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Archive through November 20, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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glouderback

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2005
Messages
82
displayname
G.L.Louderback Jr.
Dennis F.
Back in the early 60's when I first started off in the working world & I realized my father was not as dumb as I had thought he was a few years before I worked in a machine shop that had all the equipment runnning off overhead line shafts. They were however electric motor driven. Dangerous and h-- as there were no belt guards. Pre OSHA!!!!
Here are a few pics of my 14 HP Kohler I am building for my 128 Cub. I guess it will be a 148. I went to the electric start/15amp stator.18 HP cam, bigger intake , shaved head, 30MM carb. Juiced it up a tad.
G.L. from the mts of Va.
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I dropped over to Warren Newton's on Saturday to check out his 4x4 and other toys. All very interesting stuff. The Avery Gator is, I believe, a cub chassis with a Yanmar 2 cyl diesel. He bought several of the little Yanmars from a pal of his who bought a pile of them in salvage. They were used to operate the car lift mechanisms are open-style car haulers. They look like tought little numbers and with very light usage. He has two or three left if anyone is interested. He called it an Avery Gator on the advise of his wife - a delightfully pleasant woman who has no doubt endured more Cub nonsense than she might have bargained for when she married the guy 50 years ago. She was his driver for many years while Warren toured around to trator shows and pulls. Petite thing - drove a one ton dually with a huge gooseneck trailer like a pro, says Warren.

Warren has the usual (read large) collection of cubs. 122's, 149, 782, 582, 1450, etc. Couple of tillers, several Brinly plows, several mower decks of all descriptions, transmissions, engines, etc., all over the place. He had back surgery two years ago and it appears to have done him a great harm - he is in, from what I could tell, constant and significant pain and he is literally unable to bend, walk, and turn as he could do all his life. His cane had become as useful as a spare arm - uses it for everything. It has slowed his passion for cubs and creative tinkering down dramatically. But, that said, he is a wealth of knowledge and ideas and one of the nicest gentlemen I have encountered in this hobby. If you are in the mood to do a fully articulated 4x4, a gator, double rear axle, or any other challenging or oddball project, Warren will have something seriously worthwhile to contribute. He is a remarkable guy and still, despite the huge limitations of his injuries, is out in the shop rebuilding engines and makin' a mess. I developed an instant admiration for the man. When you meet Warren and discover how hard the simplest task is for him, you can't help but be amazed and what he has accomplished. Anyway, just thought I'd share this with you.
 
G.L.L - Your a bit further along on Your K321 than I am on Mine.....It looks GREAT! I didn't "RUSH" Into mine by any stretch of imagination. I bought the engine to rebuild over 2-1/2 yrs ago. Maybe I'll get it together during Christmas. My engine is making a "142"....72 w/14 hp. It's been a "102" for the last 21 yrs. I've got a lot of other work to do to the tractor too. Get it ready for the next 38 yrs. My engine already had the bigger valves & carb., and is getting the same cam. I see We use the same plug wires too!
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Speaking of bigger engines, Are there any major modifications to installing a 10hp in a 71? I would like the engine in it now for my original and I wanted to plow with the 71 so a few more ponies won't hurt. But I don't want ot butcher this thing to get it in there. Would this be a good idea?
 
A 10 hp drops right into the frame and everything bolts up as long as You use a Cub Cadet spec engine. I had to egg-shape one of My starter/generator bracket mounting holes and mount the bracket "upside-down" from the way it fit my old 7 or 8 hp engine. A 10 or 12 hp fit, a 14 & 16 Hp You either have to notch or flare the NF frame rails like IH did on the 147 or install a smaller flywheel & blower housing from a 12 hp on the larger engine.
 
Dennis F,
I have been on mine a year or so. I did the block work & got all the parts and put it on the back burner until now.
I buy my spark plug wire bulk from Summit Racing & make them . Ditto the coil to points wire with new grommet.I had the head glass beaded, can't beat that look!!!
G.L.
 
GL: Looking good, I use Summit Racing a lot for my different projects never which the motor sounds like it will be strong and like the head work!

Digger and the rest of the Guru's: You guys have piqued my interest all the years being around Cub's never knew about the elctrical hydraulic option? Can they be found as a unit lying around? Just curious makes sense and with a little tooling work could be used for other options
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.

Pops
 
Bruce M,
I have 2 147's and both have/had electric lifts. When I installed my snow thrower a couple of years back something caught on something when lifting and I stripped the gears in the lift.

If it was my electric lift I would disassemble it to check bearing item #5. When disassembling the lift make sure you keep the top and bottom caps of the motor together and do not separate them. The motor is item #18, notice they do not illustrate the motor with the caps removed. Its tricky to reassemble the motor. If you remove the top cap the brushes will fall off the armature. To get the cap back on try using two pieces of waxed dental floss. Hold back the brushes while replacing the cap. After the cap in place just pull out the floss.
One of my lifts was sloppy so I needed to shim the gear (item #4) so it seated tighter against the pin (item #3). I made a very thin washer out of a piece of tin and put it between item #6 and item #4. This pushed the gear against the pin a bit more to compensate for pin bushing slop. If you shim your gear make sure you dont shim it too much. Check item #3 for binding after reassembling the main body. It should move smoothly. You might be able to feel the backlash as well. If you do feel backlash then you need a thicker shim.
If you have a lift with a clutch then make sure the clutch is adjusted so it will slip when bottomed out.
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The electric lift is supposed to be used on a very different application. I am in the process of trying to chase down the info. Have some phone numbers to call yet.
A long time cub guy gave me the info to chase down.

Now, has anybody seen an electric lift for a wide frame? If you read the manual closely, it talkes about an electric lift and shows part of it. Have never seen one.
 
Frank,

I'll try to get a picture of mine later this week. It is real close to the NF one, but the mounting eye is rotated 90 deg. Mineis on the shelf if my parts bin, so when I get out to the shop again I will try to get a picture. Maybe someone like Charlie will beat me to it. He seems to have everything right at hand.

John
 
Here is the lift off of a 109.
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Now that I look at it this is the lift with the clutch. Items 20, 30, 29, 28, 27, and 26 are the slip clutch.
 
I'll betcha Kraig will have a better pic tomorrow!
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I was thinkin that the electric lift was an option on all gear drive WF's, QL's included.
 
Hey guys! I'm new to the forum, and want to say that I have learned alot from you all aready.
I'm sure most of you know all the history of you're Cub Cadet from the point in came in to your family. I've known the family history of our's since I was 8 years old. It was my Grandfathers (mom's side) and he purched it new somewhere around 1961-1962(serial # 23231) and was given to my Dad in 1979. So thanks to you guys I have now learned that it is one of the Original Cub Cadet Garden Tractors. Why the short story you ask? Well its to better explain my question.On the hood where the Cub Cadet Logo normaly is, this tractor has a McCormick Farmall logo. I asked my Dad as well as my Mom, and both said that it has always had the McCormick Farmall logo as far back as they could remember. Now with age and weather the McCormick Farmall logo and the white paint are both fading and peeling. Beneath you can see a faint Cub Cadet logo. So whats the scoop? Did the tractor dealer paint over the Cub Cadet logo and put on the McCormick Farmall logo, or are you all gonna kick me out and tell me to go find a differnt club to join?
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No really,have any of you heard of this before and if so what is the scoop?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
P.S. Incase any of you are wondering, even after all the hell I put the Cub through as a kid, Dad still to this day, uses it to plow the garden.
 
Jeff G.
Great story and Welcome to the Forum.
It's always nice to hear about long time Cub owners pasing them down through the years.
You got to post some pics though.
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It's not uncommon for tractors being painted to match what the owners grew up with or used on the farm.
This is what's under the paint.
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Thanks "Digger"!
You have no idea how close it came to getting away from me. Dad retired & moved a few years ago. He had collected so much "to good to throw away" stuff, that he had to get rid of alot of it. The Cub needed so much work and I didnt have any space for it, so we gave it to a friend to take to a tractor aucton. It ended up sitting at his house for a year. Dad with tons of time on his hands and a new garden needing to be plowed,asked if I could retreved it for him. I got Dad some new McCormick Farmall stickers from the local Tractor Supply and took them and the tractor to him.Dad got it back in working order in no time, and then asked if I could find the sticker for the dash. Thats how I found you all. Pictures will be coming soon. I'll try and get some clear pics of whats left of the logs on the hood. I'm also un sure about the headlights. The mounts for them in all the pics here on line that I have seen look differnt, so I'll get clear pics of them too.
Hope every one has a good "Turkey Day"
 
David, thanks, yes we are in spring, it’s OK. This particular little spot, Ulladulla/Mollymook, about 250Km south of Sydney, is very nicely mild in all seasons. Towns as close as 5Km inland & 50Km up/down the coast get much hotter & colder than us. I plan to make the Cub LOOK like going on the beach, but whether I ever take it there is another thing, the regulations might foil me. Probably the main thing to protect might be the clutch. I have been running it around my back yard over the last couple of days, good fun, surprising how well it all went. My main problem with the little Honda, apart from carburettor tune & no electric start, is satisfactorily securing the clutch drive plate to the ‘wrong’ end of the engine, i.e. the normal front/starting/flywheel/magneto end, but I’ll get there. This seems a significant factor to me in searching out a better replacement. At least the Grandchildren (particularly the girls) should have fun around the yard at Christmas.
 
Charlie,
Thanks. I guess I was more concerned with the leverage than the actual weight. The lift seems to operate fine. The motor never develops any heat. I guess I'll just give it a try and play with the spring tension.
Terry,
The lift on my 147 looks like a combination of the first two posted. It looks like the main body of the first pic with the clutch mechanism from the second. I try to stop the lift before it gets to it's end of travel, but sometimes the clutch kicks in to save me from screwing it up. Thanks for the maintenance/rebuild tips.
 
JEFF G. - Welcome to the forum. My Dad bought His first Cub Cadet around the same time as Your Grandfather, '61 or '62. In '65 He traded for a CC 70 to get rid of the $22 (in 1965 dollars) timing belt to drive the spindles on the two-blade deck. The dealer He traded at repainted the old Cub Cadet red & white to cover up the lousy paint job IHC Lousiville put on it at the factory and sold it to a retired local farmer. About 8-9 yrs ago My Dad said He talked to the Guy who bought it and was still running it weekly mowing His lawn. I have Dad's old 70 at home in the shop to be restored this winter. These old Cubbies just never quit!
 
Jeff G., welcome to the forum! One other thing of interest about that logo on the Original Cub Cadet hood, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> had it silk screened on instead of using a decal.
 

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