Terrence W.
IH didn't do that. The PO musta grabbed what he had on hand after loosing the bolts.
IH didn't do that. The PO musta grabbed what he had on hand after loosing the bolts.
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Archive through October 01, 2007
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Sorry Charlie, guess again!
And then they go and put this photo in the manual too!
And then they go and put this photo in the manual too!
Kraig,
Cool! I never knew that. All I ever saw had bolts, go figure.
Cool! I never knew that. All I ever saw had bolts, go figure.
Charlie, the PO's of the Cubs you've seen probably changed the screws because of the same reasons that Terry was complaining about, those slot head screws are harder to get in/out then the hex head screws.
My conjecture on the slotted head screws for the mule drive is that it was an attempt to make the drive more "quick attach" by the home user who may only have been armed with a screwdriver and/or crescent wrench. I too have been stymied by a frozen slotted head screw in the same place. Without a welder to tack a nut on there's almost nothing to grab onto to turn. Possibly those hammer impact drivers the automotive brake guys use would work.
I just checked the pics on both my 102's and both have bolts.
This mule drive has never been removed, since new.
This mule drive has never been removed, since new.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Kraig -
Got a picture of the strap/pin that was used with the truss-head screw so ya didn't have to use a nut/bolt on the front holes? Thus preserving a "smooth look"...
And again, removal of these truss-head screws (along with the slotted style on footrests) requires use of a drag link socket.
Also, it has been determined here in the past that if you used a standard hex-head capscrew in the rear hole on the left side, you'd be in a whole lot of hurt under certain extreme turn/axle pivot conditions.
Got a picture of the strap/pin that was used with the truss-head screw so ya didn't have to use a nut/bolt on the front holes? Thus preserving a "smooth look"...
And again, removal of these truss-head screws (along with the slotted style on footrests) requires use of a drag link socket.
Also, it has been determined here in the past that if you used a standard hex-head capscrew in the rear hole on the left side, you'd be in a whole lot of hurt under certain extreme turn/axle pivot conditions.
Bryan, here's a home made set that Scott "BFH" Harris made up a few years back. Used here on a blade, rather then a mower deck mule drive, mounted on a 122. And it appears that "BFH" installed them backwards....(<font size="-2">under edit</font>)...or not, as the CW36 manual shows...
Bryan's correct...those screws were used in the Non-Q/A equipped tractors because the steering arm can and WILL contact the head of a hex-head capscrew in that position. BT-DT...and the 70 has the bent steering arm to prove it!
