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Archive through October 29, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Lewis:
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it happens
 
Hi Guys,

I was hoping someone could comment on the slight modification IH made to the wind wing design on mower blades when the older, pin on cast end decks were replaced with stamped decks. Illustrations on the Cub Cadet parts site show this, but an actual photo would be helpful. Newer replacement blades will work on either deck, but I'd like to find a good set of the older variety...it seems they are very hard to find now.
 
STEVE B. - I can NOT believe Steve III is old enough to go SOLO plowing.

KRAIG - Do you run in 1st or 2nd gear plowing? Back when I first started plowing with my 72 it still had the K181, the stock GY turfs and no chains, only a set or two of weights. I could spin-out and stop on a rotten tomato. Most fall garden plowing was done in 1st gear. I'd do my Sister-in-law's two big gardens, then stop at Dad's 4-5 miles away and plow his garden.

Wasn't till PD #1 that I could actually run good in 2nd gear, the 72 has the fast 19T 2nd, with the K241 & Firestone tires.

With good lugged tires & weights a K161 is more than enough power to plow.
 
Just a note to the guy with the cc that dies after about 10 minutes of operation. A friend of mine had a similar problem. The easy fix was to check for the lack of spark at the plug. If this is true. Remove the breaker points. Remove the plunger that activates them. He found his plunger would not come out easily as it was coated with a slight film of varnish. Work it out and clean it with a little throttle plate cleaner. Then get a pipe cleaner and do the same with the bore in the crankcase. The varnish heats up and causes the plunger to not ride on the cam and holding the points open resulting in no spark. Replace the plunger and be sure to re-gap the breaker points...Richard.. good luck
 
Dennis -- Thanks for your earlier insights on the brake on my 100. Apparently a spring was adjusted too tight which caused something to strike the steering column as the pedal was activated. Works great now!
 
Kraig M. Angel, Fancy & I agree. That is one very cute and smart kitty that you have.

Marcelle F. Donald T. summed it up right. Welcome to the BEST CUB CADET SITE on the web. p.s. I am pretty sure that cab fits our Keepsake 1650 only. So put it on the cub Cadet Transportation Network and send it to Iowa A.S.A.P.
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Richard Quaas
Thanks for that info. the light went on as I read your post. I can see that being an issue for sure. I had a problem with the pin wear and could not get the points set to work and now have spare (new) pins here if I have that issue again.
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Now that I have a snow thrower on my 122, I have on more question. I don't have a heated garage and some nights it gets pretty darn cold in there and unlike the car the tractor doesn't get used daily. Do I need to do anything special with the battery in my 122?
 
How about all the super maintenance people,. I am dismantiling a 122 for restortion and the front axle pin is lose and wobbles but it will not come out not even with a punch and hammer will it hurt it if I heat it up any other suggestions. Ron
 
Ron B.
I hesitate to ask, but since you say the pin wobbles and is loose.
Have you removed the spirol pin that holds the axle pin in place?
There's no reason other than the pin hitting the oil pan for it not to come out.
 
On the front axel pin no coming out, I had the one in my 147 wore so much it was like an ecentic and I had to turn it to get it lined up coming thru the axel.
 
Donald T and Marlin H,
Thanks for the welcome. I pulled up images of the 1650 and it sure looks like it might fit. Then I got looking at other models that also looked like it might fit, so I went out and measured it. If anyone has the time to check measurements on their tractors I'd appreciate it. I might get arrested however, because probably now every time I see one locally, I'll be stopping to measure it.
It measures from top to bottom of the door 54" in front which is 10 1/2" wide then it rises to 44" high in back which is 18 1/2 wide , the entire door is 37" wide. The cab itself is 31" wide. The windshield is 22" high and from bottom of windshield to bottom of door 32". There are 5" wide pans on the bottom that follow the shape of the door bottoms front to back, with about 20" between them. The heavy gray fabric would extend out over the hood about 30".
When I discovered it wouldn't fit my Lo Boy, I thought maybe I could split it in half, widen it and put it on my big Massey, but the doors don't even come close to working.
Guess maybe Ill have to start watching for a Cadet. Mother will be real pleased, "Just what you need, another tractor"
Here's another view of it from the other side.
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Matt H., Don T., I thought everyone only used two bolts per weight. A quick look through my archives shows that the vast majority of people use only two bolts per weight. If you look close you can see that the other holes in the rim are being used to bolt the inside weights on.

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Denny, 1st gear. When I had K4K at the Osceola plow day this past spring I used 2nd gear. I only had the turfs and one set of weights on it and it did quite well.
 
Well, everyone, my 70, 100, and 123 restorations are finally complete and everything seems to be in good working order now. The 100 and 123 will be used for mowing and snow removal; the 70 strictly for parades and shows. Thanks to everyone on this Forum for their incredible support on this project! I would like to extend a special public thanks to Dave Ross for his generous personal assistance and helpful expertise, and to the many local mechanics and parts specialists who helped along the way. The restoration process, though more time consuming than I initially expected, has been unbelievably rewarding and a terrific learning experience. I'm glad I survived the yellow fever bug --- at least for now!
 
KRAIG, DON, MATT - Kraig is correct, plus if you put 2nd & 3rd sets of weights on the outside you need that other pair of holes to bolt the additional weights to. I've seen four pair of weights on CC's, trying to get a stack that long onto a single set of bolts would be tough.

And using lengths of threaded rod just doen't look "professional".

Years ago when pulling tractors ran in two or three different classes a night pullers would weld up brackets to their wheels so they could slap wheel weights on in seconds. Typical plan on IH 1-pc weights was two channel irons inside the oblong hex-shaped center hole, or two pipes for the hand-holds around the OD. Something similar could be done on a CC.

On a typical pull, the weights would have to be put on and taken off twice during the night, once for weigh-in, then removed because the lighter classes pulled first, then as the night progressed the weights all ended up back on the tractor. Then after the pull the weights were all removed again, never saw anyone ever haul a tractor with all the weights attached except maybe antique tractors.
 

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