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Archive through September 29, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Here's the valve pics, HELP!!
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They are a little blurry, but the one with the red arrow is stuck down in the "Bolt" shaped housing... can I take it off and poke it up that way? That is my hand in the first pic, I was falling over as I was taking the pic... I got your suggestion Charlie, but I want everyone to get a better Idea of whats up doc.
 
Glen,
Since everything is so clean, just unscrew it and push it up from the bottom very easily with a small screw driver.
When you go to put it back in, make sure it's all clean and lubed up with some Hytran, top and bottom and you should have it.
 
<font size="+1">NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, PAINT A CHECK VALVE</font> Glen You need to take the other check valve and get the paint off of it with a wire brush or something before it gets pushed down and stuck also.
 
JCrews. Are you sure all of the linkages are functioning properly? Are the plates moving when you move the hydro handle? Was the rear end laid on its back side for alot of days causing the hytran to run out through the breather and you might be low on fluid? Also, does the trunion repair measure to these specs. and did you use new springs and end caps?

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/TrunionArmSlotDim.jpg

It might be the photo. but your trunion spring set up looks "jammed" which will give you a very jerky operation. The specs. on the trunion opening and new parts are essential to a smooth hydro.

I got some more work done on the 129 refurb.



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And of course ya' just gotta' have a love bug or two in the fresh paint.

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Glen C:

A properly functioning Manual Check Valve, will be free from paint, rust, corrosion and debris. The button stem should move freely - up & down. It is internally spring loaded, and in it's relaxed or natural state, the spring would force the button UP.

65964.jpg
 
Richard T
Thanks for the info on the trunion arm opening.I never found the size opening on it so i'll check. The hydro pump had to have fluid added when I assembled it.A little tricky when reattaching it ot the rear end. The linkages move freely back and forth.The springs & end caps are practically new and had
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little use since replacement. Hood looks good.The best way get rid of the bug hazzard is to find a friend with a paint booth.
 
I hear ya' on the paint booth James.
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. Wish I could help you more with your hydro problem but I'll bet tomorrow some real pros will help you solve the dilema. But, what do you mean by saying the hydro pump was a bit trickey to reinstall on the rear end? I assume if it's not leaking profusly it's installed properly.

Richard
 
Richard T
Ohh it ran profusely out of the pump so you had to be quick.I measured the trunion arm opening the width was fine the length was 1.12 instead of 1.20 so I'm a little off. I'll see if I can do more cutting.
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Does anyone have a picture of a carburetor for a K161 engine? I looked it up on cub parts lookup and mine doesn't look like either one shown. Thanks
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Richard T,
What kind of paint did you use on that hood?
Looks nice.

Chris C
 
I painted them because I wanted everything to look uniform and nice... I will clean them off, and fix it so I don't have that problem again...
 
Charlie
Did you see my pictures of the hydrostatic transmission? Do you have any suggestions?
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JAMES CREWS - You kidded Richard about Clear coating His Cubbie. Son & I did some painting last winter on His pickup using PPG Base coat/Clear Coat. Stuff worked great....I have to repaint the hood on both the 70 & 72 this winbter....They'll be PPG BC/CC for sure! Great stuff for a working tractor! May even do the hood & sidepanels on the 982 too.....but in red. Problem I have with the 70 & 72 is the hoods are supposed to be different colors of IHC white....so One of them is going to be wrong....not sure which at this time.
 
Dennis F.
I was only half kidding.It would be interesting to see a cub have that stainless steel look.
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