Is there an article or a post on the forum that describes in detail how to adjust the neutral and brake position on a hydro? I'm having issues with a 169. The drive indicator can be in the neutral position; but when I step on the brake it wants to move forward. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos that show how to make adjustments but for some reason I can't find neutral position on the slide adjustment hydro pivot mechanism with the brake depressed.
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Neutral/Brake Adjustment
- Thread starter rwoods
- Start date
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
eholmes
Member
One other thing to check is the top of the bracket that controls the speed and direction on the left side of the hydro pump. On my IH682Red it wore to breaking point causing the loss of the damper springs and buttons. I was able to have mine welded by my neighbor and got the springs and buttons from Partstree.com. Also I noticed that Xtreme motorworks has a ready made bracket that can be welded on. Of course the pan has to be removed but not a big deal. Good luck.
One other thing to check is the top of the bracket that controls the speed and direction on the left side of the hydro pump. On my IH682Red it wore to breaking point causing the loss of the damper springs and buttons. I was able to have mine welded by my neighbor and got the springs and buttons from Partstree.com. Also I noticed that Xtreme motorworks has a ready made bracket that can be welded on. Of course the pan has to be removed but not a big deal. Good luck.
Excellent suggestion to check that out. That is commonly called the trunion. Here's a link to the FAQ that has info on it:
Cub Cadet FAQ
There are a lot of joints, connections, rod ends and swivel bushing points to wear and they all add up in the end resulting in the problem you now have.
I just completed the trunnion repair and replacement of the ends and bushings on my 1450 snow thrower rig using parts from (thanks Charlie) and I still have a little slop from the joints and bushings in the tower and related linkage to the control handle. So much so that I can move the control handle about 3/8"+ in either direction from the neutral slot in the dash before anything from the hydro control rockshaft to the hydro will begin to move. In this case, one can see the shaft moving back and forth in the worn bushing welded into the left side of the tower.
These will/can only be addressed by complete removal of the tower and enclosed linkage for rehab.
Not going to happen this winter any more, maybe next year when I will be contemplating a restoration on this machine.
I just completed the trunnion repair and replacement of the ends and bushings on my 1450 snow thrower rig using parts from (thanks Charlie) and I still have a little slop from the joints and bushings in the tower and related linkage to the control handle. So much so that I can move the control handle about 3/8"+ in either direction from the neutral slot in the dash before anything from the hydro control rockshaft to the hydro will begin to move. In this case, one can see the shaft moving back and forth in the worn bushing welded into the left side of the tower.
These will/can only be addressed by complete removal of the tower and enclosed linkage for rehab.
Not going to happen this winter any more, maybe next year when I will be contemplating a restoration on this machine.
