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Archive through September 17, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bmcmeen

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
2,106
displayname
Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Kraig -

Just you and Charlie - birds of a feather, as they say
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Anyway, tire bong - Matt said "tube", that negates just breaking the bead, although we might as well show him the choices. As long as Matt knows that he needs GOOD tires, rims and valve stem (read - they don't leak air!) to use Travis' method.
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Kraig here's the BOFH reply I got!

"Of course you are, but your average wrist strap has a 1 meg resistor in series with it, a *really* poor earth. What you need is a direct earth connection. Hang onto the frame of something that's earthed properly."

"What, you mean like our stainless steel work bench?"

"Excellent. Now, have you got a paper clip to discharge the static with?"

"Hang on. Yeah"

"Ok, with your other hand, poke the clip thru the ventilation holes at the back of the unit, and just touch the contact at the end of the thick red wire."

"The one going to the power supply?"

"Yep, that's it"

"....Hey, isn't that the li... >kzzzzt!< >clunk<"

Another satisfied happy customer taken care of, Thanks Bryan!
 
Matt-
Part of me is wondering how much front weight you're running here.
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Don't quote me on this, and some may disagree with me, but my "seat of the pants" experience is that too much front weight tends to "take away" from the effects of rear weight.
Kinda like putting Chris Farley in the front of the canoe....

I've noticed that in sandy soil I can run the Plow Special with no front weight and do just fine, but running in Blunier's "cured concrete soil" I need all 50lbs of it up front and even then have to "think harder" to steer at some places in the field. Since you're smaller than me <font size="-2">(or Bryan)</font>
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50lbs may be too much weight up front. (Again, think "canoe"...)

That said, are you running more weight on the "land" side rear wheel than you are on the furrow side rear wheel? That would help too.

And since I'm a <font color="119911">greenhorn-boy-from-the-burbs</font> to all of this, I'll end with:
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

(Message edited by aaytay on September 17, 2004)
 
Matt,

3 weights on the high side, 2 in the furrow (3 will drag on the previously turned furrow..not good).

Windshield washer fluid in both tires filled to just below the valve stem.

AND......like I told you in IN when you plowed with your 70......get your (skinny little) rear out there on the fender to keep the high side biting....and don't let it spin out to the point of high centering it. (BTW, M&M's...especially peanut...are the preferred way to add "personal" weight
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Matt, Steve is right. You need the weight on the high side. You may even want to put just one weight on the right side to keep the traction a little more balanced. That's what I run, and I've eaten a few more ho-ho's than you
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Matt-

Put 50lbs on the furrow & 100lbs on the land wheel of the 122. And if you want, you could still put fluid in your tires.

On the 1408 Plow Special, I have 10.50 Titans with 140lb of weight on each rear wheel, and run 4 42lb weights up front pulling a 10" plow 8-10" deep depending on conditions. I sit in the middle of the seat, not out on the fender.

Now, I have a $250 clutch, and I don't care if anything breaks either. So don't anybody use this as a guide to plow with a restored tractor, the 1408 was built to be beaten. Seriously, who else plows in 3rd gear @ 4000RPM?
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My 1872 has 70lb rear weights & the fluid filled 26x12-12 tires weight 140lb each. Again, I run 4 42lb weights up front. But I pull the loaded 16ft trailer around and do other abusive things to it.
 
Art,
After several trys I finally got the 1450 set perfect for me. 162 lbs. landside, 84 landside and 80 on the front. No side settin for me!
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Ok so heres my plan. 4 ih weights on the land side and my other 2 on the furrow side to keep my "skinny rear" moving in the field. sound good with no fluid or considering i weigh 160 lbs do i need to fill the tires
 
And real quick is it ok to put 3 ih weights on the outside of a rim using 2 carriage bolts, mainly so i can use the other 2 holes to bolt one to the inside of the rim.?
 
Kraig and others-You bring up good points on the dual tire situation. Sure does look cool!! I was wondering about having a lower tire pressure in the inner wheel to give it more squat and more contact for the outer wheel when plowing.

J
 
Need some quick help here guys...
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Brinly lists the pins that hold the sleeve hitch adaptor to the lower bracket as being 1/2"X1.5".

Does anybody know if that takes into account the use of the double-lower-bracket, or will I need longer ones?

I'm at work right now and wanted to grab some pins on my way home. Could somebody near a tractor right now get me a measurement of what would work?

TIA
 
Jonathan, duals are more for looks that anything. IMHO, they're absolutely worthless for plowing.

Charlie, bought a new 4-wheeler so I can really get you rolling when you need a tug!!
 
ART - I weight My 72 just about identicle to what Charlie said....;-) So It must be because We're "Different" JONATHAN - Lower psi in the inner tire would help but then Your outer tire is carrying more weight. Probably not a bad thing running across a headland but I sure wouldn't try plowing a dead furrow with that setup.
 
Anyone have any answers for Tim G., he was asking about the start button wiring on his Original on the last page? I didn't see any answers and didn't want his query to go unnoticed......

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Have a question I have an Original that had a bad start push button which I replaced.

Now the wires are getting red hot inbetween the key and that push button.

Anybody know what I can check to correct this.

Thanks
Tim<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
This might help.
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Art's entry for the quote of the day.....
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

The longer I'm a member of this forum, the more I realize that maybe I'm the one who's different...<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 17, 2004)
 
Denny-
The longer I'm a member of this forum, the more I realize that maybe I'm the one who's different...
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Kraig/Tim-
Could a bad ign. switch have fried the old push button and now it's going for the wires?
 
Art -

I dunno, I stop by Dan's house and just pick the proper sized pins out of his parts drawer...
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The wide bracket was never meant for plowing, it's just another use for the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> rear blade/rake bracket.
 
Kraig-
Had to sneak that one there huh?....
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Bryan-
Yea, if you look close at the picture I posted with my question, you'll see the little tab-bracket for the down-pressure springs on a rear blade/rake implement.

That said, I really like that double bracket set up for plowing. Just seems like "the way it should have been done".

Now, isn't it time for you to hop on a train and get me some measurements???
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Any of you guys have a picture of a light switch knob for a 104?

Dean
 
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