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Archive through October 31, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I have been having a slite problem with my cub 127. It seems every time I excite the electrons in the starter/gen case the crankshaft turns counterclockwise and propels the piston in a up and down motion and you can hear a high decible sound wave comming out of the metal tube sticking upwards at a slite angle near the grill casting of the cub cadet model 127.
What if anything can be done to correct this problem?
 
Lonny - it's a GX340 11HP.
Kraig - not me & not for any of those reasons. A PO must have done it for reasons best known to him. I have scoured all the pics you guys post to see if it was IH, & now that you have 'noticed' I think I will make a straight one. Oh, and also, what some of you (I think Kentuck) have said about that bolt through the top left steering link, was right, once I got it pressed out during reno, it is now loose, so it needs to go in favour of a roll pin. Also thanks for the ideas on tightening the front mount support with a bolt.
 
Hey fellow cubber's. The 128 overhaul moves on, I was thinking of adding a creeper drive, as the original 86 tunnel cover has the slot for it. Is there any mods to the rear when installing this, or is this a bolt on application? I have read that the creeper drive will work from a narrow or wide frame, is there a difference to make it work on my wideframe. I realize I will need a shorter driveshaft.
 
Todd H.

You will need to adjust your mower deck so the blades cut the grass no more that .50" high.
As it will take forever to mow any lawn of good size while useing the creeper gear.
 
Does anyone have a clear picture that clearly shows the positioning of the drive line componets on a 1200? I have replaced the clutch and teaser spring and now with my above 50 memory, I am not so sure I have replaced them in the proper sequence.
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It seems like I have too much play in the clutch pedal. I'm confused!
 
Some people emailed me asking me about the deflection on my one arm loader.
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Back in 2005 I did a deflection test to see how much flex I had loading the bucket with weight. I used up to about 300 lbs. I used a reference point on the frame and a reference point on the loader.

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Here are the results. The first point is with 100lbs in the bucket, the second point is with 200 lbs in the bucket, and the third point is with 300 lbs in the bucket. As you can see there is only .2" of flex. The .82" of drop is the cylinder compressing.
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The boom bushings that came with the kit were a plastic of some sort. I replaced them with brass. The brass is much tighter. Now the boom doesn't have any play at all. The bucket is a little sloppy. The back side of the bucket has 1/2" plates that the 1" pivot pin slides through. The 1/2" plates are loose on the pin allowing you to pick up the off boom side of the bucket about 1/4". If the loader had 2 booms then the off boom side of the bucket would be tighter. Its not enough to effect performance, its just there.

Make sense?
 
Tom B.
Click the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup button above. Enter in 1200 for the model and then select the drive line section and it will show ya how it all goes together.
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Alas! I remember where I heard about thatdreaded 12v electric oil pump. I'm pretty sure it wasn't here, but...

I'm pretty sure some asked about putting a hydraulic lift/bucket on a gear driven CC. So using an electric pump was suggested.

I'm not sure how I got so off base from that to an oiling system, but I've never been known to be the sharpest tool in the shed.
 
On another note, the reason I had an oiling system on my brain is because I have a puller too. I notice alot of excess wear on the cam, crank, rod (with bearing inserts), and even the main crank bearings.

Spinning these motors to 5,000rpm with a hot cam and slightly stroked crank using the splash style rod doesn't quite seem addequate. Especially once the front end comes up and the oil pools at the back of the block.

I'm trying to come up with an arrangement I saw in a Craftsman Truck series shop. I'm not going to devulge any secrets but, It would require an oil pump. belt driven or otherwise.

I've found a few good canidates, I'll keep you posted as R&D comes along. I figure $ spent in this will save me hand-over-fist in costly replacement, one-off parts.
 
Thanks Charlie. I printed that image of the drive line and it helps for sure. I have not installed the engine yet and I thought I could attach the clutch linkage and have enough pedal to slightly free up the clutch disc to help with alignment. What I found was not enough pedal to disengage the disc. It seems like I will have to really crank on the adjusting nut. It is still in the same position when I removed it.
 
Todd H.-

You don't need a creeper for plowing snow or dirt; in fact, plowing dirt you'll be going too slow. Creepers are necessary for snowthrowers and tillers, and I supposed if you're mowing 12-inch grass with a 50" deck and 12 h.p...

Anyway, basically the only mod you'll need to do is shorten the driveshaft. If yours is still original, you simply saw it off at the score mark. The WF and NF creepers are the same except for the handle. You can install a NF creeper in a WF by bending and extending the lever. Put in new spirol pins, bearing, and O-rings before you install. I've overhauled and installed 2 creepers, and put both into 128's. Feel free to send me an email or whatever if you have any real detailed questions. I can expand on anything I just said if necessary.
 
Terry the lift capacity is impressive as the workmanship. How many hours did it take to get it the way it is? I will most likely never find a loader round these parts so I'm curiouse.
 
Todd H.

A creeper gear works great for snow plowing, all you have to do is lock the steering wheel in place, let out the clutch and step off the tractor and head back to the warmth of the house, when the cub gets to the end of the drive run out and turn it around for the next pass. Beats sitting on the cold seat the entire time it takes to plow snow off a long driveway.


Dean S.
You had an opertunity to purchase a home made loader a few weeks ago and passed.
Its a good thing too cuase without it I would have had to load all that sand with a shovel.
 
Lonny I need one for a wide frame. I don't have the pile of parts reassembled into a narrow frame yet.
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OK, questions answered. But one left, is there ANY plus to the creeper drive besides running a blower or tiller?

Lonny, where does this ill feeling toward the creeper come from? I know it is Halloween but.....
 
Todd.

Yeah, the tractor goes slow enough not to spill your beer.

No ill fellings towards a creeper, just having a bit of fun
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Dean,
What do you mean, you aint had the time to reassemble the pile of parts back into a narrow frame tractor, come on now, everyone knows it only takes a couple of hours to fully assemble a narrow frame cub.
I know I could do it in 4 hours or less seeing how many different times I have had torn my cubs apart and reassembled them for the lack of some thing else to do in the dead of winter.
 
Nic - Okay so you're wanting to put a dry sump on a Kohler... no secret there and this isn't the pulling section.

Lonny - You didn't price your loader did ya ?
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Terry, Thanks, thats exectly what I was wondering about. A friend of mine I grew up with owns a recycling yard bout 2 miles from me, I get some nice choice pieces from him. If I can't find what I need he calls me when he gets it so cost isn't very relative. When ever someone brings in a Cub it gets put aside till I get there. Pretty sweet deal
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Bren
 
KenTucky,

I don't rember if I did price the loader.
Dean and I talked about so many different things that day, and I rember showing him the loader when it was sitting in the weeds along the fence row. Now however it in attached to my 72 and has been getting a good work out digging and loading sand so I can widen my driveway.
 
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