Archive through September 17, 2004

[dvogt]

David your carb settings are awful lean. Kohler gives a spec to pre set them. only real way to get them perfect is to set them while running. my guess is you were reducing the tiing and it would get better but still a dog

 

[dvogt]

David, you mentioned overhaul. Different people have different ideas of what a overhaul is. did you do a rering? or bore it oversize? also how did the rod journal mic up? what is your cam & crankl endplay set at?

 

[dmcnair]

Don V.
My overhaul was what I considered complete. .010 oversize bore on the cylinder. Had too much taper near the bottom of the stroke to go std. New .010 piston and rings. Already had a .010 crank and rod. everything measured in spec. Lapped valves in block and set end clearances per Kohler spec. Of course new gaskets and seals throughout engine. All bearings seemed free running without any loose play. Everything lined up when crank was installed. Primary and secondary timing marks lined up on cam and counter balance gears as indicated in Kohler manual. I did not check end play on the crank or the cam. How do you perform this operation. I really would hate to pull the engine out again if I can avoid it. New float, needle and seat and gaskets in the carburetor. Took everything apart cleaned and reassembled. Is it possible that the governer system could be causing me problems? I don't exactly understand how it works to control the throttle position.

 

[pdorow]

Rebuilt my hydro (new gaskets and seals) on my 1250 this morning, everything went great except for that blasted brake return spring %^^$%&%$@%. what a pain. Ended up using a piece of wire to strech it back to rehook.

Just came in from mowing, no leaks!!

 

[jbliler]

Got the engine hub ground to fit for the 149. Slot was a bit offside. Was still glad to get a new one. Primer is drying if that is possable with it damp outside.Driveshaft seems to be just right.
Thanks Ted, wish turning it around some more would have worked. Kind of hate to rework new parts.

 

[jchabot]

Dave M:

Start out by adjusting the governor according to the procedure in the manual, next set the timing with a timing light also according to the manual. After making sure these settings are right adjust the low and high speed mixture screws for proper mixture.

You mentioned that you had a .010 under crank and rod and that they had measured up. Did you measure the bore on the crank end of the rod. I have seen standard rods in .010 under boxes before, so I would want to be sure that your knock isn't actually a rod knock. If you remove the camshaft gear cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand you should be able to see the rod and hook a long 7/16" box wrench over the dipper. With the wrench hooked over the dipper you should be able to gently rock the rod back and forth and feel if there is excessive play.

 

[mschwartz]

Ok. Got bored last night and took my tools to the 122. Shes in pieces all the way down to the frame, so what looked like was going to be a beefed up clutch and some clean up is now a rattle can repaint for the whole tractor. this dang thing cost more to maintain than my girlfriend.
Mjs

 

[dvogt]

David. if you have the pan off you can do it with feeler gauges. with it in the tractor you'll need a dial indicator. cam can be checked off the gear with the cam cover off. a loose cam or crank end play can cause knocks due to the helical cut gears on them. if its real loose it could also change timing enough to cause problems

 

[dmcnair]

Jim C. and Don V.
I will perform the mentioned procedures in the next day or two and let you know my results. Don, I did mic the crank throw diam and the rod bore. It was a .010 rod and crank. Rod also has the hole drilled on the I-beam section to indicate it is an undersize replacement. I truly appreciate the time, effort, and the advice you are providing.
Thanks,
David

 

[hsell]

Hello,

Got a question for the experts, I just bought an original cub cadet and it is my 6th one. It is the first one with a pull out dipstick.. All my other ones have the plug kind you wrench out. It has not been tampered with either.. Did they start to change to this after a certain serial number??
Thanks..........

 

[rchristensen]

Well my old girl let me down.

I use the old girl almost every day and she hasn't leaked a drop of Hydro fluid until last week and then she just let go. So young too, only 29, thought she would make 30. Guess I will need to get some Depends, or else replace that cork gasket with a Neopreme one. Maybe she got jealous when I had my heart problems.

 

[rpatton]

Howard Sell ,its probably had a short block. Rich

 

[wcupp]

Hello all. I am new to this board, hope I am in the right place to get some help from some of you folks. I have a model 1250, S/N 617788, hydrostatic trans with self-unloading check valves, NOT equipped with hydraulic lift. For the past year or so the trans speed control has been very "jerkey". Well, not the speed control itself (lever,pivot,control cam, spring, control drive plate ect. ect.) but the resulting foward (or reverse) motion of the tractor. My service manual says "inspect and clean" and replace o-rings on check valves....this I did. So it's off to mow I go....shifts "fairly" smooth, much better than it did. Mowed the front lawn and drove down the driveway to cut along the road, when I came back down the driveway I saw that someone had left a small trail of oil.....yes, that would be me. Oil now streaming out of top vents of check valves. Valves were cleaned with with spray brake cleaner, no poking or proding. What did I do and how do I fix it. Charge pump relief valve has now been cleaned, it looked ok.
If you know the problem...and the answer could you help me out.

 

[ecanady]

Hi Guys!
New here... short intro-
My name is Eric Canady and I live in Columbus, Indiana. I recently aquired a Cub Cadet 782 (red) hydro with dual hydraulics on it in good original running shape. It has a 50" mower deck (which i will never use i really doubt- i do commercial mowing and garden tractors are a joke for mowing to me). Has 17hp Kohler twin with a new carburetor, and the original chrome hub caps (although rusty). The paint is faded and scratched. I hopefully can redo the tractor this winter. It is a nice tractor. I got the tractor a week and a half ago and last week i put on Duro 26x12x12 lug tires on back and Titan 16x6.5x8 lug tires on front (wish they matched, but $152 total for all brand new i am not going to complain). It looks really mean... I replaced the fuel cap/gauge, replaced the seat (which was way shot) and added a steering knob and made a screen grill for the front since it was missing. can't wait to get started on the project but for now it is an excellent running work tractor (even the headlights worked- surprise).
I will post pics later, after i have time to look how to post them.


Oh I also have a 1964 Bush Hog garden tractor and a Massey Ferguson model 12 if that matters to anyone since they are non- Cub items.


Look forward to good conversation here and learning a lot.
Thanks!
Eric

 

[kdunham]

Do I smell somethin' burning?

 

[jlang]

Eric, Welcome to the cub caet forum. Sounds like your have a nice tractor there1 wHY DON'T YOU COME TO pd8, yOU WON'T BEIVED HOW MUCH FUN WE HAVE THERE!

 

[bnecker]

The local green lawn and garden store sold out a while back and today there was an auction of all the the odd ball parts and miscellaneous cluttering up the place. The crowd was sparce and rain was pouring down. I had to buy the whole rack of parts and bolts for $25 but lookee what I found wrapped in the paper from the factory.

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[rchristensen]

William Cupp
If the check valves were not leaking before you took them apart and afterwards both were leaking it almost must be something you did. You could have broken some junk loose and it is keeping one from closing but since it is both that seems kind of strange.

Did you get the rubber O ring and the plastic ring in the right order? Here are a couple of the old style check valves but the O ring order is the same.

I would take them apart and clean them again and check the new O rings against the old ones to see it they gave you the correct size.

Whenever I use a cleaning agent on the check valves I soak them in hydro fluid before I put the rubber O rings on to prevent damaging them.

 

[jlang]

Bob, Way to go!

(Message edited by jlang on September 19, 2004)

 

[jlang]

Bob, Way to go!

I'll give you a 10% profit on those hubcaps! Would you sell them for $27.50? You can keep the other stuff!

& would you deliver to plowday8?

(Message edited by jlang on September 19, 2004)