Ignition condenser.

[Ronnie Sellers]

Hey guys I've got a question.
I'm haven't problems with my 86 Cub Cadet.
The ignition points are sparking really bad and pitting the contacts.
I've been told the condenser is supposed to take away some of the sparking . I have replaced both points & condenser and after running 30 minutes the contacts were pitted so I took a points file and cleaned them up .
Would 2 condenser help to prevent this ?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Ronnie

 

[mgonitzke]

Is the condenser on the points side of the coil? Are you using an OEM condenser? Is the coil of the correct type that does not require an external resistor.

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

Yes the condenser is on the negative side of the coil . The points , coil and condenser I purchase from I Save Tractors .
My question , will 2 condenser reduce some of the sparking ?

 

[mgonitzke]

I'm not sure if it would help. One condenser should be doing the job though, so something else is wrong. The new condenser may be bad. Try another one.

 

[rbedell]

The wrong Ignition Coil can cause the issue, in that it may be drawing excessive amperage. Are you using the correct Kohler Coil (KH-231281) ??

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

The wrong Ignition Coil can cause the issue, in that it may be drawing excessive amperage. Are you using the correct Kohler Coil (KH-231281) ??

Thanks for the reply
I guess, thats the one I got from I Save Tractors .
I'll try another coil, you never know what you're buying these days .
Thanks .
Ronnie

 

[Paul_CC149]

Yo may also double check if condenser clip is reliably grounded to the engine.
Ignition coil bracket is typical place for this.
Just make sure there is bare metal underneath and no corrosion or paint.

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

Yo may also double check if condenser clip is reliably grounded to the engine.
Ignition coil bracket is typical place for this.
Just make sure there is bare metal underneath and no corrosion or paint.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Paul_CC149]

Talking about non-OEM substitutes.

I just completed static timing adjustments on my newly rebuilt K321 and tested non-OEM beaker points and real Kohler part.
Static adjusted timing resulted in exact 0.020 gap on Kohler. Non-OEM gap was as measured 0.017. Same plunger.
That means if you use filler gage to adjust timing on non-OEM breaker points you will be off.
In the picture- Kohler on the right.
They do look very close, like clones though.

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

Talking about non-OEM substitutes.

I just completed static timing adjustments on my newly rebuilt K321 and tested non-OEM beaker points and real Kohler part.
Static adjusted timing resulted in exact 0.020 gap on Kohler. Non-OEM gap was as measured 0.017. Same plunger.
That means if you use filler gage to adjust timing on non-OEM breaker points you will be off.
In the picture- Kohler on the right.
They do look very close, like clones though.

That's interesting ! How is this done ?
Thanks .
Ronnie

 

[1811Cub]

Yet another example as to why the first choice should be OEM parts. Typically, the quality is there.

 

[Paul_CC149]

You can Google “ K-Series Static Ignition Timing”.

While slowly rotating crank shaft you need to catch the moment when points go open by monitoring ohm-meter resistance between them.
Correct timing will be when “SP” or “S” mark on the flywheel lines up with line-marker (next to viewing window on the bearing plate) at the moment breaker points go open.

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

You can Google “ K-Series Static Ignition Timing”.

While slowly rotating crank shaft you need to catch the moment when points go open by monitoring ohm-meter resistance between them.
Correct timing will be when “SP” or “S” mark on the flywheel lines up with line-marker (next to viewing window on the bearing plate) at the moment breaker points go open.

Thank you so much.

 

[-CӞ]

Yet another example as to why the first choice should be OEM parts. Typically, the quality is there.

NOS OEM is even better! NiB.

 

[1811Cub]

It truly is, as long as the part was stored properly. Some of the current issue OEM parts are now produced offshore. I prefer USA made parts on my machines.

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

NOS OEM is even better! NiB.

Who makes oem parts for the Cub Cadets ?

 

[-CӞ]

Who makes oem parts for the Cub Cadets ?

the mystic Wizard of NOS, i believe (?!)

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

the mystic Wizard of NOS, i believe (?!)

Always a smart ass in the crowd.

 

[1811Cub]

Who makes oem parts for the Cub Cadets ?

So, many different companies supplied parts to IH, then later to CCC, and now to MTD. Examples of this are the switches that were made by Indak, bulbs were made by GE, relays and lenses were made by Delco, seats were made by Michigan Seat, hydro pumps were made by Sunstrand, engines were made by Kohler and Briggs and Statton, and on and on.

 

[Ronnie Sellers]

So, many different companies supplied parts to IH, then later to CCC, and now to MTD. Examples of this are the switches that were made by Indak, bulbs were made by GE, relays and lenses were made by Delco, seats were made by Michigan Seat, hydro pumps were made by Sunstrand, engines were made by Kohler and Briggs and Statton, and on and on.

Yeah when MTD took over the Cub Cadet line it was down the tube from there .
The newer Cubs are not built nothing like the old International Harvester Cubs. Might as well purchase a Murry or Snapper that's the quality you're gonna get with a newer Cub .