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Archive through September 20, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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How about this for a hood support? Richard C. posted this many years ago...

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The smoke (147) at start up was a bit of a concern when I bought it in April, but it doesn't smoke under load, and I never smell burning oil. I'm wondering if the rings are going bad (or are bad.) because it can't keep the oil separate from the firing chamber on top of the piston when I shut it off.

Open toes and running mower deck? yeah I know it's not a good idea, BUT I've been doing it for years and am always mindful of it when doing it.
 
Dennis – Mowing is the primary task mine will face. Really looking forward to using the Haban 60”, should be a real time saver over the 42” off topic machine I have. Not just seat time, I waste a lot of time fixing or replacing broken items.

I am curious about this dump cart you have. Did you build it or buy it? Pulling 3000# of dirt / rocks or whatever around and being able to dump it from the seat… Soooo cool!!

I hear you with the Onan, I was aware that the CC dealer would have limited parts, but when they told me they could not get points, condenser, or plugs for me I about screamed in the show room. I didn’t think about going to the JD dealer for parts, that’s a good idea. At least there is one local if I get in a jam, rather than ordering and waiting a week for them to show up.

I would really like to have a diesel, mostly because it sounds neat. Lots of torque and sips fuel. It would help me justify a fuel tank for my place too. They are very pricy though. I have been wondering why IH built the 782D then jumped up the “Super” GT but didn’t offer or just make a diesel powered version.
 
Ok, For all those wanting instant gratification for a hood prop...
Hood in the open position:
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Hood in the Oh Sh*t, watch your head! position:
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And my 1yr old girl displaying where it stops instead of hitting your head:
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Btw, I walked out and took these about 10 minutes ago... yes that in the brand new Cub shed, still finishing it out. I took pictures of the 2072 and 128 but didn't upload them. I still have to find room for the "new" 70 and parts 782 and 1050 puller.
 
Nick – Thanks for posting those pics! Not at all what I had in mind. Is it attached / retained under the hood some how, or do you just have to remember what ya did with it?
 
It's bolted to the grill surround with the shoulder bolt to the bottom left of the headlight in the first pic. The rusty little spring from the headlight bracket to the prop pulls it into the "catch" position. Hinge arm slides up the prop, over the angle part, and into the notch every time you open it. You have to actually pull the prop outward while closing the hood to put it down all the way. Most guys remove them because they forget to pull it and bend the hood up a lot. Or if your friends try to help out and do the same thing. A real good wind will so do a bit of damage.

But I don't let anyone else maintain my cubs and I know it's there. So no worries about damage. I keep my eye out alot for 2 more, 1 for the 2072 and 1050. Otherwise the hood arms just rest against the grill surround.
 
KIRK - This is my dump trailer, http://mail.solexcorp.com/productfiles/pronovost/503.html

Prior owner added 5/4"X6" gray composite deck boards for side boards on frt & sides. Tailgate drops down like a pickup or pivots open from the top, just like a full size dump box on a dump truck. Has a 3" x 12" 2-way cylinder, and there's only been two HEAPING loads of dirt I couldn't raise at idle w/982. I couldn't have hauled one small shovel full more dirt! Had to hold the hyd lever and back up and stop quickly to get the box started raising. The walking tandems really smooth out the ride when I pile brush 4 ft above the sides and drive across the yard. I seldom loose anything unless a branch on a tree catches the top of the load.

I bought it used and had been used very very little, probably only hauled a few bales of hay or??? Guy traded a Honda garden tractor and ALL his toys for a new kubota 4WD w/heated cab the winter we had over 100 inches of snow. I bought it about May that spring and put it right to work hauling brush. I have a Cat O to sleeve hitch adapter on my 3-pt and made a small drawbar to pull the cart from so I can tip the trailer more with the 3-pt so it dumps everything better. The normal drawbar on a CC is a few inches too low. I bought it for about what the steel, wheels/tires, & hyd cylinder would have cost from Northern Hyd. It weighs about 500 pounds empty, maybe a bit more. Wish I had a much bigger one to pull with my big Farmalls. Pronovost makes them up to 24,000# cap, but a 10,000# would be nice, like this,http://mail.solexcorp.com/productfiles/pronovost/511.html

My Buddy mows about five acres with a 5020 Allis CUT, 2-cyl 19 HP diesel & 60" deck. He says he gets three mowings per 5 gal of fuel. I burn about 4 gal of gas on a bit over 2 acres w/982.

NIC - So THATS how that thing attaches & works!?!? Like I said, I have the one for the 982, but it wasn't on the tractor when I got it and I never messed with it.
 
Wayne all my 1x8,9 have a ground from the s/g to the front nose frame bolt and I believe they have to have them.
 
Nick – Thanks for the info, mine must have been remove, as I know I didn’t have to do anything special to close the hood. Kind of a neat idea, I’ll have to think about making one when things calm down in my “repair department” and I get some seat time in.

Dennis – That trailer is really nice! Sounds like you got a heck of a deal on it. I like the “mini-dump truck” tail gait on it. That would be really nice for spreading some dirt in my rutted back yard or rock on the driveway. Good idea to add the draw bar to the 3-pt for the extra lift. You would probably have had trouble dragging the jack with the 982’s rear “hitch” unless it folds.

I can get several mowings out of a tank of fuel with my JD 750 tractor and the 60” finish mower. I wouldn’t even have been in the market for the 982 if it had a belly mower. The problem I have with it is the maneuverability. I have a bunch of trees and such to mow around. The 3-pt finish mower behind and the loader sticking out front forces me to waist a lot of time covering ground multiple times to get it all cut and I still have to get the line trimmer out and burn a couple tanks of gas to get it all cleaned up. It doesn’t have power steering and with the loader hanging out there, it’s a work out to steer.
 
Wayne - yup, I think Jeff said it about the best. The ground wire goes from a bolt on the S/G mount to the engine, to the bolt on the lower grill casting to the frame. That latter bolt uses a nice big round flat washer that goes concave when bolted down nice and tight.

Matt G - I wonder if Tom is keeping up. I like that stop apparently by Richard C. It would work on the 1x8/1x9 as well as the QL line. One thing I'd be concerned with tho, is the upper grill housing is diecast and the threads for those bolts strip out quite easily. The extra thickness of the stop bracket would require at least a longer bolt to hold it, and the pressure may result in overload of the diecast threads. Now where are the engineers when we need them to calculate whether it would hold up.
 
Many thanks to all that replied about the ground wire.

And this 169 has run so well without the engine ground. It must have been grounded somehow. Howard worked on the carb side today when we decided to go ahead and pull the engine.

This tractor would not turn well at all but after we got the front end jacked up it turned like a champ. We found the axle pivot pin was only in the front collar all of the time and would go in and out of the rear. The retaining roll pin was in the collar but not in the pivot pin. Once I got under there I was able to push the pivot pin out with my finger. The axle would bind in the channel preventing full function/travel of the connecting rod and spindles. That's where we left off today so I really don't know yet what it will take to get the whole system tight again. The 3/4" squeezer bolt awaits me first thing tomorrow.
 
I have seen alot of posts regarding mowing decks, deck speed up pulleys, the quality of cut, and the use of gator blades. Recently when my son was mowing a local farmers grass under contract with my 1650, I asked the farmer if I could borrow his Deere 325 (dirty word moderatores can delete that if necessary). He equipped the mowing deck with a blade set called Meg-Mo. I was really impressed with the cut of the blades and how fast the clippings exited out of the deck. (Yes I know his tractor is only 5 years old and the spindles turn much faster than our 60-70-early 80 vintage IH decks) However they make blades that fit our deck and was wondering if anyone else has tried them? They are like bush-hog type of blades and swing on a shaft except they have 4 blades per spindle instead of 2.
 
Good Cub day today. Picked up the tires from being loaded today. Wow, what a difference! Stopped by the local Interstate battery outlet and picked up a new battery for the 122 and got that fired up today for the first time in a year. Still runs like a champ! Even managed to get the yard mowed before the rain moved in. With this weekend off of work I think I'll get the new tires put on the 782, some new lights put on the 122 and maybe even a work light for the back of the 782. It would be great to get the plows put on and do some testing if the weather cooperates.

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Art, Harry,

"I don't know if Paul Bell might have any super secret archive details either"

I don't have any secret archives.......but I know what Harry's front wheels are, and since he doesn't have a gun he can't shoot me either. Think Kraig and his "Zig-Zag's"....
 
ROB N. - Those Meg-Mow blades are expensive. But a couple guys on another forum tried them and they said the worked O-K. I think the four blades actually attach to a large disk attached to the spindle and are able to swing back if they hit something solid. It takes more power to get the heavier blade up to speed but once it's turning they shouldn't pull any harder. Twice as many cutting edges should make for a better cut.

Nobody here that I know of has used them, but maybe they were trying to keep them a secret!
 
Matt,
Thanks for the pix from R.C., that looks like a nice setup. The one I've seen is a cable from the top hole of the grill casting to the "L" (lifting bracket) on the head. I would think a plastic coated cable would be the way to go.
 
Dennis F,

Yes the Meg-Mo's are expensive, something like 330 dollars delivered to your door. Yikes, thinking about it that is likely more than most of us paid for our first cub!!!!
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I'm only saying that with a 30 year newer tractor, turning the spindles faster, and with 4 cutting blades per spindle that off topic green machine really put my 1650 to shame.
 
Tom - what's up? Not responding to my posts???
Hey I tried a chain connected the same way you're describing and it rattled around and kept getting caught up in itself so the hood would never sit at the same position. And when the hood is held up if it happens to be at the near balance point it tends to flop towards the close direction really easy (like from a breeze). I suppose a cable may work better but attaching to the L lift on the engine does look a little funky. I do like R.C.'s but I don't think that is something I could fabricate. Looks like it has to be pretty exact to work correct, and then there is the issue with the threads in the diecast - but who knows, could work real slick and be a big seller if someone made it available for sale. I'd buy at least one, maybe half a dozen so my son had some for his units.
 
Harry,
I've been in the bean fields chasing the combine around. Cathing up now.
Yup, I'd buy one or two it someone wants to fabricate 'em. **Hint to Arron**
 

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