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Archive through September 29, 2007
- Thread starter jcrews
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Ongoing saga... Ok, guys, I got the motor to spin good, ran new battery wires, new throttle cables, cleaned the motor real good. Starter turns the flywheel, now I got no spark!!!! I looked at the wiring diagram in the manual, but its kind of confusing. Where does positive from the condensor go? To positive on the coil? It had spark before I tore it apart last time.
jnicklas
Well-known member
Hi there—have a question for the “82” owners. While mowing with my 782 I noticed I was leaving a trail of oil. Got it up on the ramps while running and saw oil dripping, running off the tranny filter. Though it had vibrated loose so I gave it a ¼ turn to see if this helped. Didn’t even slow down. So I figured it was the cork gasket. Pulled the tunnel cover off to take a look. Started it up and saw the oil running over the top. Pulled the gear shift cover off and one of the relief valve pin holes is just bubbling away. Now for the questions. Drop the tranny or pull the fenders . They set right under the front of the fender assy. Next can I use any relief valve, with or with out the relief pins (like a 149) or do I only use an 82 series. I did this on my 149 a couple years ago and they are right in the open, 10 minute job. This looks like it will take a little longer. Thanks in advance
Chris P: The wire from ignition switch attaches to the positive (+)post on the coil. On the negative (-) post of the coil, attach the pigtail from the condenser and the wire to the points. The condenser is, of course, grounded, through its case to the bolt of the coil bracket.
Myron B
CCSupplyroom
Myron B
CCSupplyroom
Jcrews,Usually carb cleaners will almost kill a running engine,try shooting a LITTLE ether in there and if that dont make it run for a second or three then I'd say it's some kind of intake problem like a clog, muddobber nest or maybe a stuck valve? Has it been sitting for a while? Anyone? Anyone?
rbedell
Well-known member
John N:
The Check (or relief) Valve needs to be replaced. Simply remove the Tunnel Cover, and exchange the Check Valve. The 82 Series used an Automatic Check Valve that had no manual release buttons in the top (Part # SU-9500085)
Attached is a image of the QlL Series Hydro for your reference.
The Check (or relief) Valve needs to be replaced. Simply remove the Tunnel Cover, and exchange the Check Valve. The 82 Series used an Automatic Check Valve that had no manual release buttons in the top (Part # SU-9500085)
Attached is a image of the QlL Series Hydro for your reference.
avanwettering
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2006
- Messages
- 123
- displayname
- Andy Van Wettering
John N. Should be no need to remove fenders. I just changed my 782 a coupe months ago. Gets a little tight but it can be done. blow it off good before and then again after you crack the valve loose a turn. Dont want any crud in there to add to the problem. Good luck.
Henri
I tried the ether also. Carb cleaner is safer than the ether because starting fluid can cause damage to the piston. When I use the Carburetor cleaner I have no problem getting them to run up to a minute to 90 seconds which is all I need to trouble shoot.But thanks anyway.
I tried the ether also. Carb cleaner is safer than the ether because starting fluid can cause damage to the piston. When I use the Carburetor cleaner I have no problem getting them to run up to a minute to 90 seconds which is all I need to trouble shoot.But thanks anyway.
Recently acquired a 782 and the hydro is strong but usually when I first make a forward or reverse input to the transmission it shudders just a little bit and then it's fine. Haven't changed the trans fluid/filter yet but I stuck my finger in the fill plug and the fluid seems clean and smells okay. I'm still going to change the fluid/filter and clean out the rear end while i've got the cover off. I've manually turned the driveshaft and didn't notice a sheared spirol pin. Any suggestions as to what could be causing it?
More 1250 stuff. Ok, I hooked up the condensor to the neg. side of the coil, remember I had it wrong and hooked it to pos. on the coil, still no spark. Checked the points and they looked bad. They were ok the first time I checked them so I'm thinking I fried them somehow. Question, what limits how far the points open up? What makes them open up? Even though they looked bad, I re-adjusted so they made contact but they still werent even opening when the motor was turning over. So, I'm going to get new points, should I get a new coil and condensor too? How do you gap the points?
