Kentuck,
It works pretty well at 35 below and the snow gets a little deep.
It works pretty well at 35 below and the snow gets a little deep.
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Archive through September 20, 2011
- Thread starter mgwin
- Start date
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The ole 1450 was all I had to move snow when we first got up north, so I had to poke a hole in the drift to help the ole girl get started.
jbrewer
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2011
- Messages
- 29
- displayname
- john brewer
OK, here's the rest of the photos of the 123 I'm thinking about. Your comments (and any particular things to look at when I get to see it in person) are greatly appreciated.
I think this is going to be fun!
Thanks guys
John
I think this is going to be fun!
Thanks guys
John
mpatterson
Well-known member
I agree Lucas, that is the LAST thing I want to do is have to re-do something! When I am done with my 782, I want to be able to walk out to the garage and fire it up and put it to work. I don't want to have to fix anything on it. The most I want to have to do is wash & wax it! It will be gone over completely and repainted but it will be a worker. Nothing wrong with having a New Looking worker is there?
Its all the little things that I do not want to miss, like simple gaskets or o-rings or something small that are a PIA to replace after it is all reassembled!
Its all the little things that I do not want to miss, like simple gaskets or o-rings or something small that are a PIA to replace after it is all reassembled!
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
John: Looks like a great place to start. That may be a replacement engine. Lights are a nice option. Hood is in really nice shape. Sleeve hitches and hydraulics are available if you decide to go that route in the future. Check my profile for a pic of the 123.
KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver)
You had better reread my post ! Nose up will allow the front weight of the tractor to lift much easier and lose traction. low weight below the rear end or just above it will give more traction to the rear end when the tractor is pulling a load.so weight low and forward will gain traction. You can have to much power to weight and must have a balance to have a good pulling tractor. Nose up I think would be just for looks and not very good for working.
You had better reread my post ! Nose up will allow the front weight of the tractor to lift much easier and lose traction. low weight below the rear end or just above it will give more traction to the rear end when the tractor is pulling a load.so weight low and forward will gain traction. You can have to much power to weight and must have a balance to have a good pulling tractor. Nose up I think would be just for looks and not very good for working.
John - You'll like a hydro but you may not like the dash handle. That 42" CI (cast iron end) deck is a stout son of a gun and it'll take a beatin' BUT you'll hate the blades ! Don't throw them away when you see them , they may be new !!
The frame most likely will have a crack on the bottom of the "L" of the frame above the front axle pivot saddle. Only way to get to it is to remove the engine.
Mike - I'd pull the drive shaft and put new pins in the ends and check the shaft for bad wear in the pin holes. Someday it'll fail when you don't want it to.
DonT - You better re-read your statement ... you said "POWER" not traction. I was right with what I said given what you said.
Charlie - I didn't know your blood flowed @ -35°.
The frame most likely will have a crack on the bottom of the "L" of the frame above the front axle pivot saddle. Only way to get to it is to remove the engine.
Mike - I'd pull the drive shaft and put new pins in the ends and check the shaft for bad wear in the pin holes. Someday it'll fail when you don't want it to.
DonT - You better re-read your statement ... you said "POWER" not traction. I was right with what I said given what you said.
Charlie - I didn't know your blood flowed @ -35°.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Ken,
Your talking about the drive shaft roll pins where they go through the two bolt couplers at the rag joints?
M.
Your talking about the drive shaft roll pins where they go through the two bolt couplers at the rag joints?
M.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Is there any better spot on engine than another? Or is it best just to sandwich it between the engine and the frame when re-installing the engine? Is there any specific gauge wire to use? 8 or 10 or what??
Mike - I've got mine on one of the starter bolts. Anywhere it's on the block or cylinder head is best , not just the sheet metal.
Under the oil pan would cause a problem if you didn't put 3 more washers the same thickness as the cable lug under the other 3 bolts.
The heavier the wire the better the current flow.
Under the oil pan would cause a problem if you didn't put 3 more washers the same thickness as the cable lug under the other 3 bolts.
The heavier the wire the better the current flow.
Chris R., no and no. However on the Original steering box, when I refurbished my Original I came up with a workable version. Here's a LINK TO MY POST scroll way down to the bottom of the page. Oh, one thing I should update from that post, the Original refurb is complete and the steering works great.
