IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[dross]

Dennis, Whats the link? Top of the page says, "Lets hear about your discoveries"

 

[gmcchesney]

Dave & Dennis I looked onto the R/C pullers a couple of years ago, there not cheep by no means. You can put allot of money into a multi engine nitro burner puller. Always wanted to do that but the garden tractors take up allot of time and money in the summer months. The price of fuel this summer is going to be hard on the budget pulling a 4 place trailer with an old 460 Ford. But ha we don't do munch all winter and just love to travel durning the summer to pulls.

 

[srhamey]

I have heard that NQS Stock Alt. is going to Alcohol fuel next year. Is this true? Is so, what is the reason behind that?

 

[dfrisk]

The site is http://members.tripod.com/~NMMTPA/
Last OS engine We bought for the 4WD buggy, Mugan MBX-4, was the RZ-B '99 Edition, rated about 2.3 HP at 32,000 rpm. We got a deal on it at $250. SIX of those probably wouldn't be necessary.... but We could sure tell the difference between the junky old Ofna that only made about 1-1/4 hp. I think the little Nova Rossi/TOP .12-size We had made more HP than that Ofna. One magazine dyno tested one to an actual 1.1 HP. I think I've still got a .12 cid OS CV sitting around with an O'Donnell head on it. I did notice none of the pullers ran tuned pipes. They're giving up quite a bit of HP doing that. You look at the pipes the Boat guys run...They're the ones who really lean on their engines. They have to rebuild after EVERY run

 

[dross]

Dennis, thank you, thats some neat stuff.

 

[ocurrens]

I am getting started on a 16hp SA engine. I have seen references to the fact that the cylinder bore is offset some. So my question is "If I bore the cyl. +030" DO I need to have it offset toward the piston ? " and "If so how much offset ?" I guess my last question is " Are most people doing this or is it not enough of a difference to make a difference ?".... I guess these answers could be a guarded secret, but I hope not. Just trying to Learn here and do the right things.

THANKS, Thanks, thanks

 

[ocurrens]

In my first question post I stated the offset was towards the piston, WHAT I meant was the piston cylinder bore offset towards the valves. Is this .010" since the rod and piston have a .010" offset?

 

[jabram]

O.C., if no one that knows the answer is going to answer, I will try to help.

I don't know what offset anything has in the stock configuration, but theoretically, you could offset your bore toward your valves by 1/2 the distance of your overbore (.030" / 2 = .015" offset. One variable I do not know is how far you can offset the bore before having a problem with either crank alignment or breakout. The valves can also be moved towards the piston. Both these are done to increase compression and improve flow. But if you are going to be serious enough to go to this extent, I would call an engine builder and work with them.

 

[rclark]

JOE,
I answered and am helping O.C. through private E-mailings. Your input is also appreciated. Just wanted you to know somebody is answering his questions....

THANKS FOR THE HELP
R CLARK

 

[jabram]

Thanks Rick, We will need to talk, the summer is close, my new house is almost done, and my puller is in a pile without a motor. We move in this weekend/next week and I am starting to see the light of a 12hp Stocker or Mayyyyybeeeee a 30 cube to be built out of the 122 I have in a pile.

thanks,

Joe

 

[dvogt]

O.C. , sorry for not taking care of your question but just got back from vacation of 10 days in FL. , If you check how thick your block is you can move the cylinder over closer to the valves , you can also move the valves toward the cyl. to make a smaller chamber in the head. I've seen a few engines that were sleeved , the sleeve was moved so close to the valves is actually came through the side of the cylinder toward the valves. you would not have to offset the rod or the piston to move the cylinder.


Scott , NQS wil be alky only in the SA class next season. the problem of illeagal gas or race gas has become a very big problem. some additives were very harmful to your health and are extreamly difficult to test for. Alky on the other hand a water test & a hydrometer & you are done. we may have other tests available to perform on questionable fuels

Denny , cool , I had one of those when I was a kid.

Rick feel free to post info here so others can learn. . post your adds for in the For Sale Sectioon please.

 

[bmcmeen]

Rick L. -

You were doing fine until you said:

<BLOCKQUOTE><HR SIZE=0><!-Quote-!><FONT SIZE=1>Quote:</FONT>

MOST INFORMATION IS FREE !!!!!<!-/Quote-!><HR SIZE=0></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds like an ad to me...

 

[srhamey]

Don,

I thought it was something like that. Fuel has been an issue for years, hope this evens the field. Bad news is I don't know anything about it.


(Message edited by srhamey on April 22, 2003)

 

[rmull]

My 1408PS with MSC Clutch release problems has been worked out.

I replaced the flexdriver (off a 1200) with a solid driver (126 style) and it releases very well now.

How much play should I have on the clutch release arm before it hits the bearing? Right now I am almost riding on the bearing.

 

[turbo diesel cubs rock my world!]

Ryan,try to get 1/8" to 3/16" free travel on the clutch pedal. You do not want to have any preload on the clutch or bearing as you are well aware. Bring your tools along because you will likely need to readjust frequently at first as all the parts "settle in"

 

[rmull]

I wanted to thank Jim D. in 'public' here for all the help on the 1408 Plow Special, we also swapped quite a few emails on the subject of getting the tractor set up.

After plowing in 2nd gear (too slow) and in 3rd, which was a little fast for anything except for that dry sandy field, I would like to change the gearing in my tranny to have 3 plowing gears I think.

1st would be between the stock 1200 1st and 2nd, and could be used for mowing, 2nd faster than stock 2nd, and 3rd slower than stock 3rd.

Any ideas what kind of gear combos I am looking at? I mainly will plow with the tractor, but will probably attend a couple local pulls just for fun.

I am open to anything, gear reduction overdrive/underdrive, and in the future, I may end up putting a larger motor in the tractor, (500cc twin?)so I will probably end up putting at least a couple SuperCub tranny parts in.

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - Just keep surfing the Super Cub site. There's a chart with everything they offer for wheel speeds. Like Wyatt & I have said You need a transmission with a 1-1/2, a 2nd, and 2-1/2 speed. I'd recommend the overdrive.... and possible the 4-speed conversion if You think You can live without reverse. I would think You could splice in a wide ratio T-5 tranny in as an aux. tranny in Your tractor. With that and the 4-speed You'd have reverse (in the T-5) and twenty forward gears to choose from. Speed for everything.

 

[wcompton]

Ryan-
FWIW in college we made a pulling tractor using a 17T, 18T, and 19T pulling gear plus reverse. We bought the gears through True Gear & Spline in Canada. There's a couple things you have to do, none for the faint of heart (they're not as hard as they are time consuming in the machine shop). First, you'll need the 4-speed shifting forks from SuperCub, nice pieces if I might say so. You'll also need to either buy or make the spacers for the lower shaft. Pretty easy. BUT then you'll need to make (at least we did) your own shifting rods and machine the detents. It's not too bad, but we made two pair before we got it right. You'll have to change the reverse idler so it sits towards the back of the tranny, while you're in there you'll probably need to grind some out of the front of the case where the smaller gear for third sat in the front, I think we put the 19T gear in front and just removed about a quarter-inch of material to make the lower gear fit. ALSO, while you're at it you'll probably want to get the aftermarket top shaft.

Also, note the design of the transmission, lower gears closer to the pinon gear, higher towards the front, avoid putting your first gear towards the front as you're putting more torque through more of the pinon shaft.

 

[mdfisher]

Don Vogt the newly elected president of Buckshot racing as recently had a photo session with him and now has autographed pictures (Dons autograph)that he is paying $1.00 each to any person ordering one .
Please send all orders to Don and he will get picture and $1.00 right out to you.

Mike,Dons #1 fan.

 

[dvogt]

Gee thanks for the publicity. but you have the double ought Buckshot racing shop in your backyard don't you? thats what your UPS man tells me ;-)