• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

International 300U

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well the 300U purchase never happened. Would not drop price. I have been looking for a used tractors and tomorrow I will be picking up a 1952 farmall cub. No attachments but shop has gone through it and it runs really well. So it looks like my next project will be starting soon. As of right now I know it needs a rear main seal leak. Which will be the first project then move onto changing all the fluids. Photos to come!
 
962B6591-1B95-44BC-8C3C-468C908939B5.jpeg

Picked it up today. Drove onto the trailer!
New front tires and tubes
New aftermarket carb
New starter solenoid
New head gasket
Head machined flat
New gas tank bowl and shut off
New points
 
Love these machines! Well the transmission fluid looks gross.
16CBCE7F-A8D9-4EFB-80A2-CC073E421BB4.jpeg
D084A5F5-CE83-457E-B6A3-C034F9FF6B1C.jpeg
 
That Baby poop brown stuff means the transmission oil was between 1/4 and 1/2 water. Hopefully the bearings kept enough oil on to protect from the water. Try to get as much of that brown goo off everything as you can. Letting tractors sit outside is SO hard on them. They were never made to shed weather like cars and trucks can. I leave my new $45,000 pickup sit outside but my old Cub Cadet 70, 72, 982, and two FARMALL'S spend every day & night in the shop under a roof.
 
Your giving me the fever to get started on mine. I have a 1948 and 1049. I decided to restore one and just clear coat the other lol. This one needs a rebuild but my granddaughter loves to ride it.
 
BERNIE - I agree with Greg, hard to tell if hyd hoses are bad until the engine is running and pumping oil. There is steel wire braid inside those hoses, that's where their strength comes from, the rubber covering means very little.
The rear main seal on my Super H has dripped oil for 50 years, and it's only 67 yrs old. When I overhaul the engine it will get fixed. The clutch could be O-K, once again, hard to say without engine running. Dad had a FARMALL Super M-TA and a FARMALL 450, both had TA, you push clutch in, still can't pull trans out of gear, pull TA lever back into the low side, transmission slips right out of gear. HAVE THE OWNER'S MANUAL IN HAND when you adjust both clutch and TA. In my opinion, pretty good chance the clutch is fine, the '51 FARMALL M out in my shop still has the factory installed clutch in it and it was Dad's loader tractor since it was brand new. IH used ROCKFORD clutches, they're TOUGH.
The 350 utility has disc brakes, but WAY different than car or truck disc brakes, it has two discs with an expander between them inside a cast iron housing, friction material on both sides of the discs, and a machined & polished iron friction surface on the inside of the cast iron cover, the a friction disc, then two expander plates held together with springs, another friction plate, and the last machined and polished cast iron friction surface. The cover is only held on with 5 capscrews, loosen the adjusting bolt completely and remove it, then the entire cover. Inspect everything. There's three 1 inch diameter ball bearings between the expander plates, make sure the balls are smooth and round, make sure the grooves they roll in are smooth, and upon assembly coat the grooves with a kinda thick coat of anti-sieze, about 1/8 inch is fine. New balls are rather cheap. The 3 coil springs around the expander need to be strong, they were $12 each last time I bought them. Set of four friction disks were $64, $16 per disc.
There's three good sources for wire harnesses, Brillman, Porch, and Ag Services, they probably have your replacement switch too. The ignition points and condensors sold today are all imported, and are crap. I have read on-line that Standard Automotive still makes conventional ignition parts that are probably as good as you will find. The points, condensor, and spark plugs in my 1954 FARMALL SUPER H, the next model older than this 300, I bought and installed sometime in the 1980's. I hadn't run it since last June or July, but if I had remembered to turn the gas on, it would have started and ran on the second revolution last Saturday. Back then I could still get genuine International Havester parts. You can probably still buy parts from a Case/IH/New Holland dealer, but hard telling where they were made. But I'd trust them more than a lot of the junk offered for sale other places.
Not intending to steal this thread, but I have a IH 340 Utility that I "inherited" when we bought our property from in-laws. It was converted to 12V and I have starter problems, but that's another story.
I tried to engage the TA and it wouldn't go into low. The clutch was WAY out of adjustment. I went through the procedure in the I&T manual and now the clutch and clutch brake works, which helps with shifting, but still can't the TA shift into low range. I suspect that the TA friction plate is rusted to the disk, requiring a split if I want it to work (and if I can find the parts).
 
Almost done with cub!
 

Attachments

  • 836E7072-74E0-45B9-AAC7-F868C7761350.jpeg
    836E7072-74E0-45B9-AAC7-F868C7761350.jpeg
    160 KB · Views: 0
  • 3CE4EF15-560A-4CC0-AC79-CB71800810EB.jpeg
    3CE4EF15-560A-4CC0-AC79-CB71800810EB.jpeg
    153.4 KB · Views: 0
Back
Top