Archive through September 15, 2012
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jstertz
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- joshua donald stertz
Holy Cow Harry and Kraig!!!
This has been fun watching just your posts! I wish I was having this much fun with my PTO
I got it back together as per the manual instructions but it wasn't fully disengaging!!! Sound familiar Kraig? I was beginning to wonder myself if something was bottoming out somewhere. However, since I'm a first timer at this, I bow to your expertise
. I'm assuming that if I "disengage" the clutch by reliving the pressure on the friction disk, aka pulling the lever back, I'm assuming I should be able to roll the motor by hand and the PTO shouldn't move with the basket pulley and friction disk, correct? Right now, with the control lever in the engage position (handle forward) if I adjust the turnbuckle to the point at which the wear button is touching the thrust button (which I understand there should be a minimum of 1/64" clearance) and then I engage the thrust button (handle back) I can turn the PTO by hand without it turning the motor but it still is dragging somewhere. When I start the tractor the clutch wont stop spinning with the handle in the full aft disengage position. This will be a problem and burn everything up quickly in my estimation. This is my first mechanical PTO tractor and I haven't another currently working to compare it to.
In light of this, I'm going to take everything apart and install that snap ring back in and gap that out that small distance to see if that is enough to make a difference in my operation. Unless there is something else that I might have missed in the install process...Anyone else ever have an experience like this with their PTO? Any light on this situation will be much appreciated.
In light of this, I'm going to take everything apart and install that snap ring back in and gap that out that small distance to see if that is enough to make a difference in my operation. Unless there is something else that I might have missed in the install process...Anyone else ever have an experience like this with their PTO? Any light on this situation will be much appreciated.
I am rebuilding a 127 and installing an electric lift. The orignal manual lift and 3 point hitch had a spring assist. Should it be reinstalled with the electric lift? Would it hurt or help? I can not seem to find a cross for 483b yellow paint, can anyone help me with these questions?
Thanks, Randy
Thanks, Randy
Joshua, my guess is that the thrust button is bottoming out on the end of the crankshaft like I think was happening on my #2 125. I ended up having to adjust it until it worked which was quite a bit different from the specs in the service manual... The one problem that I have now is that to get it to fully engage I have to move the lever out past the stop. It works this way but it isn't correct.
Way back when I was having the issues after installing the rebuilt PTO and new bearing I needed it working and have not had the time to investigate it.
I should probably pull it all apart and move the bearing out 1/6" past the end of the crank and see if that fixes it. I think I might wait until I hear what you find though.
Randy, WELCOME!
I would keep the spring assist in there, it will help take some strain off of the electric lift. My understanding it that the 483b paint is the same color as the 483 the only difference is the 483b had a rust inhibitor in it. The 483 PAINT CODES should get you the correct color.
You can't tell me my snake oil & Sta-Bil don't work!
I put this away 3+ years ago with a full tank of gas.
I dug it out today, choked it and it fired right off!
I was actually surprised, LOL
CLICK HERE to see the start up.
I put this away 3+ years ago with a full tank of gas.
I dug it out today, choked it and it fired right off!
I was actually surprised, LOL
CLICK HERE to see the start up.
pfitzwater
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- Apr 28, 2011
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- Patrick James Fitzwater
Hello every one, I have a question about my mower deck on my 128. the two pulleys in the front that directs the belt 90 degrees to the pto. Do they align with each other? my pulley with the spring sits way back. I have let my grass get the tallest it has ever been (two weeks of rain after a drought) and I have the deck as high as I can and the belt keeps coming off and twisting up. I assume it is not having proper tension on the belt and with the grass being thick and damp.
The belt also rubs up on the bracket that holds the pulley with the spring on. After the sixth time this happened it finally cut into the belt and I gave up for the night.
I see that this pulley should be 3 1/2 inches from the outside but I am wondering if maybe I have the wrong spring on or if things are worn and miss-aligned
The belt also rubs up on the bracket that holds the pulley with the spring on. After the sixth time this happened it finally cut into the belt and I gave up for the night.
I see that this pulley should be 3 1/2 inches from the outside but I am wondering if maybe I have the wrong spring on or if things are worn and miss-aligned
Patrick F.
jchamberlin
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Patrick James: You're supposed to adjust the pulleys so that the mule drive frame sits between the to triangular notches in the ratchet. This usually means that the pulley with the spring sits a little bit further back than the pulley with the adjusting bolt.
The belt needs to be the right length for the adjustment process to work. Check out my "V-Belt / B-Belt Dilemma" in CCC/MTD section Here, there are several shots of an 82 series tractor; but except for the size of the pulleys, the same principles apply to the 1x8/9 series.
The belt needs to be the right length for the adjustment process to work. Check out my "V-Belt / B-Belt Dilemma" in CCC/MTD section Here, there are several shots of an 82 series tractor; but except for the size of the pulleys, the same principles apply to the 1x8/9 series.
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- Binder 1650
Patrick F - sounds like you have a belt that's to long. I went through this with my 109's belt...
before I got the correct size. All is good now - knock on wood.
BILL, PATRICK - You don't mention which mower you have on your 128, may have been in an earlier post but I didn't check. If you have a 38, 42, or 48 inch deck the mule drive should have an adjustment stud/bolt on the idler pulley without the spring. You should adjust that so the two pulleys are about the same distance from the front of the mule drive. With the correct belt they should be in line right under the PTO clutch pulley.
If you have a 44" deck, that mule drive should have the release lever which really doesn't allow adjustment of the alignment for the two idler pulleys.
As long as I've always used IH/CC belts I've never had a problem throwing the mule drive belt off. Not all other belts like all the twisting & bending the mule drive belts have to do. Guess I've been lucky, but I remember KRAIG saying he had a problem throwing the mule drive belt once and he "Reversed" it, problem solved. You might try that too. V-belts have a "memory" and don't like to run backwards, just like tires.
If you have a 44" deck, that mule drive should have the release lever which really doesn't allow adjustment of the alignment for the two idler pulleys.
As long as I've always used IH/CC belts I've never had a problem throwing the mule drive belt off. Not all other belts like all the twisting & bending the mule drive belts have to do. Guess I've been lucky, but I remember KRAIG saying he had a problem throwing the mule drive belt once and he "Reversed" it, problem solved. You might try that too. V-belts have a "memory" and don't like to run backwards, just like tires.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Charlie P. Neat!!! What kind of snakes do you get your oil from?
I ended up borrowing a belt from one of Ryan M.'s mower decks that he had. I forgot my spare deck was a 38" deck and I needed a 42" spindle belt. After taking Fancy for a cruise around Colo while putting away the 125 I went to step on the brake pedal and first time ever the pedal didn't work. The 125 went into the back of the Keepsake 1650s top lift bar. Now I have an awful dent and gouge in my otherwise flawless 125 grill screen. I'll try and get a picture after bit. Man talk about heartbreaking. I had that screen for ten years and never once even came close to such a thing.
I ended up borrowing a belt from one of Ryan M.'s mower decks that he had. I forgot my spare deck was a 38" deck and I needed a 42" spindle belt. After taking Fancy for a cruise around Colo while putting away the 125 I went to step on the brake pedal and first time ever the pedal didn't work. The 125 went into the back of the Keepsake 1650s top lift bar. Now I have an awful dent and gouge in my otherwise flawless 125 grill screen. I'll try and get a picture after bit. Man talk about heartbreaking. I had that screen for ten years and never once even came close to such a thing.
Ok, so I cut out those nasty cuts on my frame. I don't own a welder or know how to weld... but I am going to learn. I thought this was a cool looking solution.
The unfortunate find though was all the rust under the paint... What do I do with this? Is this frame no good?
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
The unfortunate find though was all the rust under the paint... What do I do with this? Is this frame no good?
Charlie was here.
Charlie was here.
CHUCK - IH NEVER used any kind of primer under their paint, even on trucks. They did use a "sealer" on gray iron castings, but that was mostly so they could store them outside the plants.
Any chip or scratch in the paint would allow rust to form under the layer of paint. More work with the rotary wire brush would get those small areas of surface rust down to bare shiny steel. Nothing wrong with your frame, just needs more work.
3M makes an abrasive disk that's linda like a Scotch-Brite pad that I've used for preparing steel for paint. They last a long time compared to sand paper, put a nice texture on steel that holds paint well but covers good so you don't see scratches.
Any chip or scratch in the paint would allow rust to form under the layer of paint. More work with the rotary wire brush would get those small areas of surface rust down to bare shiny steel. Nothing wrong with your frame, just needs more work.
3M makes an abrasive disk that's linda like a Scotch-Brite pad that I've used for preparing steel for paint. They last a long time compared to sand paper, put a nice texture on steel that holds paint well but covers good so you don't see scratches.
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- Allen Schumacher
Chuck and Tom. Just went back to the origional photo post of the 'cuts'. Is it possible they were from a belt riding improperly? In the past there have been some photos of severe belt notches on the front axel.
Denny, the reversing the mower mule drive belt tip was originally from David Schmidt.
Chuck, I like your axle saddle fix. I think it looks kinda cool to. The rust is very minimal, just clean it up with an angle grinder with a wire cup brush, or a sanding disc or with a sandblaster. Then put on a fresh coat of paint, don't forget to put some paint runs in it like the factory did, and it'll be as good as new.
Chuck, I like your axle saddle fix. I think it looks kinda cool to. The rust is very minimal, just clean it up with an angle grinder with a wire cup brush, or a sanding disc or with a sandblaster. Then put on a fresh coat of paint, don't forget to put some paint runs in it like the factory did, and it'll be as good as new.
