Ryan K. the #999 595 R91 tire chains are for 6-12 tires.
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Archive through September 27, 2007
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
JIM T. - If it was My K341, I'd grind the rod journal, buy the new rod, maybe even the forged ALCOA rod and have it machined for the Clevite replacable bearing insert and assemble. The forged rod & machined insert is $135 when I bought Mine a year ago, may be more $$$ now, but the insert is soft enough it wears and doesn't wear away the expensive to replace rod throw on the crankshaft. Plus it's rebuildable anytime You have the pan off the engine for any reason. Cheap insurance for an expensive to replace engine.
csanderson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2005
- Messages
- 92
- displayname
- Curtis Sanderson
Jason S- Don't know how long your driveway is, or what you consider your time to be worth, but a magnet on the end of a string, or wire, might work. If ya don't find the ball, maybe you'll come up with one of those old 1943 steel pennys, sell it on E-bay, and have enough for the new carb.
Continuing saga of the 129 rattle can refurb. I royally messed up the hood with my less than competent body work skills.
and just had to start from scratch again. Lots of scraping and an overnight visit from Mr. oven cleaner should bring me back to Ospho and bare metal and I'll give it another go. I'ts a working tractor but I just couldn't bear seeing my mess everytime I used it. LOL
Jason S,
It's a small spherical ball like those in ball bearings about the size of a BB or smaller. Try your local Case IH dealer or maybe an autoparts supplier as I remember we use to stock various bearing balls from IH. Other option would be to check with a local CC dealer or lawn mower repair shops to see if they have a junk carb laying around from a Kohler engine that you could salvage the ball out of.
When you put the screws back in for the butterfly, put a dab of Loctite on them prior to installation so they don't work out and get sucked into your engine.
It's a small spherical ball like those in ball bearings about the size of a BB or smaller. Try your local Case IH dealer or maybe an autoparts supplier as I remember we use to stock various bearing balls from IH. Other option would be to check with a local CC dealer or lawn mower repair shops to see if they have a junk carb laying around from a Kohler engine that you could salvage the ball out of.
When you put the screws back in for the butterfly, put a dab of Loctite on them prior to installation so they don't work out and get sucked into your engine.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Richard, you're supposed to break out the 'cold ones' after you paint! If/when you reach bottom layer maybe spray a light colored primer first, its probabily a little thicker than the Cub White, and will accept paint better. JMHO
So I dismantled my 42" mower deck on my 109 to clean up the surface rust and sharpen the blades.
Figured I'd OSPHO the thing while I had it apart, then figured I'd repaint it too, since it was apart.
So I went to my local NAPA to get the spray paint; numbers 99L-11934 white and 99L-3857 yellow. How about $11.60 per can??? Minimum order of six cans??? Is that radical or what?
Then I drove down 7 miles to our local International Case dealer. My cousin's a farmer and does a lot of business there.
They had 991098N yellow (I/Case replacement for 483) and 991115N white (I/Case replacement for 935) and it was $6.30 per can.
They're also a Cub dealer and can get any Cub parts still available.
I thought NAPA would be a bit more competitive than that!
The I/Case 935 spray white looks like it's a different white than is on my 109. The 109 is a much lighter white. Maybe sun fade? Is the I/Case # 991115N spray white paint number listed here the correct color? It looks more like a cream color white than is on my 109 and 149s.
I'll post some pics of the finished project.
Figured I'd OSPHO the thing while I had it apart, then figured I'd repaint it too, since it was apart.
So I went to my local NAPA to get the spray paint; numbers 99L-11934 white and 99L-3857 yellow. How about $11.60 per can??? Minimum order of six cans??? Is that radical or what?
Then I drove down 7 miles to our local International Case dealer. My cousin's a farmer and does a lot of business there.
They had 991098N yellow (I/Case replacement for 483) and 991115N white (I/Case replacement for 935) and it was $6.30 per can.
They're also a Cub dealer and can get any Cub parts still available.
I thought NAPA would be a bit more competitive than that!
The I/Case 935 spray white looks like it's a different white than is on my 109. The 109 is a much lighter white. Maybe sun fade? Is the I/Case # 991115N spray white paint number listed here the correct color? It looks more like a cream color white than is on my 109 and 149s.
I'll post some pics of the finished project.
Dudes one and all. I've posted before but here goes again. I pulled my 12hp Kohler out of my 1250. The motor seemed a bit tight for starting while in the mower. The starter struggled. I did jump it with my truck and wanted to go but I fried the throttle cable? Shorted out there somehow? Anyhow, I stopped that and pulled the motor. Took the head off and turned the flywheel. It turns easy and nothing seems wrong. No grinding or anything close to it. Everything appears to be normal. The hydro is also free and easy spinning as well. So, I cleaned everything thoroughly. What do you think the problem is? I know with the head on and the plug in, it's suppose to be a little stiffer, but it seems a bit too stiff to me. Is there a compression release somewhere that I could look and see if it isnt functioning properly? I'm stumped. Thanks in advance guys.
elamott
Well-known member
Thanks Ken for the picture of the cam cover. I thought that had to be it but I wasn't sure. It was not as bad to take off as I thought it would be. I adjusted to ACR tab and what a difference. The starter actually turns it over now. It never did before.
I have one more question. Now that the ACR is working the motor viberates more at a low rpm. I am assuming that it is from the tab lifting up the valve. Am I assuming correct??? I also had to readjust the points. I don't know why but it did not like the old setting. Now it starts and runs great (at least in the shed).
Thanks again for the help
Earl LaMott
I have one more question. Now that the ACR is working the motor viberates more at a low rpm. I am assuming that it is from the tab lifting up the valve. Am I assuming correct??? I also had to readjust the points. I don't know why but it did not like the old setting. Now it starts and runs great (at least in the shed).
Thanks again for the help
Earl LaMott
Chris,
Try jumping starting the motor again but this time hook the negative side jumper to a bolt on the motor body someplace. Maybe the muffler fitting close to the block. Does it spin over stronger or faster? If so you need a ground between the motor and chassis. Someone else will need to chime in here. I only know NF's.
Try jumping starting the motor again but this time hook the negative side jumper to a bolt on the motor body someplace. Maybe the muffler fitting close to the block. Does it spin over stronger or faster? If so you need a ground between the motor and chassis. Someone else will need to chime in here. I only know NF's.
Chris,
I would go with Terry's suggestion first, eliminate ground problems. Also bad positive connection to the starter, use your jumper cable directly to the starter. The starter should turn over fairly quickly with a good battery or supply of current.
If you still have problems, it could be the starter (brushes, windings, bushings, etc.)
It is possible the compression release weights have not returned to start position (spring broke or came off, weights jammed). You should see at the start of the compression stroke that the exhaust valve is slightly up off the seat. Since you have the head of this will be easy to see. If the valve does not lift slightly it may need lift adjustment or the compression release (CR) is not working. You have to remove the oil pan to work on the CR.
Jim
I would go with Terry's suggestion first, eliminate ground problems. Also bad positive connection to the starter, use your jumper cable directly to the starter. The starter should turn over fairly quickly with a good battery or supply of current.
If you still have problems, it could be the starter (brushes, windings, bushings, etc.)
It is possible the compression release weights have not returned to start position (spring broke or came off, weights jammed). You should see at the start of the compression stroke that the exhaust valve is slightly up off the seat. Since you have the head of this will be easy to see. If the valve does not lift slightly it may need lift adjustment or the compression release (CR) is not working. You have to remove the oil pan to work on the CR.
Jim
Richard: Good start! Couple of suggestions. Wet sand now with 300 or 400 wet sand paper then use prime filler rattle can is ok then wet sand with 800 grit. Make sure you wipe every thing clean make sure everything is perfectly dry then 3 "light" finish coats. Remember spraying top coats lights are always better with being "tacky" between coats.
Pops
Pops
Jim, I think the compression release is working ok. You can see the smaller valve(exhaust?) lift a bit as the piston starts to rise. I sprayed engine cleaner on everything and cleaned it up real good. When I put stuff back together, I will go for the ground problem. Thanks a ton for your help guys!!!!!!!!!!!
Working on my snow thrower a bit today, getting ready for winter, and I got to thinking . . .
Has anybody fabricated a way of putting a snow blade on the front of their snow thrower?
Here's my thinking:
It's a significant pain in the keester to take the blade off & put the thrower on each time I wish to change implements. I know it's *supposed* to be easy, but it's certainly not insignificant.
Since the thrower already has the lift and spring-trip mechanisms, it shouldn't be too hard to affix a blade to the front for light-duty snow scraping.
I realize I'll be giving up the ability to angle the blade if I go this route. If I *need* that feature, I can certainly switch.
Am I crazy, or does this idea have merit? Has anyone else been down this road?
Has anybody fabricated a way of putting a snow blade on the front of their snow thrower?
Here's my thinking:
It's a significant pain in the keester to take the blade off & put the thrower on each time I wish to change implements. I know it's *supposed* to be easy, but it's certainly not insignificant.
Since the thrower already has the lift and spring-trip mechanisms, it shouldn't be too hard to affix a blade to the front for light-duty snow scraping.
I realize I'll be giving up the ability to angle the blade if I go this route. If I *need* that feature, I can certainly switch.
Am I crazy, or does this idea have merit? Has anyone else been down this road?
