Keith O - I'm sure glad that pic of the key is blurry. I think you just figured out half your starting problems. I'd certainly head to your nearest parts store, get a key that says INDAK on it, and as soon as you're out the door throw that JD key as far as you can.
Bill J, Jeff B and Jonathan S - you darn toot'n every tractor has it's own personality. That's why many of the guys give'm a name. I'm actually surprised that Jeff can run his tanks bone dry. I've only had a few been able to do that. Most all have a little upward arc in the rubber fuel line from the tank to the carb. Since they are gravity fed on fuel I think you have to have some level of fuel in the tank to provide enough pressure to overcome the upward arc in the fuel line, sufficiently enough to keep the carb full. You'll more likely encounter the engine sputter if you're running at full throttle since that is when you are using the most gas. You may encounter the sputter and quickly pull back the throttle and she may idle fine, and you look in the tank and and see about 1/2" of gas so you don't think you're out, and then you rev her back up and run her a little and she starts sputterin again. You'll be alright at idel for awhile because the fuel flow will keep up for awhile with what you burn, but at full throttle the fuel flow won't. You'll probably have enough time at idle to get her to your re-fueling area, fill her up some and she'll be fine again. It's all pretty normal and part of learning the personality of your tractor. And get this - yes, if you got more hp you're more likely to encounter the engine actually dieing rather than sputtering, because more hp burns more gas. It may be why Bill hasn't actually encountered a "stalled" engine in his 10hp 109, yet others with 12 or 14hp it will actually die, they look in the tank and there is gas, and they can start it right back up (that little time is enough to fill the carb again) and push her up to full throttle, but have it die again shortly. There just isn't enough pressure from the low level in the tank to overcome the arc in the fuel line and keep the carb full. (I don't know why Jeff hasn't encountered this). Now Jonathan's 104 should have the glass blow filter and a metal fuel line so he would have a better chance to actually run the tank lower on fuel, but there has to be enough to fill the glass bowl and then flow to the carb. With the 2 or 2 and 1/2 gal tanks it really shouldn't be an issue once you learn how long you can run on a tank full. I always like to check my fuel level and check my oil level everytime before I started to use my tractor for something. It just became a habit. Most guys have to pop the hood to check their oil (except the 1x8/1x9 series) so why not check your fuel level at the same time.
Gary Z - yes the 100 headlight assembly bolts in the same as the blank out panel you have now. And yes all you need is the complete and correct assembly, the wiring and a switch. There were 2 styles of the assemblies used on the 70/100 but either works as long as it's complete. When you're looking make sure it doesn't have any broken threaded stems. There are 8 threaded stems/studs on the assembly. 2 are used on each headlight bezel surround (total of 4) and the other 4 are used to hold the panel in place, 2 on each side. These stems tend to be broken off. If you're good at welding you can probably weld another one on but the panel itself is pretty thin metal making it harder to do it good and look good without warping the panel.
