Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
He He He - Posted the other day about co-workers problems with His 5 yr old Simplicity. Has a blown head gasket, Seal in the hydro is leaking, plus to weld/repair frame of 16 HP (Kohler) lawn tractor $1500 total. Tractor only cost $3000 new. ALL this tractor has ever done is mow a city sized lot, No plowing, No snow removal, Guy said He's going to patch it up & trade for a Deere next spring. I'll try to set Him straight. I think He NEEDS My old 129!
He's divorced & His daughter is married & lives out-of-town. Sad state of affairs isn't it? Two or three other people I work with bought the same model tractor. The Monster Don V. runs sometimes doesn't have that problem I bet. The bigger orange Lawn & Garden tractors look pretty stout.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ok, I REALLY need an answer to this question now.
What do I torque the rearend cover bolts to, and in what order, for an aluminum rear?
I know, I know, RTFM, but this aint in the owners manual!!
On topic, I got a manual for my 100, too!
What do I torque the rearend cover bolts to, and in what order, for an aluminum rear?
I know, I know, RTFM, but this aint in the owners manual!!
On topic, I got a manual for my 100, too!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
On the parting out thing, I couldnt bring myself to doing that, but I am parting that hideous looking, slant grilled, 71 because there aint much original left on it, and it has really been modified. However, it is good that a few people are parting stuff, otherwise I would/will never find a hood for my 128.
<font size="-2">Time to put the soapbox away...</font>
<font size="-2">Time to put the soapbox away...</font>
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Center of the cover??
Please explain further.
Please explain further.
sblunier
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Matt,
....middle bolt on each side and work out toward the corners. The whole point is to try and evenly squeeze out the gasket without "bubbles" where the metal is trapped and can't lay out like it should........
FWIW, you are making too big of a deal of it.......just tighten them down evenly in a reasonable manner to a reasonable tightness and all will be well.
....middle bolt on each side and work out toward the corners. The whole point is to try and evenly squeeze out the gasket without "bubbles" where the metal is trapped and can't lay out like it should........
FWIW, you are making too big of a deal of it.......just tighten them down evenly in a reasonable manner to a reasonable tightness and all will be well.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
SOAB!!!!!! Am I PI$$ED......
I just put the new cork gasket in the 169.....went right back together, no problems
Took it for a test run around the block (love that big 16hp BTW
)......and the SOB is still leaking.
Extensive flashlight/creeper/oil dripping in your hair/dirt falling in your eyes research indicates that the left hydro case seal is leaking...the one you can't replace without splitting the whole hydro!!!!!! Turns out it was leaking oil down the case and onto the cork gasket...completely faked me out!!!!!
Just what I DIDN'T need....another project before PD!!!!
I just put the new cork gasket in the 169.....went right back together, no problems
Took it for a test run around the block (love that big 16hp BTW
Extensive flashlight/creeper/oil dripping in your hair/dirt falling in your eyes research indicates that the left hydro case seal is leaking...the one you can't replace without splitting the whole hydro!!!!!! Turns out it was leaking oil down the case and onto the cork gasket...completely faked me out!!!!!
Just what I DIDN'T need....another project before PD!!!!
jrichardson
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- jason richardson
Kraig and Don V. Are you saying that my singing sucks, or what I sang sucked? Sheeesh, you'd think that with my new light panel for the 123, and all the "light" I'd get, I'd have a chorus...
Charlie, I think that an addendum should be added. Art should have his own "field" even with a pedal tractor, I think someone could get hurt. And if someone feels sorry for Art and wants to let him try their Cub, make sure you set the Governor waaay down. You just have to watch out for a guy who operates a 59M with sandals...
Charlie, I think that an addendum should be added. Art should have his own "field" even with a pedal tractor, I think someone could get hurt. And if someone feels sorry for Art and wants to let him try their Cub, make sure you set the Governor waaay down. You just have to watch out for a guy who operates a 59M with sandals...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Thanks, SB.
I know I am probably being too careful, but I just wanted to be sure.
I am really surprised no one caught on to my ripping on slant grilles.
I know I am probably being too careful, but I just wanted to be sure.
I am really surprised no one caught on to my ripping on slant grilles.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Does anyone have a cross reference for the side and rear oil seals on a Sunstrand SU-15 hydro???
Does anyone have these seals in their posession and would they be willing to check them for #'s????
Does anyone know of a good website that will cross reference IH/CC part numbers to common seal manufacturer #'s????
Does anyone have these seals in their posession and would they be willing to check them for #'s????
Does anyone know of a good website that will cross reference IH/CC part numbers to common seal manufacturer #'s????
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
SB -
Not even the Sauer Sundstrand 15 series service manual gives part numbers, although it does mention the use of Loctite #5923 sealant on the outside diameter of the new seal before installation to prevent leaks.
It should be noted, though, that it was <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>'s "fault" that you have to split the hydro - stock U units appear to just have the shaft, a seal, a washer and a retaining ring on both sides. Little solace, I know...
Not even the Sauer Sundstrand 15 series service manual gives part numbers, although it does mention the use of Loctite #5923 sealant on the outside diameter of the new seal before installation to prevent leaks.
It should be noted, though, that it was <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>'s "fault" that you have to split the hydro - stock U units appear to just have the shaft, a seal, a washer and a retaining ring on both sides. Little solace, I know...
W
WM DeTurck
Guest
<font size="+1"><font color="0000ff">PD II PA SIGNUP</font></font>
Here is where you go to sign up for Plow Day in Sykesville, Pa. You will note that you must join The Past & Present Machinery Association(PPMA) to operate your tractor under their insurance. This membership will be good for next spring's PD III PA as the membership is good for a year. If the five bucks is keeping you from coming I will gladly pay for you. If you were their for the spring PD your dues is already paid.
Here is where you go to sign up for Plow Day in Sykesville, Pa. You will note that you must join The Past & Present Machinery Association(PPMA) to operate your tractor under their insurance. This membership will be good for next spring's PD III PA as the membership is good for a year. If the five bucks is keeping you from coming I will gladly pay for you. If you were their for the spring PD your dues is already paid.
Wes, Yes, I did mow once this summer with my blue & white cub 123 after fixing it up! It needed some attention, it was feeling bad sitting in the barn! Glad I got it out! The deere (my 300) started makeing a funny noise, turns out the muffler broke. I had that welded and have been using it since. The 4 extra horses, hydraulic deck lift and wider cut is nice! Still like that 123 though, & it is fast! Probably not as fast as my deeres with 26-12-12 rubber.
Definately not as fast as that jet powered cub we saw out at Huntington, IN last spring!
Hey, How about those Chicago Cubs!!!
Definately not as fast as that jet powered cub we saw out at Huntington, IN last spring!
Hey, How about those Chicago Cubs!!!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Bryan,
Yeah, I know......why couldn't it be the right side?!?!?!?!
It's not that I even mind the hydro split, it's not too bad of a job, what really pi$$es me off is the fact that I have to spend the hour and 1/2 taking it all apart AGAIN.
New Blunier rules for replacing gaskets/seals on "keeper" tractors: If the hydro is off for any reason it will get new seals all around and a new cork gasket. If the rear end cover is off the axle seals will get replaced. Both of these things have burned me on tractors that are new to me.
Man am I glad I drilled the case for a drain plug...sure is nice to work on the hydro without pulling the rear cover all of the time....here's hoping I won't need it for a while after I get the seals replaced!!!!
Yeah, I know......why couldn't it be the right side?!?!?!?!
It's not that I even mind the hydro split, it's not too bad of a job, what really pi$$es me off is the fact that I have to spend the hour and 1/2 taking it all apart AGAIN.
New Blunier rules for replacing gaskets/seals on "keeper" tractors: If the hydro is off for any reason it will get new seals all around and a new cork gasket. If the rear end cover is off the axle seals will get replaced. Both of these things have burned me on tractors that are new to me.
Man am I glad I drilled the case for a drain plug...sure is nice to work on the hydro without pulling the rear cover all of the time....here's hoping I won't need it for a while after I get the seals replaced!!!!
Steve B:
I think I have a set of those seals and never installed them because it would have been a huge PITA. Sold the tractor off instead.... (But at least I didn't part that one out!) I'll check and make sure I can find them post-move to IA and get back with you. If they're here, I'll get you the numbers.
I think I have a set of those seals and never installed them because it would have been a huge PITA. Sold the tractor off instead.... (But at least I didn't part that one out!) I'll check and make sure I can find them post-move to IA and get back with you. If they're here, I'll get you the numbers.
