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gmcchesney

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Dave, a friend of mine has put in a John Deere 2 cly distributor in his kt17 Kohler and it works great. How he did it I don't know but will take a look at our first pull.

Don, I just had the Jacbos laying around the shop and just thought I would use it on the Kohler. I have used it for 3 years now but would never go out and spend $500.00 to buy one for a garden tractor.
 
Dave I guess if I was going to do something I try it electronicly. you would be able to control it then. we had a VW distibutor on a briggs once when we first started pulling. its hard to control the flyweights to get what you want.
 
Well. We took the IH 682 (Kawasaki water cooled twin)to its first pull (AGTPA) this weekend and pulled it in the 1100lbs Stock Altered class. We were the test puller and after a 156.5ft pull (200ft track) we decided to decline the pull and drop and pull again. We were the last puller in the class and decided to move some weight around on the tractor. By the time we pulled the track conditions had changed and we pulled only 136ft. The sad thing is that had we kept our first pull, we would have won by 3.5ft!!! The eventual winner pulled 153ft. We took 4th. I guess mistakes will happen. I just thought we could do better but it did not work out that way. You could say, at least, we won a moral battle in that we really took 1st place but gave it up.....not bad for a brand new tractor and someone that had not pulled competitively for over 20years (my father). We definitely put the fear into the ranks.
7099.jpg
 
Hey Pullers!

I have a Midwest Super Cub clutch, that I can't get to release. Wideframe, adjusting bolt is tightened all the way down, little spring behind is completly compressed. . what do I do?

I can see the release arm is flexing some, but is there something else I can do? Different arm bolt?
 
probably have to shorten the rod. I think they use the throw out bearing with out the grease zerk spacer in there. so that changes the throw.
 
Thanks Don! Do you build your own clutches? If so, what do you use/spec them to?

I have a friend who uses a VW spring of some sort on his clutch, everything else stock on 102 for pulling in 10hp stock class. Gets nice grab and wheelies, of course he has a aluminum front grill as well.

I know the Super Cub Clutch is WAY overkill for plowing, but I only get a bonus once a year.
 
RYAN - Just think of that little SuperCub clutch as your own little DYNA-LIFE clutch! I know the pressure spring in My 72 is the Factory spring. Teaser spring & T/O bearing were replaced a couple times. For what they do and what they're made from they are AMAZING.
 
I use the 4 puck super cub clutch.I make my own drive shafts & clutch linkages & levers. there are alot of pullers who use the 180 mm VW clutch .
 
Hey guys, thought this would be the best place to ask this...
I'm rebuilding the clutch in my 124. I don't pull with it, but would like to beef it up a little. How many lbs is a stock spring? Will an 800lb spring make it a lot harder to depress the clutch pedal and will an 800lb spring alone do much for me? Basically I'm going to be using the tractor to push dirt around, plow and throw snow and mow the back field etc.
Thanks.
 
Mark you'll get sick of a 800 pound spring fast. I think Rick Goodman has a nice spring that replaces the stock one which is around 500

(Message edited by dvogt on April 04, 2003)
 
When I went out to Columbus this year I noticed that alot of tractors had two crankcase vents. Is there any advantage doing this? I tried it by taping a hole where the pin that holds the governor goes. Then using a fitting with a hose and check valve. There seems to be allot of oil coming out and making a mess, I guess that I could mount a catch can for this. Will this take away oil from the lifters?
Gary
 
you can put 2 breathers on easy , don't really know that you need them , you don't say what you have or what class you run. if you do add a 2nd breather you'll want to put a PCV valve inline
 
Don, this is on my super stock tractor and I guess that a PVC valve would be the same as a check valve. I made it so that I can put a plug in the fitting and shut the 2nd one off. One time a couple off years ago I had pinched the breather hose between the hood and frame and didn't know it. That was my best run of the year but blew the filler plug out and what a mess that made.
Gary
 
HELLO ALL,
If anyone here is interested in some really handy information for pullers. I have lots of good information on rebuilding almost every part of the CUB for pulling just e-mail me and let me know what your needs are.

THANKS ALOT,
RICK CLARK
[email protected]
 
Rick I would assume this is all free information ?

Gary as long as it allows air out but not in it would work . otherwise you are defeating the purpose. although there are a couple engine builders that don't use them and it does not seam to affect anything.
 
Hi everyone. Enjoy reading all the post.I hope you guys can help me. I am building a 16 for S/A and was wondering if I should relieve the block around the valves. I was reading a book on flathead fords and that is what they are doing. I think if you take out to much you will lose alot of compression. Help me if you can. Thanks to all.
 
Neal , yes & no. You can depending on several things . 1: how far you pop the piston out 2:location of your top comp. ring 3: your valve seat angles 4: where your dump area in the cylinder head is located.

from there you can blend it accordingly. how much you ask? its best to have a flow bench to put it all together but since most pullers don't have access to a flow bench removing material in moderation and running it is probably the best bet
, you really want to stop when your flow no longer wants to rise. other wise you are basicly lowering compression.

this is probably one of the toughest areas to talk about since so many thing have to work together to get good air flow.
 
Thanks for the response Don,and no I don't have a flowbench.I am poping the piston out .062 and the ring is 0.200 down. As for the valve seats, they are cut at a 45 degrees. I don't know what you mean by the dump area. You will probably think I'm crazy but my friend works in a machine shop and he is going to mill a billet head for me. Working with a tight budget and can't afford alot of shop time. Thanks again Neal
 
HEY DON! - Son sent Me a link to a web site the other day I was checking out early yesterday AM. About the National Micro-Mini Truck/Tractor Puller's Assoc. based down in Franksville, WI. I checked out their photo albums. Some of the tractors were in the unlimited class....the pulling vehicles resemble the NTPA Unlimited Modified tractors, multiple engines of unlimited size. SIX .21 CID engines on one of them... Tractors weigh a maximum of 6 pounds in that class, track is finished plywood 30 ft long, silicon rubber tires, and can drag over 500# of weight on the transfer sled! Six decent .21 cid R/C engines should make as much HP as a stock K-241 or 301 Kohler....6 X 2+HP...all on a vehicle 16" long or less. Travis posted a pic of a "Stock Class tractor" He had couple months ago. Not CC pulling related but I thought it was pretty neat anyhow. (small voice echoing from afar...) "If Your build it... someone will Pull it in Competition"....Well.... I gotta go dig thru some old Boxes of R/C junk I put away last summer...
 

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