I've gotten the engine torn down to the cam and balance gears! I've read to not reinstall the balance gears? Where is the best place to source rebuild kit for a oversize parts? This one already has a .010 piston .
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
K301 rebuild
- Thread starter Tim Bowman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I've gotten the engine torn down to the cam and balance gears! Do I need to pull the cam and govenor gears for a complete overhaul? I've read to not reinstall the balance gears? Where is the best place to source rebuild kit for a oversize parts? This one already has a .010 piston .
CC specialties at the top of the page can help you out.
Yes, remove the cam, governor & the complete valve train.
Do not loose the shime behind the governor and on the cam pin.
I would plan on replacing the governor gear as well.
Pitch the balance gears
The cam pin comes out only one way, refer the the FSM for complete disassembly instructions as well as reassembly.
Bag and tag all parts upon removal.
Take the block and crank to the machine shop and have them tank it check it out before you order parts. They will advise you what size piston and rod you need to get.
Most rebuild kits can be ordered w/new valves and guides. I always go that route and have the machine shop install the guides and lap in the new valves
Do it right....and you do it once.
Good luck?
Do not loose the shime behind the governor and on the cam pin.
I would plan on replacing the governor gear as well.
Pitch the balance gears
The cam pin comes out only one way, refer the the FSM for complete disassembly instructions as well as reassembly.
Bag and tag all parts upon removal.
Take the block and crank to the machine shop and have them tank it check it out before you order parts. They will advise you what size piston and rod you need to get.
Most rebuild kits can be ordered w/new valves and guides. I always go that route and have the machine shop install the guides and lap in the new valves
Do it right....and you do it once.
Good luck?
Um.....
Tim, why do you have 3 threads open on the same subject???
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Dave, a moderator could quickly clean up that little discrepancy. I guess we've all been new to a site and learn to navigate its quirks. Maybe I've got this boosted back to the top of WHAT'S NEW. Hopefully, Tim will come back to look and with a great, concerted effort, his rebuild questions can be answered. 
I have purchased several kits on ebay from bakt4kids and have not had any issues with them ! I do not replace the balance gears when doing a rebuild .
I deleted the one thread with no replies and merged the other two into this one.Dave, a moderator could quickly clean up that little discrepancy. I guess we've all been new to a site and learn to navigate its quirks. Maybe I've got this boosted back to the top of WHAT'S NEW. Hopefully, Tim will come back to look and with a great, concerted effort, his rebuild questions can be answered.
Thank you ! Sorry for being a noob! Got all the parts dismantled ,cleaned best I cud with soap and water, dried and oiled. Took everything to a machine shop that micked bores and journals and all are within the specs. valves need cleaned and lapped. His recommendation was new rings and gaskets and put it back together! Its already at .010 . I checked a ring squared it the bore and had .040 end gap.
Looking for recommendations for parts and gaskets? I need a set of rings for a K301 12 hp with a .010 oversize piston and a complete gasket set. The exhaust valve was rough at the seat so i've lapped it some but should I try to replace it or keep lapping till smooth? Thanks for the help!
All the parts you will need from Charlie----CC Specialties
user 19791
Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2023
- Messages
- 5
I don't have much experience with the balance gears. I would think they are there for a reason, like to keep vibrations down. But the people that have used them with and without the gears should know from their experience. As far as rebuilding I have always replaced everything. Rod, piston and rings, valves, crank bearings, governor gear and seals. As mentioned earlier, do it right, the first time. You never know if the rod or piston has a hairline fracture that could fail your newly rebuild. I have rebuilt a Kohler K241 14yrs ago and it is still going with no issues. I have taken all my blocks to my local NAPA machine shop and they have done top notch work. They do their work and tell me what I need. When I get the kit, I will have them replace the valve guides if needed and they take care of the valves. Then I do the rest. If you know the history of the engine, you could decide on replacing the rod and piston. Kohler parts are pricey and some people swear by going OEM parts for everything. That's perfectly fine if your budget can afford it. Oh and don't forget assembly lube. Don't be shy about it either. And proper break is most important.
rfunk
Well-known member
I used a recommended retired machinist and ordered what he told me from Charlie for my 149. Not sorry!
HKCooper44
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2023
- Messages
- 123
Measure the bore at the bottom to be sure it's actually .010" oversize!
user 19791
Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2023
- Messages
- 5
Good machinists are sometimes hard to find. Glad things worked out for you
mjame
Well-known member
Moving forward with the rebuild! Now I would like to repaint the engine back close to the oem yellow. Are there any preferred high heat enamels that are close to original?
HKCooper44
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2023
- Messages
- 123
When I rebuilt my 1964 K241 in 1986, I sprayed everything (block, shrouds, baffles, fuel tank, generator, etc.) with IH Cub Cadet yellow (I forget the code number), and it has lasted to date. You can't paint the head, though. You can use a high heat aluminum, silver or black paint, like VHT, on the exhaust elbow, but even that won't last too long.
Didn't we have this discussion not long ago? Anyway, in my humble opinion and experience high heat and VHT paint are just a fraud or sham. I've used spray can paints and automotive paints on engines for decades and it lasts just like hi temp paint and burns off near the exhaust ports just like hi temp paint. I couldn't really tell the difference.
snicklas
Well-known member
I’d also bet, back in the day, IH used the same paint on everything…. If it was yellow, it was the same paint… white, the same….
I’ve even seen pictures where there is yellow paint on the S/G Belt…. And the runs/sags…..
If you have “restored to factory” a Cub Cadet, if the paint is “perfect”……. Then it’s not factory…. LOL
I think, on the tractors that had yellow engines, IH painted those, I’ve seen pallets of yellow engines, complete - tanks, S/G, PTO, Muffler ready to drop in. Quietline on, I think the black came from Kohler…. Same as the replacement “crate” engines, they were black… we have a 149 with a black engine in it, and I know it’s a replacement, we put it in, in the early 80’s…. it is exactly what the couple of NOS ones are, that are for sale on here.
Again, I’m fairly sure, all that paint came from the same vat…. Nothing special…. I’d use the same paint you are painting the rest of the tractor with…. There are 40 - 50 year old tractors with the original yellow paint on them.
I’ve even seen pictures where there is yellow paint on the S/G Belt…. And the runs/sags…..
If you have “restored to factory” a Cub Cadet, if the paint is “perfect”……. Then it’s not factory…. LOL
I think, on the tractors that had yellow engines, IH painted those, I’ve seen pallets of yellow engines, complete - tanks, S/G, PTO, Muffler ready to drop in. Quietline on, I think the black came from Kohler…. Same as the replacement “crate” engines, they were black… we have a 149 with a black engine in it, and I know it’s a replacement, we put it in, in the early 80’s…. it is exactly what the couple of NOS ones are, that are for sale on here.
Again, I’m fairly sure, all that paint came from the same vat…. Nothing special…. I’d use the same paint you are painting the rest of the tractor with…. There are 40 - 50 year old tractors with the original yellow paint on them.
Last edited:
