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Archive through September 30, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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First ever one of these I have seen at an auction, and it ties for the least I've ever paid for a Cub Cadet.

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Under that hideous paint is a nice straight, complete (although non-running) tractor. I never had a desire to own an original, but this thing is kind of cool. Can't wait to start working on it but have to get the 128 ready for PD first. This little find makes up for an otherwise <u>really</u> crappy Saturday. <font size="-2">&$%# homecoming....</font>
 
It's a Cub 100. Yes, the starter is spinning. What do you think I should do
 
David K.: I was guessing that the .003 set was for a hone job type of deal, but I wasn't sure. So I asked first..LOL

I agree with you, if you have got the thing apart, and you want the cylinder to be 'true', then bore it to .010, or whatever it needs to clean up properly.
 
Matt G.: That is an interseting paint job on you 'new' Original.

Once you tear into it, you will enjoy the simple design of the tractor.
 
Robert F., the voltage for the ignition switch IS coming from the voltage regulator and as Charlie said, the voltage regulator may be fried. Try running a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the + side of the coil and see if it will start. If it does, then check to see if the regulator is charging, if you have a volt meter.
 
After a hard day of work, I finally figured it out. Through trail and error and a little bit of following the wires, I finally figured out that the wire that was fried was the wire that leads from the ignition to the voltage regulator. For some reason, thank god, it didnt fry. All I did thanks to you guys' advice is run a new wire. Thanks alot!
 
What is the proper time and temp to cook a piston for putting in the piston pin and connecting rod?

Thanks.
 
Charlie,

We haven't seen any picts of your raid to my back yard last Friday. If you had stayed over and took the long way home via Shiocton on Saturday you could have seen the Cabbage Chunkin event.

One of the compressed air guns switched to a pumpkin (cabbages shed their leaves too much) and set a new world record of 1.1 miles during the tuneups. Unfortunately I had left my camera home.
 
Jim E.
I don't even have the trailer unloaded yet.
We did see a sign for the event though.

Since we were so close, we had to stop by Horicon! NEAT PLACE! They were impressed that I even had a green T-shirt on, they dint appreciate the fact that it had a 149 over the pocket and IHCUBCADET.COM on it too!
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CHARLIE - Those people in Horicon have NO sense of humor....
STEVE T. - The wrist pin is a slip fit in the piston & rod, sometimes called a Full Floating Pin. No heat required. Make sure You have new spiroloc retainers to hold the pin.
 
DFrisk, BCorn,,,
Thanks for the words of incouragement/warning regarding my motor mounts in my 129 oil pan!

Well, I was able to remove the broken motor mount bolt in the pan and the front bolt hole threads checked out to be good. So I re-installed the engine between the frame rails and with 4 new bolts, lock washers, flat washers and blue loctite I bolted 'er down. Now just waiting for my new OE driveshaft....

Since I had drained the motor oil, this time when refilling it I added 8-oz. of MMO to it and 1-oz. in the fuel tank. I'm curious as to what, if anything, I'll notice when it's back up & running with the MMO added.

Thanks again for everyone's help & encouragement!
RW
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Charlie, is that using an electric winch? I need some high resolution detail photos of that bucket contraption for the archives. :eek:)
 
Kraig,
It's a modified Johhny Bucket.
It raises really high, I was impressed. It still has the rope trip and bucket reset ropes. I'll get ya some pics.
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Fellas, I have another 129 question:
I need to remove the fan from my damaged driveshaft so I can install it on the soon-to-arrive new driveshaft. However, I have had NO luck in removing the fan! I have removed the set screw, hosed it down with some penetrant oil, but none of it seems to want to budge/slide off/down the shaft at all!

Is there some secret to getting the fan and collar off of the driveshaft? Maybe I need to use some heat? Other ideas?

Thanks in advance! RW
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I really like that setup, but it is really OUT THERE. Mighty hard on front spindles, don't ya think.

J
 
Ryan W,

Assuming you still have an OEM fan, there should be a round split spring retainer clip on the fwd side of the plastic fan at it's base hub that needs to be spread open with the appropriate spreading tool and slid off the hub base. There's no set screw that I'm aware of. Removing the paint on the drive shaft also helps ease removal and installation. Don't pull/pry on the fan too hard cause they will crack/break. Hope this helps.
 

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