one next to the Miller , I've had that fixed lens dinosaur since '74. It's been thrown (and I do mean thrown) all over the shop and only broke the head band once. Don't know the brand of it since it was a used one when I got it.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
In about '74, I threw a ball peen hammer. Perfect billiard shot (3 corner) ...Shin took about three months to heal. Quit throwing things heavier than I'd drop on my bare foot. Have had BBs three corner since then (mice in the garage). Can't understand why I keep getting Homer Simpson teeshirts as presents.
Kendell, sounds like you need to make yourself a 5 gallon mouse trap. Take a 5 gallon pail. drill a 1/8" hole on each side just above where the bail/handle connects. Get a medium sized pill bottle drill a hole through the center of the cap and the center of the bottom. Take a piece of 14ga wire about 14-16" long bend a couple of "U" shapes in the middle of it then insert in through the hole in the bottom of the pill bottle. Install the cap onto the bottle with the wire going through the hole in the cap. The two "U"s that you bent should now be inside the pill bottle. The "U" shapes keep the pill bottle in place on the wire. Now, slide one end of the wire, from the inside of the pail into one of the holes that you drilled into the pail then slide the other end of the wire into the other hole. Center the pill bottle in the pail and bend the ends of the wire over. Slather peanut butter all over the pill bottle, pour about 1/2-3/4 gallon of water into the pail (in cold weather you can use RV antifreeze) get a 2' long 1x3, pound a small nail/tac partway into one side of the 1x3 near the end as a hook, hook the nail over the edge of the pail as a ramp. Your trap is now baited and set. Place it where you have the mouse problem. Mine works great! Here's a photo (not mine, mine looks much better) of a 5 gallon mouse trap.
Here's a crude drawing of what the two "U" shapes bent into the wire look like (Though in my crude drawing they look more like two "n")
Here's a crude drawing of what the two "U" shapes bent into the wire look like (Though in my crude drawing they look more like two "n")
Kraig - ya tryin ta trap me aint ya !
Kendell - I use to use a 22 instead of BB, I like takin their head off
or ya could just close up the shop, weld a lot of aluminum and the next day they're laying there dead. That burning oxidation makes a good thick white powder on everything ... including your lungs (and theirs)!
Kendell - I use to use a 22 instead of BB, I like takin their head off
kide
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Kraig - I'll try it (great "new tool in the shop") . We came up with a trick to keep squirrels (aka furry rats) off the bird feeders - we suspend them on a length of fence wire stretched pretty tight between two trees and put two pieces of pvc pipe about a 18 inches long each on each end of the wire. The span is too great for them to cross without stepping on the pipe, which puts 'em upside down quick (just about like the pill bottle in your trap). This has worked for two years now. I give it another year before they get the parachutes done...
Cold up here tonight (not like Minnesota, but in the low teens) - gonna run out to the workshop and do the first test on the 'chute turner for the QA (I dug up a PM window motor out of a Chrysler product, Ken). The QA is in the cccccold barn, so I'll be making it a quick test. (need a smiley with an icicle offa his nose)
Cold up here tonight (not like Minnesota, but in the low teens) - gonna run out to the workshop and do the first test on the 'chute turner for the QA (I dug up a PM window motor out of a Chrysler product, Ken). The QA is in the cccccold barn, so I'll be making it a quick test. (need a smiley with an icicle offa his nose)
KENtucky, I take it you like peanut butter, creamy or chunky? Skippy or Jiffy or Peter Pan or ? or ? or ???
kide
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Speaking of tools...and media blasting.. Here's the cabinet I built a couple years ago. The best idea I had on it was the wheels on the base. It gets rolled out of the way when I don't need it. I use a couple of different products in it - I get my media from TIP Products in Ohio. The current blend is their "First Choice" abrasive - I've had two boxes of it in the cabinet for about a year and a half - took it all out last summer, put it on a tarp to dry it and then "winnowed" it with a big box fan to get rid of the dust. This stuff doesn't seem to lose it's edge as quick as some of the other products and I can use a shop vac for the dust control as it doesn't create as much dust.
Building it...
Some of the wiring - It's got two flood lights (150 Watt), a solenoid air valve (so you can use a foot pedal if ya want) and switched outlet for the shop vac.
It's airtight - if you shut off the two air control vents on the front with the vac on, those rubber gauntlets spring out like two arms grabbing for something..)
Heres the finished product from the back - thats the vac connection - there's a baffle inside to keep the media in the cabinet.
Here's the finished product I figure based on the price of commercial cabinets, I saved at least a thousand bucks - I spent about $200 altogether. BTW - that's an IHC white - bought a couple of gallons when Farm and Fleet went belly up. The hitch has only been used a couple of times - me and the 129 got to runnin' round the yard with the cabinet a little too fast - I put the hitch away before I had an industrial accident..
Building it...
Some of the wiring - It's got two flood lights (150 Watt), a solenoid air valve (so you can use a foot pedal if ya want) and switched outlet for the shop vac.
It's airtight - if you shut off the two air control vents on the front with the vac on, those rubber gauntlets spring out like two arms grabbing for something..)
Heres the finished product from the back - thats the vac connection - there's a baffle inside to keep the media in the cabinet.
Here's the finished product I figure based on the price of commercial cabinets, I saved at least a thousand bucks - I spent about $200 altogether. BTW - that's an IHC white - bought a couple of gallons when Farm and Fleet went belly up. The hitch has only been used a couple of times - me and the 129 got to runnin' round the yard with the cabinet a little too fast - I put the hitch away before I had an industrial accident..
kide
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That Speedway job?? I'll stick with my Hypertherm - it may only push 20 amps, but it's lasted 12 years and I'm guessin' it'll go another 12. I can cut 5/16 plate too (slow, but it'll cut it), but if I need to cut a bunch, I just roll out the old hot wrench..
I wonder if this is half as good as I don't think it is ...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94562
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94562
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- Allen Schumacher
Ken, I just looked thru a 'Surplus Center' catalog but didnt see anything similar. Plenty of cylinders and pumps, but no self contained units. Go for it...you only paid $17 for the plans! This guy may have actually designed something neat. P.S. A Greenly conduit bender makes nice bends the times I've seen it used. A.
Allen - I've had to put 2 CHINA! made jacks on my cherry picker.... I've got plenty of hydraulic cylinders and a 110v hydraulic unit (if I put it back together) and I have the air/hydraulic pump that I have on my shop press and I also have the porta pump on my home-made tractor and I also have a few hydraulic pumps and a wicked 3/4 horse 1/2" drill to turn'em. I ran the Payloader around with the drill running the pump and hydraulic motor I slipped over the trans input. So ... I think I'll pass on anymore CHINA! crap! Think I just decided after I took inventory
Put in a call today for the steel to make the bender, now if my CHINA! milling machine will work I'll start on it tomorrow.
Still gotta decide what radius of 1.25" die I want to order from Pro Tools.
Put in a call today for the steel to make the bender, now if my CHINA! milling machine will work I'll start on it tomorrow.
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- Allen Schumacher
Wish I had been around to see you running your loader on an extension cord! How many miles per amp do you get that way
KENtucky, was this the payloader you moved with the drill? I think you sent me a CD a few years back with a video clip of you using the drill on it to move it. I'll have to dig that CD out tonight.
KENtucky, now that I look at that photo closer it appears to be a screen capture of a video clip and I think I see an extension cord hanging off the right side front.
