• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through September 28, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Amy..nice little 104. Burrrrr, looked like a cold day, your dad all bundled up...lets see a recent pic of the cubby and YOU..umm, it is in your garage, right? lol
 
An M for plowing vs. a CC? No brainier for me, give me the M all day long.
 
Jeremiah, nice write up. The only thing you might want to add is a warning not to have the key on if you're going to use the ohm meter. That's a good way to blow up your meter or, at least, blow an internal fuse. I always do the test with the key on and the meter on volts. You should get zero volts across the points with the points closed and 12 volts with the points open. And, I agree with you about using an analog meter. I like it better.
 
Paul, Jeremiah,

Going out to the garage to try and do this with the digital meter. Only cause I can not get the analog meter to work! Have changed both the 9v & AA battery in the back and NOTHING happening! So going to try it with the digital one set to 2000k on the right hand side of dial and give it a go. Wish me luck!
If you see a BLUE HAZ in the North East, you will know I am not doing too well!
 
vroom.gif


We have start up!!!

Well, a REALLY BIG
beerchug.gif
to you all who had suggestions and helped diognose my starting issues!

I used the digital meter, set to 2000k and followed Matt's step by step procedures and it worked! Also, have to tip my hat to Ron R. Schmitt who suggested a LONG time ago to confirm I had the wire from the condensor on the correct side (negative side, same as the points)
wedgie.gif
Ron, you should have said... "check the wiring again FOOL!"
bash.gif


Now, I just need to get the carb set up right so it will idle correctly when I shove the throttle all the way to the slow position. Right now it dies out in that position. It will also slowly creep back from high idle to almost slow now. I am guessing I have something tightened up too much on the throttle cable?
Can actually see the needle on the amp gauge move back and forth when its running and when I idle it up. Thats a good sign!

One of many things I learned while doing this work, I now sort of know how to use a multi meter!
 
Mike: Glad it worked out. I would check the fuse in your analog meter, all my Micronta meters from Radio Shack employed a 500 milliamp glass tube fuse of various lengths.

It doesn't seem logical that the component that is responsible for a good deal of the "fire" in the engine attaches to the negative side of the coil. But in fact, the "condenser" stores energy while the points are closed and releases it when the points open. Electrically, it is wired in parallel with the breaker points.

Paul: Thank you for the compliment on the write-up. I prefer the analog meter because it is a "current device" versus the digital mulitimeter (DMM) which is considered a "voltage device." The high impedance of the DMM isn't really a factor in most applications. Plus, I find the display can be confusing a lot of the time, it takes time to update the display, so for time-sensitive reading you can't really be sure what values you're reading when you're needing. The analog is unambiguous, to me --what you see is what you've got.

Plus, I really like the fact that you can get a lot of useful readings without have to install batteries!

As I understand it, our nation's military doesn't let their technicians employ an Ohm meter in their qualification tests (or at least they didn't used to, according to my veteran friends).

Of course the "programability" of the fancy DMM (or DVM) offer features the VOMs can only dream about.
 
OK, I tried adjusting the carb and thought I made out ok. But no such luck. I warmed up the engine the way the carb was already set when I finished cleaning/replacing parts. I got the slow idle set, but then the engine went into its coughing, spitting, backfiring and NOT wanting to idle up fiasco again. What the heck am I doing wrong, or is there actually something wrong with it once it gets really hot?

I used the method on page 39 of the Kohler Manual for K series engines to set it up. Bear in mind I have a Carter carb on this K241

bash.gif



One thing I MUST say, it certainly rolls over and fires up quickly now!
bannana_guitar.gif
 
hi, can someone please tell me if there is a way to get my snow thrower on my 1450 to throw the snow farther without the tractor moveing to fast(speed forward) i dont have lot of room to go fast just want the snow to shoot farther. thank you for the help, Chris
 
Chris two of us answered you question further down this very page, just scrool down
 

Latest posts

Back
Top