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Archive through October 21, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Duak plugs isn't always a fix-all for timely ignition, in-fact, it can cause MORE knock/detonation. Two flame fronts colliding within the combustion chamber could have some odd and unwanted results too.
 
Cub Cadet 122 Transmission Problem --
The transmission on my recently acquired Model 122 appears to be inoperative. The tractor will roll with the shift lever in any of the four gears.
Best guesses at what is broken and suggestions for what to try to see if I can isolate the problem.

Great Forum.

MDCalvert
Oak Ridge, TN
 
Melvin,
The first thing I would check for is a broken spirol pin in the driveshaft.
 
Bruce 'M',
How big is your garden. I think Mike "M" has a subsoiler.
 
Does anyone know what size bolts (x4) are used to attach engine to frame on a Cub 127?
 
I don't know about dual plugs on a flathead, but dual plugs work great on a shovelhead!
 
How do you attach implements to the hitch on the 100. It's a cast iron tube sticking out the back. Lowe's has a box blade that says on the box that a "sleeve hitch is required". Is my 100's cast iron tube a sleeve hitch?
 
22417.jpg
 
Johnny,
Here's a photo of a cub that has a sleeve hitch. This is an original, but it should give you the idea.
22419.jpg

You ou need a piece that slides into your cast iron top lift arm and the rest of the hitch as shown here. Then you can attach sleeve hitch tools with one pin to the hitch.
 
Torin ,the best way that i have found to increase stock power is to deck the block to increase compression,when you mill the head,you loose some of your air window,then send your cam out and have it reground,and put on a 30 stamped carb,you will have to run a fuel pump with this combination,sure will be fun to plow with.
 
Another photo of a sleeve hitch with plow attached.
22421.jpg

You guys beat me to my previous post as I was home on my wifes PC and it is really slow editing photos so I can post them here.
crash.gif


Anyone getting excited yet about PD8? I think I'll make reservations for Friday night at ELPASO, where's everyone staying?

under edit.
Tom, I think I took that photo at spring tillage day Menomonie, WI in May of 2002. As I remember it belongs to Dan H. Anyone recognize the tractor in the post? Taken at Travis's PD last fall.

(Message edited by jlang on October 24, 2004)
 
Re: Garden Soil Drainage
First, I'm not even close to being a farmer, so thanks for excusing my ignorance. I guess I'm approaching this more as an engineering project. Our tiny-but-getting-bigger-each-year garden isn't solid clay, I just want to help it out.
Now that my neighbor's 3' diameter Chinese elm on our border is gone (and I don't have to worry about cutting any roots I find), I'm planning a swale to help direct drainage of the yard. I'm sure that will also involve a shovel and chainsaw to get rid of some fairly high roots. There's a low spot uphill from the garden that needs to go (swale leftover). That should do quite a bit for the garden, too. I think if I plow/compost/till from the low edge/corner of the garden to and including the swale, that will eliminate Dave's swimming pool effect without having to tile. Burning leaves here is an absolute no-no, especially with a fire station a quarter mile away.
Wyatt's suggestion of adding plant material (leaves, grass clippings) is definitely on the list of continuing jobs. I don't have any oaks around here, so that isn't much of a problem. At first I laughed at Tom's suggestion, but we're a mile and a half from Arlington Park racetrack, and three miles from a place that raises Arabians, so that suggestion actually seems pretty workable.
Lyle, I'll look into the nitrogen and lime info. I don't really plan on going deeper than I can go with my 10" Brinly, and then tie into the swale. Softwood leaves are needles. Wouldn't that raise the acidity of the soil?
 
Hmmm, perhaps we need a gardening topic cuz this has taken on a life of it's own and has strayed quite aways from Cub Cadets
wink.gif
 
Guess you're right. Sorry. I am planning on most of it being done with a 147 and attachments, though. I figured it was a garden tractor, so it would be related.
 
I've got an idea! Let's have PD8 tomorrow! Roanoke, IL weather looks great!
happy.gif

Mostly Sunny
66°F
 
Colliding flame-fronts really isn't a big problem. Early tests at muliple-plug heads suffered from some simple assumptions- 1) same plug and 2) same timing. The burn time of a dual-plug head is theoretically HALF that of a normal head (in reality, it's hard to hit that, but figure at least a quarter-to-half, if the plug is located well). This rises chamber pressure more rapidly.

Most make the mistake of running the same (hot) plug... when the better move is to run a cooler plug, to get heat away from the electrode tip. The other mistake is running too much ignition advance... between hot plugs and too much advance, you get preignition (and melted plugs).

So locate the plugs well (both of 'em, usually), drop back a few points in plug temp, and drop back 6 degrees or so of advance, and tune for maximum whomp.

The multiple-plug concept really has most effect in a shrouded, contorted chamber (like a flathead). Doesn't do much for a hemispherical or spheroidal, simply because those heads already have good flow, but the multiple-plug arrangement has been very proven in engines- especially in the 2.5l Ford Ranger four from '89 on.

I've been down this road with a Model A Ford and a Continental Red Seal head. Wish I could do it with my Chevy inline six, but there's no room.

Here's some good links on the subject.
http://www.visi.com/~moperfserv/2plug.htm

here's a link on flathead performance tests in the Model A Ford (a classic flathead design).
http://users.aol.com/gmaclaren/dyno.html
 

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