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Archive through November 19, 2008
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig,
Well we decided to get a jump start on the move.
It's gonna take at least 3 more semi loads to get it all done.
Richard,
We're still a 100+ miles from the northern border.
Well we decided to get a jump start on the move.
It's gonna take at least 3 more semi loads to get it all done.
Richard,
We're still a 100+ miles from the northern border.
Don T.
You buy'um and I'll store'um, not a problem now!
You buy'um and I'll store'um, not a problem now!
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Peter R:
The cardan type u-joints that Dave Kamp used are <u>not</u> steering u-joints. Steering u-joints (with the bolt type clamp) are not designed for high speed and typically do not have needle bearings in them. In addition, the clamp creates an out-of balance condition that will create havoc sooner or later with the pump (if used on the back end, or the engine coupling on the front end. I've got a 149 in the barn now that has the wrong (steering style) u-joints on it from the previous owner. I won't even run it 'till they get changed...
The cardan type u-joints that Dave Kamp used are <u>not</u> steering u-joints. Steering u-joints (with the bolt type clamp) are not designed for high speed and typically do not have needle bearings in them. In addition, the clamp creates an out-of balance condition that will create havoc sooner or later with the pump (if used on the back end, or the engine coupling on the front end. I've got a 149 in the barn now that has the wrong (steering style) u-joints on it from the previous owner. I won't even run it 'till they get changed...
Kendell,
It's called a wood boiler and with the 800+ oak pallets left after the auction. I think I'll be good for a while for cheap heat for the Cubs.
It's called a wood boiler and with the 800+ oak pallets left after the auction. I think I'll be good for a while for cheap heat for the Cubs.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Lonnie-
I'm sorry to hear about your health. Keep your chin up and remember we're all pullin' for you.
Charile-
Nice place.. What are your plans for the "retail space"? Cub Cadet related?
<font size="-2">Oh Kraig! I think it's time for a road trip....Blues Brothers style...but only if I get to be Elroy.</font>
Kendell-
Yes, he is.... LOL!
I'm sorry to hear about your health. Keep your chin up and remember we're all pullin' for you.
Charile-
Nice place.. What are your plans for the "retail space"? Cub Cadet related?
<font size="-2">Oh Kraig! I think it's time for a road trip....Blues Brothers style...but only if I get to be Elroy.</font>
Kendell-
Yes, he is.... LOL!
Out Township ( yea I'm a Twonship Trustee) has a 682 CC. Bought it new and now only has 160 some hours on it. Well the key came up missing and we can't find the spare if there was one. How generic is this key? Tried using a small screwdriver like I have done on my older CC's but it didn't work. Or are we forced to replace the whole switch?
Thanks in advance
David
NW Ohio
Thanks in advance
David
NW Ohio
Out Township ( yea I'm a Township Trustee) has a 682 CC. Bought it new and now only has 160 some hours on it. Well the key came up missing and we can't find the spare if there was one. How generic is this key? Tried using a small screwdriver like I have done on my older CC's but it didn't work. Or are we forced to replace the whole switch?
Thanks in advance
David
NW Ohio
Thanks in advance
David
NW Ohio
prightmyer
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- Peter A. Rightmyer
Kendell; I agree that the s-10 joint is not the ideal fix for the driveline, but at the time I thought, lets try it. Some of my concerns were extra rotating mass, wobble, clearance, and of course grenading!!!! That fix is on one of my dad's cubs and it is still going strong after years of use. Maybe I got lucky. I definately like the idea of upgrading to the flange/rag joint type of mod a lot better.
Don't know how or if this will work out at all but, has any one looked at a small pto shaft universals? Ones that would be on a dump truck or the like. Most of lock on with a keyway and set screw and and balanced rather well. just an idea.
kide
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Joe:
If you read the FAQ, Dave gives the part numbers and sources for the SKF U-Joints - the entire package was about $31.00. I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same type you are referring to. The reason I made the original comment is that I don't think using an unbalanced, non-bearing u-joint is a good idea and could cause damage, especially to the front bearing and seal in the pump.The damage from vibration may not be obvious until it starts leaking Hytran.....
Obviously, all of us have made do with what is at hand on occasion (I made a rag joint using a hole saw and a piece of truck mud flap to get the 129 running one time, but replaced it as soon as I could buy one). My concern is that with the number of newcomers we have reading the forum, they may not always be able to sort good ideas out from potentially harmful ones.....
If you read the FAQ, Dave gives the part numbers and sources for the SKF U-Joints - the entire package was about $31.00. I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same type you are referring to. The reason I made the original comment is that I don't think using an unbalanced, non-bearing u-joint is a good idea and could cause damage, especially to the front bearing and seal in the pump.The damage from vibration may not be obvious until it starts leaking Hytran.....
Obviously, all of us have made do with what is at hand on occasion (I made a rag joint using a hole saw and a piece of truck mud flap to get the 129 running one time, but replaced it as soon as I could buy one). My concern is that with the number of newcomers we have reading the forum, they may not always be able to sort good ideas out from potentially harmful ones.....
So I tried to fiddle with the pulley on the S/G last night and I am still stuck, I looked at shaft on the new s/g and there is a groove in the shaft, so I am assuming the ring around the threads to the old one some how locks the pulley into this groove...
What does it take to get that darn pulley off, or should I have bought a new pulley too... thx
What does it take to get that darn pulley off, or should I have bought a new pulley too... thx
prightmyer
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- Peter A. Rightmyer
One of my mottos is: If I don't keep doing stupid things, how am I going to learn?????? I used to call it "woodchuck engineering", but then I thought it was too degrading to woodchucks.
kide
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Peter:
I'm right there with ya - from the time I bought my 129 in '85, until I found this forum in '99, I was pretty much on my own - the Cub Cadet dealer I used was 30 miles away (an old school IH dealer..). I had supported a late 60's M-F lawn tractor before that and had fabbed everything from deck u-joints (another "timed deck") to a complete push blade (water pipe frame to the back of the tractor, bury the blade in gravel and pull a wheely!!). I've mentioned why I made the comment, no offense intended..
I'm right there with ya - from the time I bought my 129 in '85, until I found this forum in '99, I was pretty much on my own - the Cub Cadet dealer I used was 30 miles away (an old school IH dealer..). I had supported a late 60's M-F lawn tractor before that and had fabbed everything from deck u-joints (another "timed deck") to a complete push blade (water pipe frame to the back of the tractor, bury the blade in gravel and pull a wheely!!). I've mentioned why I made the comment, no offense intended..
prightmyer
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- Peter A. Rightmyer
None taken.
KENDELL - As much as We complain about those rag joints, hardened rollpins, & couplers, etc. It's better than what the competition uses by far. There's a place about 35 miles north of Me who makes lawn & garden equip. They use a driveshaft with two univeral joints & a slip coupling and My Buddy has to replace that shaft at GREAT expense about every 5-6 years. And He puts fewer hours on His tractor than do on the 982.
When I saw Dave's modification I remember thinking the one thing He forgot was a "Transmission Blanket" to contain the shrapnel. I used a worm gear hose clamp to hold in the rollpin in the engine coupler on a 129 for a while...I could feel the difference in the vibration of the driveline from just that small hose clamp.
When I saw Dave's modification I remember thinking the one thing He forgot was a "Transmission Blanket" to contain the shrapnel. I used a worm gear hose clamp to hold in the rollpin in the engine coupler on a 129 for a while...I could feel the difference in the vibration of the driveline from just that small hose clamp.
Afternoon all. well winter has come to Nova Scotia.
I had to turn on the in floor heat in the Cub Shack. I need to repair the steering on the 147 and 46 deg F is to cold for me. It will take about 18 hrs to heat the slab to give me 68 deg Fer in the garage. I put it off because it cost about $27.00 a week to heat the 28x30 shop. But i like going in there when the merk dropes. Have a Great Cub Day . Later Don T
Frank C ( I posted this just for you, i know you want my shop heat LOL)
I had to turn on the in floor heat in the Cub Shack. I need to repair the steering on the 147 and 46 deg F is to cold for me. It will take about 18 hrs to heat the slab to give me 68 deg Fer in the garage. I put it off because it cost about $27.00 a week to heat the 28x30 shop. But i like going in there when the merk dropes. Have a Great Cub Day . Later Don T
Frank C ( I posted this just for you, i know you want my shop heat LOL)
