Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - that snap ring Charlie lists is the one that mounts inside the PTO clutch cast housing. It serves as the stop so the clutch can't slide to far onto the bearing. You've confused it with the one that comes mounted inside the bearing that doesn't allow the bearing to slide onto the crackshaft quite far enough. I believe Joshua mentioned it keeps the bearing about 1/8" from lining up even with the end of the crank. I did check my parts manual and see a couple different bearing part numbers but Charlie lists all 3 numbers along with a 4th number as the same single item. I don't think there is a difference between the 2 styles of PTO clutches (original and blade/brake style used on the late 1x8/1x9), but sure can't tell from the parts listing. I did check the Service Manual as well and there is no mention of any difference for the bearing installation. It only indicates to install the bearing flush with the end of the cranksahaft. Obviously you can't do this if you have the bearing with that internal snap ring so I've always removed it.
Amy - hopefully you have an Operator Manual for your 104. It will provide alot of info on the Creeper, where it's located and I think it will have info on using it. For throwing snow it is highly recommended for gear drive tractors. It gives you 3 additional forward slower speeds, and one additional reverse (although you wouldn't use that one for throwing snow that I'm aware of). It sounds as tho since you are continually replacing your brake pedal spring you already realized you have to use your brake pedal alot. I think you're actually slipping the clutch to slow the tractor down to avoid overloading the thrower. Adding a Creeper will certainly lessen your need to do this and avoid unnecessary wear on your drive clutch. Maybe you wouldn't have to replace that spring so often either. As for locating a Creeper, well the Sponsors in those boxes at the top of the page will usually have them. Some might even have a NOS unit, but there are enough donor tractors around you can usually also find a used one. Keep an eye on the Classifieds as well since a Creeper comes up in there once in a while - but condition of those are risky (unless it's me selling it and it's a BIG risk. Best I can usually say is "worked when removed"). Installing a Creeper is fairly straight forward and I think the manuals thread section may even have the IH directions for adding it. I'm not saying it's necessarily easy but you'll want to allow yourself plenty of time since it does require removal of your current drive clutch assembly. You have to shorten your drive shaft but it does have a mark identifying where it has to be cut. The holes for the role pins are already there. While you have your clutch out you just as well make sure it's all in good condition. The Creeper mounts on the front of the rear differential housing and connects to the little stub shaft sticking out. I'd say an experienced Cub mechanic with proper tools could probably go thru everything and complete the installation in 2 to 4 hours. One with "some" experience might take 4 to 8 hours depending on items requiring repair/replacement, and an inexperienced Cub owner maybe 2 days based on figuring out things and putting everything together correctly. Again, it's not necessarily difficult just takes time. I definitely recommend the service manual and install instructions. I probably shouldn't admit this but the Creeper comes with a breather on the top, a side fill plug for checking the level of the fluid, and a bottom drain plug. When installing the Creeper you won't have any fluid in it. I remember the 2nd or 3rd one I installed, I just jumped in believing I remembered everything involved, etc. Of course everything went well. I got the Creeper installed, the drive clutch assembly re-installed, engine back in place, etc. It may be because I did this over a couple day period, but I got to the point of adding the fluid. I just couldn't remember how I had done it before. I had the breather and drain plug installed and just couldn't figure out how to get fluid into that little side plug. I knew the fluid had to be filled up to the level of the side plug. I ended up taking a straw and trying to fit it into the side plug hole and then pour fluid into the straw. What a mess, and on a freshly painted tractor (which actually helped when I cleaned it off). I finally got so dang frustrated I decided I better look at the dang instructions cause something just wasn't right. There in plain site was the information about removing the breather and filling it level with the side plug. Don't tell anyone on here I admitted to this. If anyone asks I'll deny it. Of course having Hydro in my name is there for a reason. A Hydro unit is really the best for operating a thrower. No drive clutch and you have infinitely variable speed. You might want to just consider picking up a Hydro unit to use with your thrower. Most of the guys on here have really decided it's best to have a tractor for each attachment you have. Guys into it BIG time have a tractor for mowing, tractor for throwing, tractor for blading, and those really really big time will have another tractor just to pull a cart, and then another tractor just to get some seat time. I used to love running my 1450 up and down the road in front of my house, no attachments, full speed WOT, wind blowing in my hair (when I had hair) and nose getting occassionaly Kohler fumes. Gotta Love It.
Well, I'm near the character posting limit and it's almost to much for others to read. Keep us informed of what you do.
