Matt and Richard, I'm going to try and fix it but it will be easier said then done. The guy I bought it off had it torn mostly apart and didn't give me all of the parts. I'll try to get a few pics for you tomarrow. I'll certainly need your help with the valve and guide replacment as I've never done anything like that before.
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Archive through September 09, 2009
- Thread starter mreed
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
avanwettering
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- displayname
- Andy Van Wettering
try this.
LARRY S. - re. missing 1/4" threads on PTO clutch, YES, You can drill & tap for 5/16" threads. BTDT on the clutch on my 72 MANY many years ago.
MICHAEL R. - There's pretty good instructions in the Kohler Classic engine manual about how to remove & reinstall valve guides in the old K-series engines. Nothing special required in the way of tools, but I would suggest making sure the machine shop that does the boreing/honing of the bore reams the ID of the new guide for proper clearance before they grind the valves & seats. There's pretty tight tolerances on the valve stem to guide clearance.
I've rebuilt 5-6 K-series engines and had excellent service from them all and have never replaced a valve guide yet. Every engine has gotten a new exhaust valve however.
MICHAEL R. - There's pretty good instructions in the Kohler Classic engine manual about how to remove & reinstall valve guides in the old K-series engines. Nothing special required in the way of tools, but I would suggest making sure the machine shop that does the boreing/honing of the bore reams the ID of the new guide for proper clearance before they grind the valves & seats. There's pretty tight tolerances on the valve stem to guide clearance.
I've rebuilt 5-6 K-series engines and had excellent service from them all and have never replaced a valve guide yet. Every engine has gotten a new exhaust valve however.
thenrie
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- Sep 3, 2009
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- Tony Henrie
Well, Last night I took a look at the 1650 I mentioned yesterday. Blasted the scum and grease off with a couple cans of engine cleaner and a pressure sprayer. Tried to jump-start it and got the engine to turn over, so at least it's not froze-up. No steering, though. It appears the last time it was driven, somebody hit a stump pretty hard and drove the front axle back under the frame, ripping the pivot pin right through it's hole in the crossmember. So, no steering and a bit of repair work to do. On the bright side, I'm betting that is why the thing was parked in the woods and not because the hydro or engine had gone bad. As a matter of fact, it looks like the thing had undergone a restoration at some point in its life. The tires all held air when I pumped them up. The hydro control is rusted tight, but some WD-40 or PB Blaster should free that up. I'm going to be looking for parts on the classified section, so if anybody has an old 1650 they're parting out, keep an eye there for me. I'm having fun already! Pics coming soon!
I've read the FAQ on hydro's speeding up and slowing down. My 782 seems to slow down going up a hill, yet does not really speed up going down a hill. I do have tractor movement when I move the lift lever...but not much. I can live with it. It doesn't really move...just feels like it wants to. So I don't want to try and adjust pressures or tear inside as of yet.
But I do have jerky movement when I move the lever. Its not terrible. But its definately not as smooth as it used to be years ago. The slots for the spring(s) do not appear worn at all. But the springs themselves seem to have compressed and are loose in their normal positions. Do you think that new springs and button ends will help me? I'll measure the slots...but they look perfect. I just want to smooth it back out a little.
Also...I think that the seal on the hydro input shaft is leaking. I get grime buildup over time. If I power wash it...it eventually comes back. No leaks on the floor however. I've removed the driveshaft for all new rubber discs...and this would be a good time to install a new shaft seal. I have to remove the yolk by taking out a roll pin, but my "weaver machine shop" roll pin remover won't fit around this piece. Do I drill it out? Or use a small drift? I don't want to "pound" the shaft to oblivion. Even further...installation of a new one might be tough if I don't want to use a hammer.
But I do have jerky movement when I move the lever. Its not terrible. But its definately not as smooth as it used to be years ago. The slots for the spring(s) do not appear worn at all. But the springs themselves seem to have compressed and are loose in their normal positions. Do you think that new springs and button ends will help me? I'll measure the slots...but they look perfect. I just want to smooth it back out a little.
Also...I think that the seal on the hydro input shaft is leaking. I get grime buildup over time. If I power wash it...it eventually comes back. No leaks on the floor however. I've removed the driveshaft for all new rubber discs...and this would be a good time to install a new shaft seal. I have to remove the yolk by taking out a roll pin, but my "weaver machine shop" roll pin remover won't fit around this piece. Do I drill it out? Or use a small drift? I don't want to "pound" the shaft to oblivion. Even further...installation of a new one might be tough if I don't want to use a hammer.
Neil, KENtucky made two (or three if you count the combo unit that did both) versions of the pin tool, one for gear drives and one for hydros, you must have the gear drive version.
Well here's the carnage pic for the day.
This is the top of the valve and whats left of it still stuck in the guide. Sure looks like someone broke it off by trying to pry it out with a crow bar judging by the scratches on the underside.
This shows the bottem of that valve and the push rod at its highest point.
And finally here is the whole tractor (well for the most part what I have of the engine stuff is in my shop) Not too shabby, its straight as can be with nary a dent or bend that I can see. Looks to have a Std. piston in it too.
I thought these came with the narrow wheels in the front or am I wrong?
It also has an IH dealership sticker on it. First one I've ever bought that did.
This is the top of the valve and whats left of it still stuck in the guide. Sure looks like someone broke it off by trying to pry it out with a crow bar judging by the scratches on the underside.
This shows the bottem of that valve and the push rod at its highest point.
And finally here is the whole tractor (well for the most part what I have of the engine stuff is in my shop) Not too shabby, its straight as can be with nary a dent or bend that I can see. Looks to have a Std. piston in it too.
I thought these came with the narrow wheels in the front or am I wrong?
It also has an IH dealership sticker on it. First one I've ever bought that did.
Michael, the wide "flotation" front tires were optional. Looks like it also has the optional 23x8.50-12 rear tires. 6-12 rear tires would have been standard on the 800.
Oh and I almost forgot. This pic was on my camera from the Tristate tractor show a few weekends back. I know someone on here made one like this out of a 125 I just forget his name. But this ones a bit different with the twin cyl engine in it. I'll bet theres a good chance that someone on here owns it or knows the guy that does but I thought it was neat.
Michael Reed,
Nice photo. I would spray it with the likes of BP Blaster and watch it soak in and do it again and again. I would adjust the lifter as low as I could and start tapping the stem down. When it moves turn the engine so the lifter pushes it back up. Repeat soaking and moving until it's lose. then remove the lifter and take the stem out.
Don't worry about the guide. You will be buying a new one anyway (about $15.00). Just don't break the case where the guide is sitting. This is giong to be an exercise in patients. Not a one hour job.
Nice photo. I would spray it with the likes of BP Blaster and watch it soak in and do it again and again. I would adjust the lifter as low as I could and start tapping the stem down. When it moves turn the engine so the lifter pushes it back up. Repeat soaking and moving until it's lose. then remove the lifter and take the stem out.
Don't worry about the guide. You will be buying a new one anyway (about $15.00). Just don't break the case where the guide is sitting. This is giong to be an exercise in patients. Not a one hour job.
J
jott
Guest
Mike R, thats nothin compared to whats going on around here and its not a friend doing it. just someone messing with me
Don B and all you other guys , thanks painting a Cub Cadet is a big job and I do want to do a 104 and my O this winter. When I took the 129 apart I bagged all the bolts and parts in ziplock bags and put a note in each bag to help with putting the 129 back together. If and when I had a problem I would just look up the parts list and solve the ? . This worked great for me and will do my O the same way I think.
Don B That is the inside of my 28ft x30 ft garage where the picture was taken, I had taken some time to put some things away so i had more room to move.This was my first Cub to paint and I want to paint the rest some day.I will have to touch up some paint scratches from putting it back together
I will be back at the 129 on Monday to get it running and take it back to get the hyd hoses cleaned up, But this weekend the wife and I will take the 5th wheel and go camping , its our 34th wedding anniversary (Sept 13th 1975). Have a GREAT Cub Day All....... Later Don T
Don B That is the inside of my 28ft x30 ft garage where the picture was taken, I had taken some time to put some things away so i had more room to move.This was my first Cub to paint and I want to paint the rest some day.I will have to touch up some paint scratches from putting it back together
I will be back at the 129 on Monday to get it running and take it back to get the hyd hoses cleaned up, But this weekend the wife and I will take the 5th wheel and go camping , its our 34th wedding anniversary (Sept 13th 1975). Have a GREAT Cub Day All....... Later Don T
rmclements
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- Joined
- Jul 15, 2009
- Messages
- 49
- displayname
- Robert M. Clements
Don T.--HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!!
We just celebrated or 30th on the 1st of this month.
We just celebrated or 30th on the 1st of this month.
I'm sure I have the gear drive pin removal tool...because I bought it when I was working on my 72. Now that I've got the fenders off and everything is spotless clean...I'll run it and try to locate the leak before I drain/fill the hytran and install my new 6096 filter.
I started out with a belt running upside down, thus destroying itself, because of a bad mule drive pulley. The belts were the originals and have 1900 hours on them. I was sad to lose them because they were the originals and I was proud of how long they lasted grandpa...and now me. They were made in the USA...the new "IH" ones are made in Mexico. Probably get 500 hours out of these. Anyhow this turned into me "fixing" everything else I wanted to "while it was down". So the 122 will be mowing for perhaps the rest of the season now.
It does OK...just slower.
I will say this, as everyone knows, that the 782 is just a great machine. Everytime I strip it down, clean everything and freshen up a few parts, I can't help but seeing how this thing will never need replaced because of wear and tear. Its just such a great design...yet simple.
I started out with a belt running upside down, thus destroying itself, because of a bad mule drive pulley. The belts were the originals and have 1900 hours on them. I was sad to lose them because they were the originals and I was proud of how long they lasted grandpa...and now me. They were made in the USA...the new "IH" ones are made in Mexico. Probably get 500 hours out of these. Anyhow this turned into me "fixing" everything else I wanted to "while it was down". So the 122 will be mowing for perhaps the rest of the season now.
I will say this, as everyone knows, that the 782 is just a great machine. Everytime I strip it down, clean everything and freshen up a few parts, I can't help but seeing how this thing will never need replaced because of wear and tear. Its just such a great design...yet simple.
I found a 123 today, it appears to be in good shape and has a deck and snowblade. The guy told me he would take $100 for it. I was out mowing on the 106 and decided I would buy it. I also decided I would sell the 1650 for 2 reasons.
1. Its bigger than I would ever need here at the house.
2. I dont have quite enough room for it either.
I can squeeze 3 NF in my shed better than 2 NF and a QL.
About the only thing I didnt care for in the 123 was it had some huge and wide tires on the back off of what appears to have been on a JD at some point. I will be posting the 1650 in the classifieds. Is there anything I oughta know about the 123 that I should look at before buying it? And are there any particular quirks that they have?
1. Its bigger than I would ever need here at the house.
2. I dont have quite enough room for it either.
I can squeeze 3 NF in my shed better than 2 NF and a QL.
About the only thing I didnt care for in the 123 was it had some huge and wide tires on the back off of what appears to have been on a JD at some point. I will be posting the 1650 in the classifieds. Is there anything I oughta know about the 123 that I should look at before buying it? And are there any particular quirks that they have?
