-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through November 20, 2006
- Thread starter glouderback
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Time to do some bitchin!
Guess what happens when you buy something about half way heavy and some goof uses a 40 year old box with no packing to speak of!
I bought this,
And got this! Grrrrrrrrrrrr
I guess he thought the paper dated from 1987 would get the pieces to me safe and sound!
Guess what happens when you buy something about half way heavy and some goof uses a 40 year old box with no packing to speak of!
I bought this,
And got this! Grrrrrrrrrrrr
I guess he thought the paper dated from 1987 would get the pieces to me safe and sound!
Tipping angle?
While a lot of y'all are contemplating plowing snow I’m still mowing the river bank with my 126 down here in Texas. Every time I mow I wonder how much I can lean the cub before I roll into the drink. Anyone know how much it takes to roll a 126 with a 42” mower?
Weights?
Would adding wheel weights make a substantial difference in the roll angle?
(Any answers will be considered as suggestions and you will not be held at fault if I take a tumble.
)
Dave
While a lot of y'all are contemplating plowing snow I’m still mowing the river bank with my 126 down here in Texas. Every time I mow I wonder how much I can lean the cub before I roll into the drink. Anyone know how much it takes to roll a 126 with a 42” mower?
Weights?
Would adding wheel weights make a substantial difference in the roll angle?
(Any answers will be considered as suggestions and you will not be held at fault if I take a tumble.
Dave
Charlie, was everything still in the box?
Dave, one other thing to keep in mind is that the Kohlers in our Cub Cadets are splash lubricated. Extended operation on a side hill can cause engine damage/failure.
Dave, one other thing to keep in mind is that the Kohlers in our Cub Cadets are splash lubricated. Extended operation on a side hill can cause engine damage/failure.
Nothing in the box Kraig. Cept that Catholic times paper, LOL
Charlie, bummer. So, which shipping company has your parts?
USPS, the plague of the shipping industry!
OH Kraig!
I looked high and low, or i thought I looked high and couldn't find it. But I was messin around out in the garage and looked UP/High and Tadaaaa!
I looked high and low, or i thought I looked high and couldn't find it. But I was messin around out in the garage and looked UP/High and Tadaaaa!
ALSO,
I was asked a while back why the forum didn't give guys that warm and fuzzy feeling ALL the time.
We'll here ya go, this is about as warm & fuzzy as your gonna get here!
I was asked a while back why the forum didn't give guys that warm and fuzzy feeling ALL the time.
We'll here ya go, this is about as warm & fuzzy as your gonna get here!
Charlie, Ooooo, I see a heat shield with my name on it! I have to go on a couple of road trips pretty soon. I have a K301 to deliver to eastern Wisconsin, to get some work done to it and while I'm out that way I have an Original non-trip blade to pick up. Now I need to head south to pick up that heat shield and that other item you have setting around with my name on it. Ummm, you do still have that other item don't you?
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Charlie, I've seen a large UPS sorting center.. someone probabily still trying to figure which conveyor belt assy missing parts
David S,
Yep, wheel weights would help. In fact if you are only 'tipping' to the right, then put the weights on the left wheel or "high side". It's all about center-of-gravity and keeping the weight low. As you know, a major factor would be the size of the DRIVER. It'll tip over with a 250+ lb. driver sooner that it'll tip over with a 80 lb. driver steering it!
RW
Yep, wheel weights would help. In fact if you are only 'tipping' to the right, then put the weights on the left wheel or "high side". It's all about center-of-gravity and keeping the weight low. As you know, a major factor would be the size of the DRIVER. It'll tip over with a 250+ lb. driver sooner that it'll tip over with a 80 lb. driver steering it!
RW
While the paint is drying on the 129, I decided while the front end is off and the engine is easy to get to that I would pull the engine back out and give it a fresh set of rings. The cylinder was within wear limits and and the piston was pretty clean on the donor block, so I gave the cylinder a light honing, buttoned her up and after getting the carburetor and timing dialed in, I turned her loose on the lawn. After about an hour of easy running to break it in and 3 hours of mowing, some of it in pretty thick grass I could say it ran well, but a couple of things bothered me:
1. Although I had no blue smoke, I did have a fair amount of blowby, especially when I got her good and hot from working hard.
2. I used probably close to a pint of oil, and the oil on the dipstick was noticeably darker.
I have mixed feelings about rehoning it, to do it right would mean taking a bit more off the walls and it already has .030 pistons. It also would probably involve doing a complete teardown to avoid any grit or cuttings causing problems later. I would risk not having the rings seat properly if I don't hone it though. Any thoughts guys?
1. Although I had no blue smoke, I did have a fair amount of blowby, especially when I got her good and hot from working hard.
2. I used probably close to a pint of oil, and the oil on the dipstick was noticeably darker.
I have mixed feelings about rehoning it, to do it right would mean taking a bit more off the walls and it already has .030 pistons. It also would probably involve doing a complete teardown to avoid any grit or cuttings causing problems later. I would risk not having the rings seat properly if I don't hone it though. Any thoughts guys?
Yea!
That's the ticket, add weights to one side.
That's the ticket, add weights to one side.
A little more thought-out post on the matter of mowing on a hillside though is in order.
One problem you will have as you near the tipping point is that you will lose traction on your wheels and start slipping sideways and you will fishtail downhill with the back end. On well-gripping ground, you might find yourself in a rollover situation. If you are sensing that you are on too steep a ground and attempt to climb back onto flatter ground, the centrifigal force will tend to exaggerate the imbalance, especially if you are going too fast.
Another problem is dips in the ground, which can upset an already precariously balanced mower, as the weight can suddenly shift. I try to avoid cutting on more than a 15 percent grade, especially if there isn't a safe place to run out to if you are having problems holding the hillside.
Shifting your body to the uphill side can help, but if it feels like it's going to go over, get clear and uphill of it, you don't want 800# of hot metal and gasoline on top of you. Try to mow up and down the hillside if possible, but I know there are plenty of situations this is difficult to do.
One problem you will have as you near the tipping point is that you will lose traction on your wheels and start slipping sideways and you will fishtail downhill with the back end. On well-gripping ground, you might find yourself in a rollover situation. If you are sensing that you are on too steep a ground and attempt to climb back onto flatter ground, the centrifigal force will tend to exaggerate the imbalance, especially if you are going too fast.
Another problem is dips in the ground, which can upset an already precariously balanced mower, as the weight can suddenly shift. I try to avoid cutting on more than a 15 percent grade, especially if there isn't a safe place to run out to if you are having problems holding the hillside.
Shifting your body to the uphill side can help, but if it feels like it's going to go over, get clear and uphill of it, you don't want 800# of hot metal and gasoline on top of you. Try to mow up and down the hillside if possible, but I know there are plenty of situations this is difficult to do.
Ahh Steve,
No more Mr. Frosty!
No more Mr. Frosty!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Could someone post a picture of those heavy-duty mule drive pulleys for use with a tiller? I have a mule drive with 2 different pulleys on it, one looks like 2 halves riveted together, the other looks like one solid piece with a bearing in the middle. Maybe I already have what I need. Thanks!
