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Kendell, im not positive about the recommendation to remove the balance gears, i just remember someone posting that a while ago, whoever it was said that in a newer kohler service bulletin it recommends removal of balance gears on all NOS kohler short blocks, that's what i remember, but i could be crazy.
 
Matt:
I'm still waiting.........

Kraig:
Yeah, I wondered if there was weathering involved. In talking about this, I wonder what Kohler's original projected MTBF or actually MTTTF was on the K series design. I know that the needle bearing in the balance shafts aren't the only problem area - the aluminum rod, and dipper oiling of the big end (which leads to just about every crank needing at least .010 under grind during rebuild to get rid of the egg shape). I'm not surprised that after 30 - 40 years of use, a percentage of these engines are failing, good PM or not. I pushed an 8 horse Cushman (actually hotted up w/cam, milled head, Mikuni carb, ported and polished) a lot harder than the K301 and when the crank broke (my fault, way overrevved for long periods) the rod journal was still round, after 45 years of use. The difference? - they used a "squirter" oil pump that shoots oil into a curved slinger on the crank throw, centrifugal force pushes it into the big end..oh, and the rod is steel..

Where's the boss??
 
Ummmmm you paying attention??...As I said, an actual copy of the service bulletin.... I think I've posted this request at least four times now. The closest I've had to that is that Myron said he had something from, I believe, a factory rep - and I believe Myron, but it'd sure be nice to get the actual TSB....
 
oh ive never seen an actual page from a manual saying that, im probabily thinking of what Myron said then, i told you i could be just nuts!
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Tony, A lot of QL (1650 included) were shipped with ported hydros that didn't have the option installed. Tony look at your hydro right where kraig posted the pictures showing the lines. You may have plugs there, It just means you'd need to install a different relief spring, the lines, cylinder and valve to get hydraulics but it could be done.
 
Hi, Lots of info here. This is my first time posting.
I got a 1650 a couple years back. I didn't use it much, about a month, because it quit running. Anyway, I rebuilt the engine this spring and got it running again. At idle it runs smooth, half throttle it vibrates ,full throttle it levels out again. Is this normal for these engines?
No balancing gears in the motor.
 
I don't know anything about what kind of tire to run, or which way to turn them, I just wish I could see some snow during the winter! You guys make me jealous talking about all that snow. As for the mud, i've seen right much of it in my day. I am almost finished restoring my 128 and could not imagine letting it get even close to some mud. I suspect that mud would stain a new paint job. As for the tires, I'm running ag's on the back(turned for pulling)and three ribbed on the front. Different variations of tire usage is an interesting topic. How you turn your tires, or what kind you use is ok just as long as you get on that thing and enjoy it.
 
I finished up with the 129 lift upgrade tonight, along with some minor engine work and steering and hydro linkage repairs and upgrades.

Although it was mostly a "bolt in" swap, it didn't mean that there weren't a few modifications and tweaks to get it to work. Fabricating the left hand lift handle support was one that I knew in advance, and turned out to be no big deal. Here are a few things I did have to tweak and change to make things work well.

I had the driveshaft from the 1650, along with the rear rag joints, but not the complete front coupler, as the parts tractor was engineless. I ended up shortening the 1650 driveshaft slightly, and had to drill an additional hole in the driveshaft to make it work. I might have gotten away with changing the spider on the hydro pump to the 129's, but I like the heavier parts from the 1650. I used the front coupler setup from the 129.

I had to do some gentle bending of the hydraulic lines from the pump to the valve body, in order to clear the hydro control linkage.

I had to rework the clamp which goes around the lift lever shaft to tighten properly, It had gotten stretched and I had to widen the slot a bit.

I got the engine back in yesterday and resolved the drive line issues, today I installed the gas tank, generator, seat pan, and finished hooking up the wiring, and filled the transmission with Hy-Tran.

The engine started right up, and the lift worked well. After assuring myself that there were no leaks, I took it on a test drive. The trunion repairs seemed to work, it held speed well going up and down hills in the yard without having to fiddle with it too much, I didn't even need to adjust the Neutral position. I put the mower deck on and tested it out, it worked as I expected it would, but final adjustments will have to wait until morning.

Thanks to everyone that's provided hints along the way.
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Kendall., I wander if PM is maintenence or measures... Is there info on checking the balance gears during an overhaul? I honestly don't know. I would love to read the elusive "TSB" myself. My thinking is simple, if the engine runs(correctly) without them.... what is the use.

Keep waiting, I dont have it!
 
Kendell-

I can't wait to see this with my own two eyes as well. A fairly exhaustive google search didn't turn up anything relevant...although I did discover that some versions of the M16 single had THREE balance gears...
 
Dave, my 1650 has the ported hydro and the lines are installed. I have the hydraulic deck lift, just not the rear sleeve lift. I'm planning on installing a 3-pt lift, once I get the thing up and running.

By the way, I have attached a pic of a blade, which the owner says he has had attached to several different wide frames, including a 1650. Doesn't have the normal Cub under frame. Looks more like an MTD-type blade to me. Anybody ever used a blade like this one on their wide frame? How would it attach to the lift?<center><table border=1><tr><td>
attachment_icon.gif
Blade for wide frame Cub?
Blade (22.9 k)</td></tr></table></center>
 
Rayan D wilke..
Plate is riveted to the shroud.
Dipstick is long and on the sg side of the block
I hope this helps.....
 
Okie-dokie. Thanks for the info. Don't think I'll be buying that blade.
 
Kendall, I dropped my 149 engine off 2 weeks ago at a shop to get bored and the crank turned. I told him (with all my infinite wisdom, yeh right)that I didn't want to put the balance gears back in. He pretty much told me I was crazy. I know they will run without them, but I figure Kohler engineers are probably smarter than me. I used to rebuild big truck engines and trannys and was always under the assumption of if you take care if it and use OEM parts and do your regular maintenance, you will get your money back out of it. Either way, if ten years from now I have to put new balance gear bearings or shafts in again, then I do...I'm keeping them in there. Has anyone ever wondered what that extra vibration does to the crank or the crank bearings??? Just my 2 cents. Nick
 
Hi Cubbers,

I just wanted to introduce myself and show you all my new tractor. I am from the Washington DC area and I recently bought a 106 with a 10 HP Kohler Engine. It runs great, has been garaged pretty much its whole life, and is all original. I am basically the second owner(great grandfather died and willed it to his great grandson who sold it to me).

I put a new battery in it, new spark plug, changed the oil, replaced a headlight, moved the headlight switch onto the main control panel where the hydrollic lift switch is supposed to be(because there isn't one, i might have to undo that later), and cleaned it up a bit. it came with a 42" deck in good shape, but was missing the whole undercarage. This passed my observation when purchasing it, but I have since found one, (a couple) through this site and thank you all for having built this community to begin with. I'm sure I will be around looking for more parts, attachments and toys as time passes.

Thank you,

Andrew Spagnolo
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Tony H
I know where there is a wide frame blade here in MD. The only thing i dont know is if there is a difference between one for a hydro lift. Maybe someone here can help.
 
Ryan W,I will get you my CC 123 info as well
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Do you know why my 123 would only have the oil fill by the points cover and not behind the generator? there is not even a plugged hole or anything.}

Well, i had a VERY bad cub day yesterday. Its a very long story but I will pull out the main points(the best i can) and some questions as well. It all started when i was going to put new light bulbs in the 123, which does not nave a wiring harness, just a bunch of wires running everywhere. Somehere along the lines i lost track of which wires went where and then It turned into a major mess. <font size="+1">Matt S knows this story</font>
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But after a long struggle everything finally worked and then I took it out and drove it around and then it started cutting out and died. So i put more gas in it and then it wouldnt start because the battery has too small of CCA's so the engine does not turn over because it doesnt have ACR. Then I got the CC 147 out to jumpstart it(by this time it is dark) and I turned the lights on and a while later they shut off(on their own). So It has to be the switch but i havnt checked yet. After that I found my way back to my cub shed and jumped the 124 and got everthing thing back in ther shed. This is just the highlights of the day/night.

Now for the questions:
How can battery be dead overnight? After i got the tractor started and ran it for a while, then put it down to an idle and it died. The charge indicator showed it was charging at about half throttle, but i rememebered those generator/starters dont generate at an idle. Therefore the tractor was only running off of the the gen/starter and not the battery. Any suggestions as to how this happend?

The 123 could have some gunk in the carb, but i gotta check tomorow. Pics of the CC 123 coming soon
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