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Archive through November 23, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bjohnson

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Oct 18, 2007
Messages
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Brian Johnson
Ken, I know it is getting spark and fuel. I have a new 330 CCA Diehard fully charged. Engine spins freely. When I turn the key to start, all I get is a click. I turn the S/G by hand 1/4 turn, then try again. Bingo, she motors. But if I stop and try again, all I get is the click again. I'm thinking brushes here. Because the S/G will motor but only 1/2 of the time. If I get it to motor enough, engine will start. Are these enough clues? Thanks.
 
Ok, now we've got something to work with..If you're sure that all the connections are clean and tight (especially the grounds) your statement "I turn the S/G by hand 1/4 turn, then try again. Bingo, she motors" would pretty much identify a dead spot in the starter commutator, or bad windings. It could be brushes on their very last gasp, but I gotta tell ya, the Delco S/Gs I've worked with were pretty easy on brushes. Sounds like time to take 'er apart....
 
Thanks Ken. I just tried to jump it with my truck. Same thing happens. I do notice the pulley end on the S/G gets warm after cranking.
 
Has anyone ever tried to use an automobile power steering pump and perhaps steering cylinders as a basis for CC hydraulic lift system or whatever?
 
What is the row spacing on a wide frame cub cadet. From center of tractor to center of front/rear tire. 15 inches????? 30 inches overall????
 
Doug W.
Here's one that was used for a loader setup years back.
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Hi guys , i need to know who is the expert on the governor and what or where the holding screw is used. I have found that its not working and now have a idea as to how it works. I just want someone to say how to set the holding screw on the governor. Thanks Don T

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scan0001-138430 the governor.pdf (99.4 k)</td></tr></table></center>
 
Reggie:
Ya got a tape measure?? Your profile sez you own a 169 (wide frame..)
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Well, I have to say its been a few weeks since I fired off the 128. So, earlier today I went out to the cub shed. I was expecting a dead battery. Opened the fuel shut-off, two revoulutions at full choke and the old girl came to life. I have to say, it put a big cub smile on my face!
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Charlie, Well I dont have way too much time and definatly dont have the money(kids and home ownership suck the life out of ya!!). Perhaps I will part it out instead, there has to be some usable stuff there!
 
Kendall, So how do you fix a dead spot in the S/G communicator? Brian's problem sounds like what I'm going through although I think mine are a little more severe. I have a good auto electrical shop in the next town over, would it be wise to have the S/G and the V/R both rebuilt?
 
Scott S,

The brushes do need to be replace on the S/G's occasionally. I'm sure the auto electrical shop nearby you can check it out to see if there is a dead spot in the armature and install a new set of brushes for you. They are easy to replace and cost around $10/pr. Also it's a good idea to check the front bearing as well. I don't think there's much that can be rebuilt on a voltage regulator. If your battery has been staying charged, I wouldn't mess with it.
 
Donald,

Where can I find the rebuild instructions you used in your post about the governor? I haven't run across this particular one yet, and it looks helpful.

Thanks,

Nick
 
Kendell, The best I can measure is 30" row spacing so thats what I'm building my plow at. I'm sure someone has the technical data on hand just in case I need to adjust my dimension a 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch.
 
Ron, the battery is dead and it's less than 2 months old. I know the bearings are good in the S/G, I had to replace a post in it about a day or two prior to buying the battery. The brushes did look worn and I cleaned up the communicator with steel wool as to not do any damage to it. I am thinking about checking for corrosion in the V/R contact points and where the wire is soldered to the points armature thingy's. I can run the 106 for an hour and then a day later the battery is dead. I have the shop manual on the V/R and the S/G and hope to get it fixed after I replace the starter solenoid, that thing sounds like its grinding nuts. I just put a new wiring harness in it and was careful to clean all the grounds off very well. Hopefully I can get this thing to run right and charge like it should!!!
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This has been me for the past few weeks with this thing!
 
Scott:
Steel wool?? Probably got moths in the SG now....
Steel wool on a commutator??? Joe Delco is rolling over in his grave..
Steel Wool???? By now the fuzz from that has probably spread throughout the inside of the SG, bridging across all of the windings and commutator segments.....

The normal method for cleaning (not truing) a commutator is a wrap of fine abrasive cloth around it, polishing it by drawing it back and forth and then flushing it with a non-conductive cleaner to remove any of the sanding residue or abrasive, making sure that there was nothing stuck in the separators between each segment....
Truing is done on a lathe set up for it, taking a light skim cut until it's clean and smooth, then using a rotary cutter to undercut the mica insulators separating each segment...
 
Kendell, my microwave has not worked since I cooked a baked potatoe(I wrapped the potatoe in aluminum foil, as to not harm the tator)!
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I guess I am lucky with my cubs starting/charging system. The 128 is running the original S/G, wiring harness(with preventive repairs made). Knock on wood for me. I guess it does help to keep your cub under shelter.
 

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