My new 1572 diesel

[nbextermueller]

I've already upgraded to a CV driveshaft! So I agree with the drop in if that thing.

I didn't have to deal with the starting mechanism that the diesels have in the driveshaft.

 

[kshultz]

Didn't get a chance to work on it last night. I had to help my boy with his 3rd grade math homework. It was easy except for my son making it a 2 hour ordeal.

Maybe tonight.

 

[bpientka]

If I remember correctly when I had a disconnect clutch on my 1512. You need to remove the front spiral pin. This allows the entire driveshaft to slide forward just enough the clear the back.

 

[kshultz]

Thanks Bernie. That's what it was looking like I needed to do. They are such a hassle. I need to get one of those handy pin removal tools.

 

[bpientka]

Yep. Lots of free space on the front pin (not!). I have a set of roll pin punches I picked up at Sears. I found an old socket that fit the end of the punch. I also had a cheap extension (HF). This extension connects to the socket. Then the socket to the punch. A quick wrap of electrical tape to hold it all together. Now you can drive the punch from the outside the tractor. After a few hits the extension deforms and is no longer fit a socket driver.

 

[toconnor]

I would just slide the engine forward to get to it.
Check the driveline over real good. Vibration may have caused that seal to fail. I'm a southern boy now and the first thing I do is remove that unbalanced disconnect clutch and make a new shaft on my $50 drill press. I don't have to start my tractor when it is -50 outside.
The CV system is the way to go but IIRC it will lighten the wallet about $300.
I would also look at getting a set of rear braces installed on that machine too. Nice smoker!

 

[kshultz]

Boy did I open up a can of worms!!
Well I got the “spiral” pin out which turned out to be a roll pin. So that tells me that someone was in here tinkering around when they shouldn’t have been.

The drive shaft came out smoothly then.
I found some damage on the front of the drive shaft. This doesn’t concern me because I can have that fixed.

Next I take the casting off that holds the seal and needle bearing. Be careful not to remove this piece as you take it off. (Green arrow)

While inspecting the seal the needle bearing falls apart in my hand. This is bad!

I then inspect the 5/8” shaft and it shows wear.
About .610 where the bearing rides and .625 on each side of it. The wear is only on one side of the shaft. I figure this was caused by the wear on the front of the drive shaft I’m guessing. (keep in mind the reading on the calipers is only close because I’m trying to hold it still and take a pic at the same time)

This is the bushing that the front of the drive shaft rides on.

And here it sits.

 

[kshultz]

So I guess I need a new shaft? Or maybe another pump with a good shaft?
In the mean time do you suppose if I fixed the front of the dive shaft and put a new bearing and seal on would it make it a few years until I got another pump with good shaft? Just thinking.

I really want to get this thing back in action.

 

[mmasheris]

Find a newer pump with a threaded input shaft so you can use the newer velocity joint just make sure it is for a super out put gear is smaller

 

[bpientka]

Sorry things going down this bad path. Based on the wear up front this is not a recent problem. Almost looks like they put a new bronze bushing onto a bad driveshaft. Would think new driveshaft and new front bronze bushing.

I have no suggustions on the pump end (way above my knowledge).

 

[nbextermueller]

So I assume if one wanted to replace that shaft, you'd have to pull the rearend, remove and spit the pump?

That doesn't sound like a quick weekend job.

 

[kshultz]

I think I have a lead on a pump with a good shaft. That would mean keeping the original set up with the rag joints. I'm OK with that, and I'm sure it's gonna be the less expensive way to go. I'll keep you updated.

 

[bpientka]

It might be the picture but that roll pin looks bigger in diameter than the normal spiral pin. Also the hole in the driveshaft seems large. I wonder if the PO drilled the bracket and drive shaft for larger pin?

So you might have to add a driveshaft bracket to your replacement parts list.

 

[kshultz]

Bernie,
I was thinking the same thing. I never did measure it. I'll check into it though.
Thanks.

 

[kshultz]

Well here's an update.
I should be getting the good pump in any day now.

I have the fenders off and the drive shaft repaired.

I also got a few goodies from CC Specialties.

I also got a couple of free extras.

Now I know I've seen these before here on the forum, but I can't figure out what they are used for. I thought it has something to do with changing the oil or Hytran.

I guess I'll just stick 'em here until I figure it out.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Nice progress!

Wow, you look like Mr Tumnus from the Chronicles of Narnia.

 

[kmcconaughey]

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<center>Shultzie, I think you scared everyone away! That or I did...

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[kshultz]

Yeah, thanks Kraig.

Update:
I got the replacement pump in on Friday and worked on it yesterday. It all is going smooth so far. (Knock on wood) I'm busy today so I won't have time to work on it, but I plan to get back on it this week in the evenings.
Hopefully I'll be blowin' black smoke by the weekend.

 

[digger]

Shultzie,
Just so you'll know, from now on when I get emails asking what those red funnel looking things are, I just reply with your picture!

 

[kshultz]

Oh no...